Hops Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 That's exactly what my car did when I blew up my OEM intercooler. What's the point of going with a FMIC as one of your first mods? There are A LOT of other mods you should be doing before you even need to go FMIC. Buy my cars! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pheonix991 Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Sounds like you jumped timing. Obviously you run your car hard, which means your timing belt has probably stretched more than it should have by 100k, plus, at 110k you're supposed to change it anyway... Because it jumped, you probably have bent valves, bent valves means possibly ruined pistons, which probably means ruined rods. This means $3000 in parts, and you don't want to know how much in labor... I hope it is something better, but, more than likely, not the case. I'm talking from experience with a friend's STI. Take a video, post it on youtube of you trying to start it with the camera pointed at the engine bay. It may be helpful? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hops Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Sounds like a simple vacuum leak. Buy my cars! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 phoenix - My cams all line up on the double notch, but my crank pulley is around 70 degrees off. I am aware that it's an interference motor, but I didn't (and still can't) hear any valves smacking or any other weird noises. I think it is definitely a timing issue. I'll be pulling the front end apart in the next few days to check the actual timing and will let you know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 JDMChizad - any ideas on what kind of vacuum leak? I can't seem to find anything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pheonix991 Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Feel the timing belt, and try to feel if any of the belt's teeth have been smoothed out, or eaten up. If you are lucky like me when my timing jumped, you may not suffer any damage! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 and why a FMIC? My stock TMIC blew apart and the XO2 FMIC was only $300. My friend has a tuned STi and said there's no way I would need a tune for that FMIC, so why not for $300 to replace the OEM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 Feel the timing belt, and try to feel if any of the belt's teeth have been smoothed out, or eaten up. If you are lucky like me when my timing jumped, you may not suffer any damage! I will do that. Gotta move my car into our other garage first. 15 degrees is too damn cold to be working for more than an hour Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 Feel the timing belt, and try to feel if any of the belt's teeth have been smoothed out, or eaten up. If you are lucky like me when my timing jumped, you may not suffer any damage! I read a few forums real quick earlier and they said that it was rare that the timing jumped and even more rare that no damage was done. Again, I couldn't hear any valve/piston pinging, so I think I'm safe.. pray for that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hops Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Needs a tune to properly run a FMIC... If you have checked EVERYWHERE for leaks, then the problem is bigger. A simple gasket to your BOV will make your car run like shit. Buy my cars! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainhook Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 needs a tune to properly run a fmic... +100 . . . gl finding your issue! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 Needs a tune to properly run a FMIC... If you have checked EVERYWHERE for leaks, then the problem is bigger. I simple gasket to your BOV will make your car run like shit. it's welded on. And I'll restate myself.. It ran for 3 weeks just fine, so I can't totally agree with the tune. I agree it should be tuned, but it ran fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
custom_junky Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 running minus tune does not always equal an immediate BANG! sometimes it takes some time...ie three weeks...but it has not been proven that your engine has gone byby...if your crank is 70 degrees off timing you need to readjust your mechanical timing, that might fix your no start issue... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 running minus tune does not always equal an immediate BANG! sometimes it takes some time...ie three weeks...but it has not been proven that your engine has gone byby...if your crank is 70 degrees off timing you need to readjust your mechanical timing, that might fix your no start issue... Right. Will be checking in a few days. Apparently school is more important than a running car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 Would an OEM timing belt suffice if/when I replace it? or would a 'higher performance' belt be suggested? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pheonix991 Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Would an OEM timing belt suffice if/when I replace it? or would a 'higher performance' belt be suggested? If you drive hard, spend the extra money on an upgraded one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 1 tooth = few degrees = sometimes borked motor so how does 70 degrees = maybe just a tooth or two = the engine is probably fine? My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pheonix991 Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 1 tooth = few degrees = sometimes borked motor so how does 70 degrees = maybe just a tooth or two = the engine is probably fine? I was just saying my experience, and if I said it would probably be fine, I'd be kidding myself. My occurance was a special one I guess. Sorry if I misspoke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuckyBob Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 and why a FMIC? My stock TMIC blew apart and the XO2 FMIC was only $300. My friend has a tuned STi and said there's no way I would need a tune for that FMIC, so why not for $300 to replace the OEM to everybody's comments about needing a tune. There's a change in the airflow, so there needs to be a tune or at the absolute least datalogging to verify you aren't doing short/long term damage to your motor. Hate to say it, but don't trust your friend; trust the majority. The SPT intake is also (widely) known to mess with your air/fuel ratio since the MAF sensor is in the middle of bends. Just about everyone I've talked to recommends removing it if you haven't tuned for it. Plus, stock intake is good for quite a bit more power than stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 to everybody's comments about needing a tune. There's a change in the airflow, so there needs to be a tune or at the absolute least datalogging to verify you aren't doing short/long term damage to your motor. Hate to say it, but don't trust your friend; trust the majority. The SPT intake is also (widely) known to mess with your air/fuel ratio since the MAF sensor is in the middle of bends. Just about everyone I've talked to recommends removing it if you haven't tuned for it. Plus, stock intake is good for quite a bit more power than stock. So you think if I return to stock it will run? Seems odd it's not throwing a code if it's an air/fuel problem and lack of tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuckyBob Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 So you think if I return to stock it will run? Seems odd it's not throwing a code if it's an air/fuel problem and lack of tune. No idea . What code reader did you use anyway? I've heard before that the only reliable one is the builtin dash reader. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 Used a Cornwell pocket scanner and one I got at walfart. No codes with either. No CEL either obviously. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuckyBob Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Try the dash reader just to be sure. I've heard even the AccessPorts miss codes from time to time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmoreau Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 Try the dash reader just to be sure. I've heard even the AccessPorts miss codes from time to time. Define dash reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LuckyBob Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Define dash reader http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2304577&postcount=10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.