GTTuner Posted November 17, 2010 Share Posted November 17, 2010 Make sure you clean all the dowels and holes , load them up with anti sieze. Next time it will fall apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted November 17, 2010 Share Posted November 17, 2010 They ought to do that from factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chief_Wiggum Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 Regarding the oil seals, I did not change mine and ended up with a leak on the passengers side. When I popped the axle out to take a look, it turns out I had pushed the round spring off the back of the seal and into the transmission installing the axle. Fortunately, I was able to retrieve it. The seal replacement is quick and easy and only costs about $7.00. Do not pull the side plates off the transmission if you do decide to replace the seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted November 18, 2010 I Donated Share Posted November 18, 2010 I had this problem over the weekend, and yep, the dowel pins were seized in. After trying to drive a screwdriver into the tiny gap with no success, I got my dad to step on the clutch while I hammered it in. That finally did it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 ...I got my dad to step on the clutch while I hammered it in. That finally did it. Smart. I found a very thin putty knife to be ideal for getting it started. Followed by a more rigid putty knife (the kind with the roller cleaner geometry on it), and finally a prybar. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewy612 Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 im having issues with this as well. Mines the 6 speed Transmission and it is currently just hanging off the back of the motor and still wont come free. Ordered some Kroil and gonna soak it and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 You need to stick a pry bar between the block and tranny and try and open it up. The alignment pins are the issue. Use anti-sieze compound on all pins and threads when you go back together. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted November 26, 2014 I Donated Share Posted November 26, 2014 im having issues with this as well. Mines the 6 speed Transmission and it is currently just hanging off the back of the motor and still wont come free. Ordered some Kroil and gonna soak it and see what happens. What do you mean by "hanging off the back"? Is it separated at all? The 6MT has a pull-type clutch, so you need the separate the pressure plate and TOB after you get the bellhousing and engine separated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewy612 Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 You need to stick a pry bar between the block and tranny and try and open it up. The alignment pins are the issue. Use anti-sieze compound on all pins and threads when you go back together. Any suggestions on where to stick a pry bar? top, sides, bottom? i've tried underdogs advice but its as if the thing is still completely bolted on. What do you mean by "hanging off the back"? Is it separated at all? The 6MT has a pull-type clutch, so you need the separate the pressure plate and TOB after you get the bellhousing and engine separated. All I mean that its not bolted or connected to anything anymore. I realize its the alignment pins, and i have had several issues in the past with this car having rust underneath it. It was a snow car for a few years before i got it so I've spent a while now replacing bolts and getting rid of old hardware as i go, this project included. So my plan now is to soak the pins with some good stuff and try and pry again. and specifically good prying places anyone can remember would be a great help. Thanks -Brett Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 You can pry any place you can stick something... May be try a few taps with a hammer around the guide pins. May be try jacking up the tranny a bit past level. The first time out is a PITA. Trust me, it get's easier. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Fighting this issue right now... yeesh it's a nightmare. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travrach Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 You need to get something like this between the bell housing, and tap it with a hammer, start at the top. As the gap gets bigger move up to a bigger screw driver till it pops..crazy stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 My problem was the pesky bolt right below the turbo... as soon as I got it out the tranny popped right open. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artmor79 Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 i'm having this issue now on a 155k all stock legacy, driven in kansas with our salty winter, its a major pita for sure. gonna try that putty knife trick and see how i get this separated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyd Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 I just went through this struggle, found what worked best for me was a flat head then chisel at the very top center of transmission/engine... just go to town. Ugh.. never expected to do this a second time :-( But I got this recently for proper motivation :-) http://www.mikeyd.net/stuff/sti_small.jpg Add one-touch operation (and more) to your stock sunroof Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpushrink1 Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 I was having the same issues and pouring over Forums for solutions. I joined this forum specifically to share. I used a Air Hammer with a spade bit. I didn't have one sharp enough so I got the grinder out and ground one done. After 30 seconds with the air hammer the cases separated. So please share and this will save a ton of headache. Most newer drills have a hammer setting. I did use air, because i had it. But, in a pinch the drill might work as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewy612 Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 haha i'm glad to know i wasn't the only one with this problem haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Old thread. But a bottle jack worked great for me. I just put a piece of 2x4 on the firewall and positioned it so it pushed on the motor. Obviously, make triple sure everything is unbolted! '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travrach Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Old thread. But a bottle jack worked great for me. I just put a piece of 2x4 on the firewall and positioned it so it pushed on the motor. Obviously, make triple sure everything is unbolted! ^That's a good way to damage,rip motor mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpushrink1 Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 That would not have worked for me. Evidently my subby was water damaged and unreported and not salvaged like it should have been. So lucky me I have a water damaged vehicle that I paid full price for. Regardless, the motor mounts would have ripped had I tried that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 ^That's a good way to damage,rip motor mounts. I'd rather ruin 100k motor mounts than a bell housing or shortblock by prying in it. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted April 15, 2016 I Donated Share Posted April 15, 2016 I'd rather ruin 100k motor mounts than a bell housing or shortblock by prying in it. Prying on a shortblock is not going to ruin it. Prying on a bellhousing is also unlikely to do so, unless you really hulk smash it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooNo2 Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 when i did mine i used a small spackling knife and then moved to larger and larger prying tools until it finally popped apart. i cleaned up any corrosion on mating surfaces and put antiseize so it would someday come apart easier afain in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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