ean611 Posted October 27, 2010 Share Posted October 27, 2010 sjwelna, in theory, the loudness kill should work on a stock stereo. Never tried it though. There is no electrical reason it should not work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted November 6, 2010 Author Share Posted November 6, 2010 I just ordered another radio for my car off ebay do do a tutorial on. Any one interested in my old a pre-modded radio? Only a slight cosmetic flaw on the face and the climate control display takes a little while to come up with cold (below 50f or so). It's also pre-modded with an AUX in. Just plug and play, no cutting up the harness! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mars_volta Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 Has anyone attempted this on an essentially stock stereo system yet? I have an 08 limited that I am thinking of just trying the loudness kill by taking out the listed capacitors. If im understanding you correctly I could then run line level inputs to an eq and to amps from there and be good to go? I wasn't planning on doing a big stereo in the lgt but this has my interest peaked. -Steve All I have is an old Fosgate punch 150, crossover, and a 12" sub. The rest is all stock. It rocks pretty good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biodtl Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 I am prepping to do this mod over the weekend and am gathering all of the misc goodies for an install. A couple quick questions for clarification: 1. Decoupling Capacitors: I am using an 'old school' A/D/S 6ch amplifier for my system, it has a 45mV to 1.2V input sensitivity so I don't think the low power RCA inputs tapped off this head unit will be a problem. I safely ran this amp with 2V inputs in my prior car also. I have no idea if this amp would have decoupling capacitors, so I would like to pick some up just in case. Can someone provide me some specs or a link to the type of capacitors I would need? Preferable something that can be sourced at Frys or even Radio Shack. My electronics knowledge is pretty limited so I am not sure what to get. 2. Grounding the RCA leads: I know the outer conductor of the RCA plugs are the ground, so I can just tie/solder the 4 outer RCA conductors together and ground to chassis or radio screw? Thanks for all the research done in this thread, and I will try to take some install pics to share for all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 2. Grouding the RCA leads: I know the outer conductor of the RCA plugs are the ground, so I can just tie/solder the 4 outer RCA conducters together and ground to chassis or radio screw? That's exactly what I did with no problems. I'd also like to know more about the decoupling caps. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biodtl Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 Ah ha! Combing through the thread again, I came across this reply from from utc_pyro to a question from Zimm: If you are using the points directally, maybe. It really depends on the receving equipment. If the amp/linedriver/eq/processor has decoupled inputs, doesnt matter. If it dose not, use a 10uf cap on each signal line. Upon doing a little more research, it seems that the following cap may be appropriate, though I am unsure about that 50v rating. Can anyone confirm? It is the only 10uf cap I could find on Fry's website, though it is likely they would have more choices in store if a different type would be better: http://www.frys.com/product/1710896 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ean611 Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 I have this up and running. All I did was turn the 4 caps to do the loudness disable, then solder in 4 wires plus gnd for front/rear stereo, then ran those to RCA cables. Works like a charm. Just watch out for your routing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biodtl Posted November 26, 2010 Share Posted November 26, 2010 I removed the capacitors easily and soldered the wires on without much problem. But as I was reassembling, the wires got caught on a metal piece I was reattaching and managed to pull 3 of the soldered wires off the board. One was easy to reattach, the other 2 pulled off the entire solder point and left nothing on the board to attach to. I can't seem to reapply solder to the board to get an attachment point, any advice on this? Guessing that I am hosed... A couple pics of the problem: http://i54.tinypic.com/2qk5lr7.jpg Fuzzy pic of solder point attached to end of wire: http://i56.tinypic.com/103gxlu.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ean611 Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 You are not hosed. You just need to trace the PCB to find another point to attach your wire to. There are a few other points, but I'd need to see the schematic to find the. (too early, not enough coffee). (I've repaired worse) Btw, with the one that did not rip off the pad, it looks like cold solder. Make sure you've heated up everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biodtl Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 You are not hosed. You just need to trace the PCB to find another point to attach your wire to. I've been looking through the schematic to determine where else to tap in. Forgive my limited electronics knowledge, but are the suggested points at R237/R238 and R239/R240 before or after those resistors? If before, it seems my only option is to tap directly from pins 14/15 and 22/23 on the IC206 chip itself, any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biodtl Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 I've been looking through the schematic to determine where else to tap in. Forgive my limited electronics knowledge, but are the suggested points at R237/R238 and R239/R240 before or after those resistors? If before, it seems my only option is to tap directly from pins 14/15 and 22/23 on the IC206 chip itself, any thoughts? No thoughts on this? I have time over the next couple of days for another attempt, but was hoping for conformation of another good place to tap in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biodtl Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 For anyone who is interested; I semi-successfully tapped into the points first mentioned in post #25. Semi because I believe I caused a short in the process. I get audio for a short time (30 seconds or so), then the radio resets and gets in a bit of a reset loop. Haven't had a chance to disassemble and check it out again. I tapped in to the points circled in red on the attached picture. I measured about 3.4v coming off these points. It took a little experimentation to figure out which side of the capacitors to use, but I think I figured it out. I guess I should have practiced my soldering skills a bit more before attempting this! I have never soldered anything this small before. http://i52.tinypic.com/1686a9k.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted December 31, 2010 Share Posted December 31, 2010 Any word on the final points you used? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black318i Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Oh, here is a graph of the response: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=87519&d=1279164992 That's at 40, 30, 20, 10, and 5. Ignore the volume levels, I was monkeying with it the entire time to get them about the same. It's the RESPONSE that matters in this graph. Looking at it, it's not as bad as I was expecting. Looking at what people were getting correction wise on 3sixty.2's and such, I think we are bypassing the most of the EQ crap. It also looks smoother than my simulation in post 60 (bottom of page 4). Phase on the other hand is a bit odd (starts a +90 down low), but I don't think there is anything that can be done about that. So this is without loudness kill? do you have a graph with loudness kill? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mars_volta Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 Any updates? Its getting nice out and I've got the bug to do some tinkering... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ean611 Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 see early posts. I have this working, just soldered the RCAs directly to the PCB, as well as removing for capacitors. (The capacitors are for the loudness kill, RCAs, for line level) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mars_volta Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 I have it all working too. I was also curious if UTC ever did any more sweeps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ean611 Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 I did some analysis of the modified 08 Radio I have. Granted, the signal was washed through amps and speakers, but the output appeared to be pretty linear, with the major issue being the transfer function of the car. (mic/RTA analysis) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted April 13, 2011 Author Share Posted April 13, 2011 I have it all working too. I was also curious if UTC ever did any more sweeps. No, I haven't gotten around to it. have another radio to do (the original ones has unrelated issues with the HVAC controls), so I'll do the kill and sweeps on the old one at that point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share Posted January 8, 2012 How to guide on modifying P-204UH for a line level output, without any equalization in the radio. http://i.imgur.com/o4amJ.jpg Remove your radio from your car, or buy a junkyard one (like I did) if you drive a 05-06. http://i.imgur.com/MbZ76.jpg Remove the side brackets. http://i.imgur.com/uOVXm.jpg Flip the radio on it's top. http://i.imgur.com/drITz.jpg Remove the top screw in the center, and loosen all the others on the back. You can fully remove the back if you wish, but you only need to get it back 4mm to get the bottom plate off. http://i.imgur.com/PASJI.jpg Remove the screws on both side of the faceplate. http://i.imgur.com/Uktuy.jpg And the top. http://i.imgur.com/GScjR.jpg Then remove the hazard button. http://i.imgur.com/az3PX.jpg Remove the face plate by poping the plastic tabs. Then remove the top two screws pictured here. http://i.imgur.com/VdKtL.jpg Pop the bottom plate off. Be patient, there are a lot of little tabs and a nub on the backplate. http://i.imgur.com/umdiN.jpg Everything you need to tough is on the bottom of the PCB. The dense area in the center handles volume, tone/fader controls, and prepares the audio to be amplified. We're going to kill the loudness circuit, and tap into the audio stream before it has a chance to hit the pre-amplifer EQ. http://i.imgur.com/cQ74T.jpg Heat up and remove C201, C207, C301, and C307 highlighted in blue. This kills the loudness circuit. Land the wires from your rca cable(s) at the pads highlighted in red. A single ground is located in the aread, and highlighted purple in the picture. http://i.imgur.com/SejdZ.jpg Almost done.... http://i.imgur.com/MRsD6.jpg Fish the riews through the bottom plate, and reassemble. I also intalled a Cache CLOC+D line driver, as my MS-8 audio processes is picky about input level. The extra wires just tap into +12v, Acc, and ground at the input terminals. The odd wire coming out is REMOTE lead from the line driver, turning on the amps and MS8 if it detects any signal. http://i.imgur.com/TMhRP.jpg iSimple gateway (2nd aux in, Bluetooth/iPod/iPhone streaming), and Cache cloc+d velcroed to the bottom of the radio, ready to install. http://i.imgur.com/GmqBT.jpg Install the modded radio in your car, and enjoy Note that the line driver is NOT required for this project, but is a nice addition. This particular model is fairly cheap, fits where the OEM satellite radio module goes, and offers a proper "remote" wire for the amps. It also reduces any odd popping upon statup. Note that with the gain turned all the way down, it drive the MS-8 at the perfict level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ean611 Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Great write up. One note for those attempting this: Those are very small parts you need to remove. I would suggest using two soldering irons for the removal. For those who haven't worked with two, you use the irons to grab each side of the offending part, and can either turn or lift it away. This is made easier if you can use high temp RoHS irons (740-800 degrees F). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcpigeon Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 I'm still working up the nerve to do this, while acquiring all my other components for my build. I've got a couple questions for the P-204UH. -After removing the Caps highlighted in blue, does anything happen if you (or a passenger) tries to engage the SRS? -Any idea how much coloration the pre-amp section introduces (in case I'm too much of a coward to solder the RCA connections) - If I do this mod before getting my amps and front stage ready for install, everything should still work, right? We're just tapping the signal, but not actually cutting it off from the HU's amp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcpigeon Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Can anybody confirm that the P-204UH unit will still function after this mod and then hitting the SRS button (most likely on accident)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 Can anybody confirm that the P-204UH unit will still function after this mod and then hitting the SRS button (most likely on accident)? SRS as in the EQ thing not airbags right? Yes, it still works it's a separate chip before it gets to the one involved in the mod. The amp-pre-eq does a lot of messing with the signal. An MS-8/cleansweep/3sixty.2 can actually fix that part though if you don't want to soilder in RCA cables. Heck, you could mod the radio with a pocket knife in that case (just cut two traces). The onbord amp still works after this mod, so you can do it before you get the rest installed. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stalintc Posted March 17, 2012 Share Posted March 17, 2012 Thank you very much utc_pyro. I wish I had the info you do for the 2010 Nav HU... I appreciate good objective threads like this!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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