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Modifying OEM head unit for un-eq’d line out


utc_pyro

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I got everything ready, but priorities shifted (AKA: I need to actually have my car move under its own power again before I can look at it).

Maybe I can get to it this weekend, if dr_sharp or you don’t get to it first? I'm not ready to test the actual loudness kill yet though, I want to be ready to install everything. Testing with loudness on will help verify my pspice of the kill though.

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Points work, yes. I tested that and the voltage level already. It's ~2Vrms at "40", so it will just depend on your amp if that's loud enough. You can get a line driver to bump the level up more, if needed.
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Points work, yes. I tested that and the voltage level already. It's ~2Vrms at "40", so it will just depend on your amp if that's loud enough. You can get a line driver to bump the level up more, if needed.

 

so, in a nut shell, you successfully did it?

 

Sorry to ask after what you said, just want to be sure :)

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We still would need some caps on the lines to decouple them though, yes?

 

Also, I am wondering where is best to route the grounds for the RCA's? I would hate to go through all this just to introduce alternator whine.

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so, in a nut shell, you successfully did it?

 

I'd say we are 75% there. Just need to do the loudness kill ;)

 

We still would need some caps on the lines to decouple them though, yes?

 

If you are using the points directally, maybe. It really depends on the receving equipment. If the amp/linedriver/eq/processor has decoupled inputs, doesnt matter. If it dose not, use a 10uf cap on each signal line.

 

Also, I am wondering where is best to route the grounds for the RCA's? I would hate to go through all this just to introduce alternator whine.

 

I used ground points near were I pulled off the signal. I'll need to take a look to see how to describe them.... I know for sure there are some from de-poped capacitors in the general area.

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You wouldn't happen to know if a JL e1400d amp would have decoupled inputs, would you? I know it does have balanced differential inputs. I am thinking about using the points directly. a 2Vrms signal should be enough to drive my sub amp. Not 100% set though.

 

Let me know what you find for the grounds. I have been kind thinking about either having simple RCA pigtails coming out of the HU or maybe get some bulkhead mount RCA's and install them on the chassis. Although this may not be ideal as that would ground the shield to the chassis.

 

Thanks again for your efforts on this. Now I just need to get up the courage to tear the HU open and got to town with the soldering iron. :p

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Ground those RCAs! Tons of feedback with them grounded! haha... I kinda winged it and hoped I wouldn't have to. I'll probably solder all 4 ground points together and run 1 wire to a ground point on the stereo. I may even just solder it to the chassis so I don't have to find a ground point.
lol
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I'm still very interested in the loundess kill...have you had any time to work on that?

 

I want to get the sound system installed before I do it. I plan on using this radio in the car as is for a little while before I do the install. I've spent too much money keeping the car running and going stage 2 :rolleyes:.

 

Though some one just out of the blue offered to buy my old car, and the woofer I've been wanting (IDQ10 V2 for a wicked CAS box) has come available, so that may happen sooner then later.

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Navigation unit goes straight into (well, almost) the output amplifier stage. If you want a point to pick that up, I can provide the points. You cannot get usable music from the same point, but it's just a matter of mixing into your main stream or adding another small amp (ie those $15 mini amps on ebay) to power a "navigation" speaker.
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I had bad alternator noise before I grounded the rca lines at the head unit. Afterwards, no alternator noise.

 

There is some noise when I turn the volume all the way down, though. It is 'muffled' music that has some crackling in the background. This only occurs when I set the volume to "0" and is barely audible. If the car is on, you actually have to put your ear up to a tweeter to hear it because it is so quiet relative to the engine idle noise. Driving down the road, you wouldn't be able to hear it at all.

lol
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  • 4 weeks later...

BUMP!!!

 

utc_pyro, How's the car?

 

Just soldered wires onto the contact points on post 27 on a 2008 radio. Going to put this in my gf's 2005 Wagon with an amp and see how this works. I'll report back with results.

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Ok, installed 4 channel amp in 05 Wagon (with 2008 radio).

 

It's not bad, but at low volume, the loudness sucks pretty bad. Due to signal volume, It could definitely use a line driver.

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BUMP!!!

 

utc_pyro, How's the car?

 

It lives, I think I got all the issues sorted out. Not sure how the "Stage II" tune is working on it though, I think it's a little aggressive on the low load boost. That may be killing 5eats, but that's a story for another thread...

 

 

 

Anyway, I agree on the line driver. I need to get off my rear and get this board converted into one. I still have that duel rail 12V dc-dc converter on my desk, along with the '05 5EAT TCU I've been tinkering with (sorry for being slow on that one too!). I just need to swap the caps to handle higher voltages and I can turn those boards I made into a nice LOC.

 

Oh, here is a graph of the response:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=87519&d=1279164992

 

That's at 40, 30, 20, 10, and 5. Ignore the volume levels, I was monkeying with it the entire time to get them about the same. It's the RESPONSE that matters in this graph.

 

Looking at it, it's not as bad as I was expecting. Looking at what people were getting correction wise on 3sixty.2's and such, I think we are bypassing the most of the EQ crap. It also looks smoother than my simulation in post 60 (bottom of page 4).

 

Phase on the other hand is a bit odd (starts a +90 down low), but I don't think there is anything that can be done about that.

loudness_graph.jpg.e7175cebcbb128e2fbc0244f90db3b6a.jpg

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Whats the deal with red and green? The others are self explanatory...

 

Green is 40 (max volume), Red is 30. Ignore how close they are, I was messing with the gains to get a more accurate idea of the relative frequency response.

 

Would a graph were I dont mess with it be more helpful? Everything is still hooked up, I just need to take another hour to do the sweeps.

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utc_pyro, I'm looking forward to your work. I just hooked up a Kenwood KSC-SW1 I had laying around to compliment the Rockford Type RF X4.c amp in the 05 Wagon.

 

Results are nice so far, but getting rid of the loudness and having a line driver, as the X4.c has all gains at max, would be awesome.

 

Great work so far.

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I'll continue to support the loudness kill, but I think I'm going to leave the loudness in the unit that will go into my car. I actually like a mild loudness correction, and this one isnt that bad.

 

I need to get a second radio to work with, if any one can find one let me know. That or one of you can try it. You just need a sharp knife and to cut 4 traces for the loudness kill. Or if you want it reversabel, you just unsolder four capacitors.

 

I tried to make some sweeps with constant volume, but there is something wrong with my test setup. It was showing almost flat loudness even at "10" on the volume setting.:iam:

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