quick4dr Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 I was just having my front brakes warranty replaced at ramsey subaru, (bought an 05 LGT with warped fron rotors) They replaced them for free. they have a package 6 oil changes for $100.00 not bad or like 250 for 6 synthetic changes. The service manager said subaru doesnt recommend synthetic for their cars. Is this true? can synthetic do any damage? Im running havoline 5w30 synthetic, get it free at work. I plan on going to royal purple next change. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maddie08 Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 The engines aren't made to the spec of requiring synthetic... won't really hurt, but won't help. With the turbo sharing the oil, I'd still reccomend changing the oil at the regular dinojuice interval if you go with the RP. My brother uses RP in his STi and swears by it, I just go with the 1/2 and 1/2 that has always been in my LGT from the getgo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BagheeraLGT Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 I just picked up some Mobil 1 10-30. I wasnt sure rly if that or 5-30 would be better. Im prolly gonna change it this week. Thoughts on 10-30 anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterJMC Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 I tried synthetic, no good, it burned oil. Switched to 5w-30 Pennziol and I don't burn a drop. People will agree and disagree that synthetic should be used or not be used. Try it out and if it works for you use it, if it doesn't switch it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhig Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 With older subies I know they recommended against using synthetic. Anything newer can run synthetic, I would say most on this forum use synthetic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ABP05GT Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 Royal Purple doesn't have enough anti-foaming agents. Heck they won't even release their viscosity publicly. Talked to the amsoil guys and they agreed RP=junk, trumped up claims and nothing more. I run German Castrol in Leggy and Valvoline VR1 racing oil in my LS7 camaro. But i am giving real consideration to running an amsoil product. But everyone has their preferences on what they like, so to each his own..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polo08816 Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 I use M1 0w-40. People have said that an M1 is on the thin side so I figured a 40 would shear down to a 30 worst case scenario. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05gtlimited300 Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 I tried synthetic, no good, it burned oil. Switched to 5w-30 Pennziol and I don't burn a drop. People will agree and disagree that synthetic should be used or not be used. Try it out and if it works for you use it, if it doesn't switch it. Really? I used to run conventional Penziol (either 5w30 or 10w30) and i use to burn at least a quart every change so switched to GTX and never have add a drop... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BagheeraLGT Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 I use M1 0w-40. People have said that an M1 is on the thin side so I figured a 40 would shear down to a 30 worst case scenario. My pops likes to run SAE 10-40 (or 5-40) cant rly rmember on his 02 OBW and 06 Highlander in the winters cause of the cold weather (ny winters). Is this good logic if he usually runs 10-30 in the warmer months- would X-40 be better for cold weather? The oil i bought for him once (cant remember exactly) X-40 said diesel on it. Is this bad for regular engines? And as a general question if M1 is thin then 40 would be better to run than 30 , as 40 is thicker than 30. So as it shears down it would do so to a more universal viscosity? In other words 40 is thicker than 30? What is the difference between 5-30 and 10-30? Is it rly a moot difference for our purposes? Would i be better off to return my 10-30 M1 or is it good to run? Im pretty much a n00b when it comes to engine longevity and how motor oil can effect that. Im just looking to keep my car running for a while. Note, i enjoy spirited driving and often have my GT in the 3-5K rpm range. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 Holy moly...where did this thread come from, and where is rao? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackfang Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 I was just having my front brakes warranty replaced at ramsey subaru, (bought an 05 LGT with warped fron rotors) They replaced them for free. they have a package 6 oil changes for $100.00 not bad or like 250 for 6 synthetic changes. The service manager said subaru doesnt recommend synthetic for their cars. Is this true? can synthetic do any damage? Im running havoline 5w30 synthetic, get it free at work. I plan on going to royal purple next change. Any thoughts? not another comment about a Service Writer saying Subaru doesn't recommend synthetic oil? Service manager is wrong and doesn't know what the #### he is talking about. [SIZE=1][URL="http://public.fotki.com/blackfang/"]Pics[/URL] [B]08 KawasakiZZR 600- exhaust and other mods 98 Camaro Z/28 HT- some mods......street/strip car 07 Legacy 2.5i- SPT exhaust...daily driver[/B][/SIZE] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 I have read bad things about using synthetic oil in a Subaru. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ABP05GT Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles#faq_motor_oil_basics Yeah its a long technical article but it will answer ANY AND ALL questions you ever have about oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
__raj Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 Change with what oil feels best to you. More important than the type of oil is actually getting it changed on a timely basis(every 3750 miles). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05pearl Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
issai Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 J&J Baby Oil. If it's good for my legs, it must be bangin' for the Leggy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pillboy Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Another oil thread makes the baby Jesus weep. It is still ugly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rnstein69 Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3372/3591659494_5c03c6b3ff.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 3750 mile oil changes and it won't make a damn difference what you use unless you are anal retentive like some of us here. Havoline is just fine, synthetic is just fine to use in a Subaru. The only reason SOA doesn't supposebly recommend it is because synthetic may be burned off by the car and people never check their oil level between changes. Guess what happens when it gets below the Low mark. There is no consensus on which oil gets consumed and which doesn't. Someone here mentioned they don't burn a drop of Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. Well, I run 10w30 and go through half a quart or more in 3500 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarryN Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 I use Mobil 1 5w-30 Fully Synthetic. So far, have not burned a single drop of oil. I am also using the M1-108 Mobil 1 Oil Filter. My car loves it and is happy as a clam. So whoever says Mobil 1 burns engines... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BagheeraLGT Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Well i did my first oil change on my leggy. Filled her up with M1 10-30 synthetic. Oil changes on these beat the shat out of changing my tacoma. Although, i didnt need 4x4 blocks to get some ground clearance, not having to mess with a full skid plate rly makes the experience alot easier. not to mention the oil filter is in plain sight on these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 So whoever says Mobil 1 burns engines... Here we go ... Nobody seriously claimed it will kill an engine. The point is you are paying more money for less wear protection. To each their own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 3750 mile oil changes and it won't make a damn difference what you use unless you are anal retentive like some of us here. A shitty 5w30 dino (like Mobil Clean) degrades into 5w20 within few hundred miles. Most of your OCI ends up being on such a thin oil. But I guess it makes no difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 I'll say this: 3750 miles on a dino oil and your banjo filter is extremely unlikely to clog up from sludged oil during the first 60-90k miles of the car. But I wouldn't want to run any old dino oil in this car indefinitely, even stock. To Unclemat's point, they don't hold up....even if in their sheared state they still protect well, I personally don't want to risk it. There are non-synthetic engine oils that will hold up just fine with that interval. For the most part, they are called HDEOs or heavy duty engine oils. There are also regular SM-rated oils that will hold up. I understand some people feel differently and that's fine. Most engines WILL run just fine till 150k and beyond on dino changed out every 3500 miles. Choose the right oil and remove the chance of a sheared-lubrication related failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColoradoLegacy Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 Google "Bob is the Oil Guy" and do some digging on their forums. You'll find a TON of information on Used Oil Analysis (UOA), Virgin Oil Analysis (VOA) as well as additive packages and shearing properties for various oils. A TON of *real* useful information for making an informed decision on oils and oil filters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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