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HELP! Need new replacement for H7 low beams ASAP


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Through a mistake with replacement xenon bulbes that totally sucked I want to put in my stock bulbs but I scratched one of my factory bulbs. They are like $24 to buy at the factory PER BULB!! What is an alternative to these bulbs that are just as bright or brighter...ASAP thankyou
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I thought you"re running something YELLOW

 

yea, I am, but he wanted something more priced to stock bulbs.. my bulbs are close to half the price of an HID kit...

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v205/xenonk2828/GT-Car/group1.jpg

 

Low Beams:

Click here to purchase

http://www.eautoworks.com/productimages/ionPIAAh7.jpg

 

Fogs:

Click here to purchase

http://www.eautoworks.com/productimages/piaaYellowH3Bulb_sm.jpg

 

Not pictured but my High Beams are:

click here to purchase

http://store1.yimg.com/I/rodi_1838_31249424

 

Keefe

Keefe
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So are the 70 watt bulb REALLY BRIGHT? or what...are they white and also how about the silvanas? Are the just whiter or do they cast a longer beam or what.

 

I stuck with PIAA because they dont draw super high wattages like some cheaper ricer bulbs.. Most PIAA bulbs are 55 to 65watts (which is really good for OEM wiring)..

 

On my WRX, I got fed up with ricer lights (80 watt and up) and end up buying up buying an HID kit (35watt draw) because the ricer lights melted my harnesses.. it's a pain in the butt to keep replacing 9007 harnesses, even with upgraded wires and harnesses. The problem is that Subarus are ground switched, so your typical Plug-N-Play upgraded headlight harness wires that handle higher wattages wont work.

 

I think the Headlight harnesses wires are all 12 AWG thick, so dont go any higher than 75 watt draw (same for the fogs too.. no more than 75 watts) or expect to have something burning and melting under your hood. Trust me, it's not fun and it's not fun recrimping harnesses.

 

Keefe

Keefe
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http://autolamps-online.com/halogen/bvcentre.htm

 

These are so good I'm not going to bother fitting a HID kit, I do a LOT of early/late driving and have been very impressed with the performance. :)

 

how are the lumens compared to the stock lights

 

 

These were the crappy bulbs I bought...so what are better then these...BTW dummy me, when I took out one of the factory lights it fell in the engine compartment scratching the crap out of it so had to replace it anyways. But at the moment I am running stock lights because I can find anything so far that are better other then HID kits which are $$$

 

I mean there are so many crappy wana be lights out there just like the ones I bought...ebay is filled with them. SO i need proof of a proper light to buy...because seeing is believing. The people that I bought mine from said they were brighter and the pictures proved it too, but they were showing the brights in the photo and they don't go through a filter, but lows and fogs do and so they turned out really dim when I pluged them into my car.

bulb.jpg.80e3c5af0a0f37347c2cf3e85ceeffb8.jpg

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I posted this in another thread, but I just got all the parts I'll need for real HID's for $237 including all shipping. This is for new Matsushita ballasts (OEM for many Nissan/Infiniti HID setups), new Philips D2S bulbs (OEM for most HID equipped cars) and a couple machined H7 adapter rings. At that price there is almost no point to go with the poser bulbs, especially pricey brand name bulbs like PIAA. I admit to currently running a set of Nokya 70w bulbs. I have them wired up with heavy duty harnesses and relays, so that will make my HID install pretty much a straightforward affair.
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PIAA have been known to have a short life from what I have read on a few forums.

 

The Philips Halogens in the link are 4000k, my previous Philips HID kit was 4100k, so they are pretty good.

 

The legacy sold in Euroland has Philips halogens as standard, Philips are OEM fit for most Euro cars and have a very good reputation for aftermarket lamps.

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Arent H7s same as 9005? If so, 9011 HIR will go in.....same watts, +60% lumens or something like that? See the thread on subaru.org.....

jp

 

H7 resembles to H1 and H3 bases, 9005 is an L-shaped base. H7 and 9005 are high beam application bulbs (see Audi cars). H7 is also used in low beams (such as a Mini non-HID and our cars as well).

 

Keefe

Keefe
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PIAA have been known to have a short life from what I have read on a few forums.

 

The Philips Halogens in the link are 4000k, my previous Philips HID kit was 4100k, so they are pretty good.

 

The legacy sold in Euroland has Philips halogens as standard, Philips are OEM fit for most Euro cars and have a very good reputation for aftermarket lamps.

 

My cousin's PIAA on his Accord has lasted the last 8 years and still going (knock on wood).. All the PIAA bulbs that I have in the past lasted soo long (2+ years or so). I think people are getting short life span is due to touching the bulb or getting some kind of oil on the glass of the bulb during installation(very bad). That's the only thing I can think of in the process because when I install PIAA 168-type wedge bulbs, I would have to touch the glass of the bulb (gloves or no gloves), the bulb would end up blowing around under 2 years or so.

 

The older PIAAs were actually painted or coated lens.. they changed their bulb manufacturing by incorporating the actual tinting of the lens when forming the bulb. That's why most of their bulbs now dont fade or "burn off" the coating or paint.

 

I use to run CATZ HIDs (which also used the same Matsushita ballasts) and they were very nice. It's too bad that FSHTA started that stupid ban of sale of HIDs and thus putting CATZ out of business eventually. I love all of the CATZ lighting (probably more expensive than PIAA lighting products by far as I am only the guy crazy enough to buy 2 sets of HIDs, 2 sets of their SR auxilary lights, 4 sets of $275/pair of driving lights). Night rally anyone?

 

Keefe

Keefe
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Man after this stupid experience with these HID wanabees I replaced my factory bulbs and cut my losses....Ill save for a decent HID kit for the car.

 

I use to think that way as well when I had my WRX. Blowing out a 9007 bulb is worse (bugeye) because high beam and low beam are in one bulb (sux). That's when I looked into HIDs when those stupid cheaper ricers lights only last like 2 to 3 months max.

 

But since my experience with HID in the rain and heavy fog, I understood that a 4300k HID kit in the heavy fog and heavy rain was not cutting it (too much glare by far) and it was hard to drive home in those kinds of conditions for 2 hour trips.. so with that said, I decided to go back to halogen instead where I can get a better color choice in the bulbs (hence I went with Crystal ion PIAAs).

 

I think currently, http://www.xenonfactory.com is the only one that is selling a 3000k HID kit (yellow) right now at $585 in H7 application. The PIAAs I have right now are rated at 2500k (super piss-gold yellow and still bright). If an HID kit last on average of 2000 working hours (and the life shortens dramatically if you turn them on and off a lot on the short night drives) at $600, and PIAA Halogens can take the abuse of on-off flickering and last just as long as much as 1000 hours for @ $100, then I will go with PIAA bulbs for now. Where I live, cops are anal (as there are way too many ricers around here) about HID kits and they will make you prove that the HID kit is legal. They will pull you over for any reason. So in my case, I'll just stick with Halogens as there are no ballasts for the cops to even look at, and my bulbs are not blue :D

 

Keefe

Keefe
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So are the 70 watt bulb REALLY BRIGHT? or what...are they white and also how about the silvanas? Are the just whiter or do they cast a longer beam or what.

 

you can see a difference against the stock Sylvania bulb using the Silverstars or Streetglow ones. 10% brighter is what I can tell.. Many here run a set of Silverstars. Typically it's because the light itself is whiter. The only way you can cast a longer beam is by re-aiming the housing or changing the reflector in the housing. Intensity of the light (brighter/whiter) will be based on the bulb's output and amount of lumens/candlepower of the light as well as the Kelvin (frequency range) of light that the bulb produce.

 

Wattage doesnt neccessarily mean the light is brighter. It only means it draws more power to create more light (think of it as throwing lots of wood in a fire to create a big bonfire instead where HID kits are like throwing sticks "dynamite" in a small fire).

 

Keefe

Keefe
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