spect2k Posted August 3, 2009 Author Share Posted August 3, 2009 Jurz and hutru01 - too late or not, you guys are definitely correct about needing the amp. It's good to get a bit more technical information as to why, but the amp is on it's way! Now I'm trying to figure out where to put it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JURZ Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 I would not recommend putting it under a seat. You want your amp to have a lot of exposure to air so that it can cool off. I'm not sure what amp you went with, but more than likely it has metal fins that are used to distribute the heat away from the internals. Just be sure that the fins are unobstructed and you should be all set. If it's possible, try mounting it to the backseat. It will save you a lot of space in the trunk. Just out of curiosity how are you hooking the amp up to the stock radio? Are you using a clean sweep or something along those lines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hutru01 Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Jurz and hutru01 - too late or not, you guys are definitely correct about needing the amp. It's good to get a bit more technical information as to why, but the amp is on it's way! Now I'm trying to figure out where to put it! You could always build an amp rack in the spare tire well. I used 3/4 MDF and some black spray paint. For example: http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh277/basebalz13/Matt%20Hutru/40600001.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JURZ Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 I would NOT recommend a design like that for several reasons: 1. There isn't enough space for the amps to breathe properly. Even in CT our summer's can get pretty hot. Try not to suffocate them. 2. The design makes it very difficult to use your spare. You never know when you might need to use it. Especially if it's raining, snowing, or like this past weekend tornado-ing! 3. Liquids collect at the lowest point in the vehicle. You don't want any liquids to pass by your amp and its connections on the way to the bottom of the spare well. 4. Amps are not designed to physically carry loads on top of them. To me installing a system is an investment, so protect it! Not to mention it takes a lot of time to install all of the necessary components for it to work correctly. My philosophy is, try to prevent problems before they occur because not only are they a PITA to fix, they can be a lot of $$ to replace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiniStiGuy Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 mount the amp to the top section of the trunk. It will be up out of the way and its steel up there so its more than sturdy enough for it. OEM HID's Rx330 Retro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hutru01 Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 I would NOT recommend a design like that for several reasons: 1. There isn't enough space for the amps to breathe properly. Even in CT our summer's can get pretty hot. Try not to suffocate them.I have a cover with vents and I have no problem with air space. 2. The design makes it very difficult to use your spare. You never know when you might need to use it. Especially if it's raining, snowing, or like this past weekend tornado-ing!I had no problem changing a flat tire a couple of weeks ago. 3. Liquids collect at the lowest point in the vehicle. You don't want any liquids to pass by your amp and its connections on the way to the bottom of the spare well.This is my second Legacy GT, second amp rack, never had this sort of problem before. 4. Amps are not designed to physically carry loads on top of them.I carry loads with no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imrac Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 +1 For amp rack above spare. I used a 1/4 PVC pegboard with 1x3 hard oak frame (Left over from house project). Allows the amp to breath from the bottom, I still need to add some vents over the top though. Using the spare isn't all that hard, I tested it took maybe 3 minutes longer. I don't think I would even use my spare anyway, I have roadside from Subaru and my insurance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiniStiGuy Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 I would only use my spare if I 100% was in a hurry and in absolutely had to. Plus its smaller than my 18's so driving on it would be only to the nearest tire shop anyways. OEM HID's Rx330 Retro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hutru01 Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 You can still get the spare out by lifting the amp rack. Its not rocket science. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digi Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Not sure what you were expecting spect2k, but the setup is not going to be some amazing audiophile in car install. I still think its better than the stock speakers but the improvement isn't going to revolutionize your in car audio - I certainly hope you understood that going into this. Like I said in my post; better than stock but not as good as an amplified setup -that's comparing apples and oranges, particularly when considering the level of complication and money required to get an aftermarket amp into our cars. FWIW - I think having SRS on destroys any fidelity gain you experience with the aftermarket speakers on. It sounds artificial, out of phase, and boomy. JURZ - the Infinity componets are 2 ohms, that is completely safe the the electronics in our deck. Our decks should be outputting around 15 watts with these components up front; which is pretty close to an aftermarket stereo - I assume wouldn't have the same view about aftermarket speakers on an aftermarket deck. While the quality of the stock amp isn't high, the output rate should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiniStiGuy Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 SRS sounds a sh!t ton better than my 05 radio does. OEM HID's Rx330 Retro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hutru01 Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 JURZ - the Infinity componets are 2 ohms, that is completely safe the the electronics in our deck. Our decks should be outputting around 15 watts with these components up front; which is pretty close to an aftermarket stereo - I assume wouldn't have the same view about aftermarket speakers on an aftermarket deck. While the quality of the stock amp isn't high, the output rate should be fine. That would depend on the aftermarket deck also. RMS wise, yes most aftermarket decks are putting out 20-30 per channel. But some really nice decks (Alpine, Eclipse, etc) include really nice full band equalizers which helps tremendously. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lie495s14 Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 it sure lacks the bass, but i notice that our OE system sounds pretty good with quality CDs(try it). for ppl on budget, a good sub is all you need Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spect2k Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share Posted August 4, 2009 Just out of curiosity how are you hooking the amp up to the stock radio? Are you using a clean sweep or something along those lines? I'm glad you brought this up. Since I am connecting the amp to the stock headunit, I am still undecided between the cleansweep and the line out converter. LOC is $40 but won't help the system out, it is still limited by the HU's capabilities Cleansweep is super nice, but it would run about $250. I've never seen a cleansweep in person and would love to get some feedback on that. It is quite a bit more expensive, is it worth the extra $$?? (considering my setup of course). I'm not sure that I have a great understanding of it - I'd love to get some feedback on the LOC vs. Cleansweep! Thanks! FYI - I am getting the Alpine MRP-F300 amplifier, but still no sub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JURZ Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 Spect2k, I have not had any experience with Cleansweep's yet...but after reading about them I would probably choose a cleansweep-like product over a LOC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCSLegacy Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 I would definitely recommend a product like the clean sweep. Sure the line out converter will give you the RCAs you need for a pre-amp, but you still need something to clean up the signal and accommodate for the limitations of an OE headunit. I was reading an article about aftermarket vs. OE headunits and they said a lot of companies that make these OE headunits cut a lot of the lower end out when the volume is high to protect the stock speakers and the internal amp in the headunit. A cleansweep will be able to process the signal you're getting from the HU and beef it up a little bit before it goes to an amp, so you get aftermarket performance from a stock HU. It was easy for me to replace the HU in my 98, but that's because they didn't integrate all the creative lines, trip computers, climate controls, and all that jazz into the stock HU. It seems like nowadays an aftermarket stereo looks way out of place in the nicer cars such as the Legacys where the designers try to match lines all the way from the top of the dash down through the climate controls and shifter. You'll get good if not better sound than an aftermarket HU, through the cleansweep while still maintaining a nice dash and no eyesores of mismatching colors on an aftermarket HU (also easy for me since all my dash light are burned out... :-( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spect2k Posted August 5, 2009 Author Share Posted August 5, 2009 Thanks for the feedback guys. Not that they are an end-all when it comes to audio systems, but I decided to ask crutchfield considering I've purchased most of my system thus far through them. I asked him whether he recommends the cleansweep (or similar) or a line out converter with my exact system and setup. Here is his response: "I am not showing that the factory stereo is equalizing or suppressing any frequencies so no special sound processor is needed. I would pick up a simple line output converter though. It will allow you to get a cleaner transfer of signal to the Alpine amp using RCA cables" I sometimes am suspicious that they would be trying to make the extra buck, but they are recommending a $20 item over a $300. What do you guys think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imrac Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 Get the 20 dollar item, if you don't like it upgrade, no harm no foul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JURZ Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 What Imrac said... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hutru01 Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 spect2k: If you go with an LOC, get a Peripheral one like these: http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&q=peripheral+line+output+converter&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=_dZ6StKcOdKOtge9h-TkAQ&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=4 I have great results running my factory deck through the LOC to the AUX of my aftermarket deck as a 6 disc cd changer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spect2k Posted August 6, 2009 Author Share Posted August 6, 2009 Sounds like a plan! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spect2k Posted August 7, 2009 Author Share Posted August 7, 2009 As I am getting the equipment together for this install, I've been doing a lot of research and keep coming across something called 4 channel interconnects. I'm not quite sure what these are... So far I have the amp, a scosche efx 8 gauge amp wiring kit (crutchfield), 14 awg speaker wire, a 4 channel line out converter. Is that correct or do I also need the 4 channel interconnects (what is this by the way?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hutru01 Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 I am not familiar with what this 4 channel interconnects is referring to, but all you need is a 4 channel LOC so that you can run front and rear RCAs to the 4 channel amp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hutru01 Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 Your speaker outputs from your factory deck with be wired straight in to the line out converter. 8 total connections (FrontRight+, FrontRight-, FrontLeft+, FrontLeft-, RearRight+, RearRight-, RearLeft+, RearLeft-). Set of RCAs to the front, Set of RCAs to the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spect2k Posted August 10, 2009 Author Share Posted August 10, 2009 Update: So I completed the install today with the Alpine MRP-F300 4-channel amp, a line out converter, 16 AWG speaker wire, and an 8 gauge amp wiring kit - all connected with the infinity reference 6020cs components in the front and infinity reference 6022si coax in the rear. The install went very smoothly as I had someone help me (actually he did most of the work, especially the more difficult parts). First impressions...WOW! What a difference! This is not in the same ballpark as simply replacing the speakers - I feel like I have a whole new audio system in there. I know I know, you all told me so. Well you were right. The sound quality, clarity, volume, everything is much much improved. I am thrilled with this purchase and overall outcome. The part that I am still working on is properly adjusting the amp. At first, we got it sounding really good, but a comfortable listening volume on the headunit was 2, so 1 was still pretty loud. I have been working on readjusting the amp so that 1 is quiet as it goes up to something like 30ish(?). I've been reading through the manual for how to adjust the amp but have not been totally successful. The manual tells me to turn the amp gain very low and turn up the headunit until it begins to distort, then knock it down a volume to a non-distortion number. Once that is set, turn up the gain for each set of speakers until it distorts again, and then turn it down just a bit. This is the 'maximum' volume for listening as I understand it. The problem is that I turned the headunit way up and felt like I was going to blow my ears out, and there was still no distortion. Any recommendations or tips for how to properly adjust the amps? The instructions for my amp on adjusting the gain is listed here on page 11: http://vault.alpine-usa.com/products/documents/OM_MRP-F300.PDF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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