outahere Posted April 27, 2005 Share Posted April 27, 2005 i found this rather interesting too: OK, this isn't proofed. OE Viewpoint I respect Carroll Smith as a race car engineer, designer, and crew chief, especially since I've got 2 66 GT-350's. There is a lot of truth in a number of things that is said in his article, and some myth's as well. There is a lot that goes on within the friction material industry that is really not discussed outside of the companies, or published in SAE articles. The science is kept as a "black art" for competitive reasons. You have to sign some type of castration policy after you start. It was 25 years ago - I don't remember the details exactly. As mentioned in the sales pitch article, I've never encountered "Warped" rotors in the way the consumer, or mechanics, perceive the term. .......................................................................................................................... .......................................................(lengthy text deleted)..........So the reason I don't usually answer brake questions in detail is because I don't know how without doing a thesis. by paul (fmtrvt) at thedieselstop.com Thanks for posting this! Lots of interesting info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zimbonies Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 I started felling it at 1000 miles. I have 2500 miles now and it still shakes. Hopefully it will go away at 4500 also, since I don't want the dealership touching the car. Joe I also noticed a brake shake at 1000 miles (I may not have noticed it before then coz I wanted to break in the car gently). Currently I have 2500 on the car and am hoping that once the brakes "break" in, it will go away. One other note, I know that my car was manufactured in June of '04 (sticker inside the drivers door) and I bought it in Jan '05. That's a long time for the car to sit on the lot and I'm wondering if the brakes rusted a bit over the winter. I'll keep driving it for a while before I call the dealer, but if it doesn't clear up by 5000 miles, I'm gonna be p*ssed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkwag Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 I did notice the same thing but due to I changed the rims with older tires and I do need new tires because on my 03 Impreza wagon the wheel would shimmy like it is doing now on my LGT wag. Could also be the tires stupid bridgestone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zimbonies Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 I did notice the same thing but due to I changed the rims with older tires and I do need new tires because on my 03 Impreza wagon the wheel would shimmy like it is doing now on my LGT wag. Could also be the tires stupid bridgestone! Does your wheel shimmy all the time or only when braking? Mine is only at high(er) speeds when I hit the brakes.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe05GTMT Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 zimbonies: I think my brake shake is starting to fade a little (2500 miles now). I'm been braking lightly for a while, hopeing that will help them wear in evenly. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkwag Posted April 30, 2005 Share Posted April 30, 2005 No, the only time is when I am over 40 mph and braking. If I am under 40 mph and do a pannik stop I also notice the shimmy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB Lee Posted May 2, 2005 Share Posted May 2, 2005 On day #3 of the ownership of our OB wagon (coming home from the dealer to have an alignment and unsuccessful steering wheel straightening), I noticed the braking vibration with the car at about 400 miles. Two day later my wife took it to South Carolina and reported that it got steadily worse. We are pretty sure it is in rear brakes as we are getting no sensation through the steering wheel at all when it happens. I was wondering if the emergency brake may have been poorly adjusted (the handle come surprisingly high for a new car) or there was some dragging of the pads to generate heat. This car has over 1,000 miles now and I doubt more than 100 are city use and never has it had anything that one might remotely consider a hard stop, even from a highay ramp. She has already made plans to take it to the dealer upon its return for the brake vibration and a weak air conditioning system. That means about 50% of the days it has been at home, it will have been in to the dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highwaydrifter Posted May 2, 2005 Share Posted May 2, 2005 i have the same thing as well.. but mine is because i over did it (140 to 60 heavy braking).. blah im just going to save up for some fatties Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe05GTMT Posted May 2, 2005 Share Posted May 2, 2005 highwaydrifter: Ah hah, you just confirmed how the cars must be driven before people buy them My car has only 20 miles when I got it -- there must have been multiple 140 to 0 brake fade tests done in those 20 miles On a serious note, seeing how widespread bad suby rotors are; I'm definitely going to look at getting some good cryo'ed after market rotors. It sucks that this has to be considered an option for cars that have less than 1000 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thrasher Posted May 2, 2005 Share Posted May 2, 2005 I had this problem. Bought the car used from the dealer w/1200 miles. Didn't test drive it 'cuz it was in the showroom. Steering wheel shook when braking. Thought about it for a couple of days, hoping it would go away. Brought it back to the dealer ($25,999 and my car shakes when braking? I don't think so!). The dealer resurfaced the front rotors. Problem solved, but if I don't get the normal mileage from these rotors, then SOA owes me a set of rotors. I don't beat on the brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fan42025 Posted June 18, 2005 Share Posted June 18, 2005 It's a known problem with these cars. Major problems here in Australia - even had the Japanese visit the dealers to see why there were so many complaints. Not sure if they fixed it. My guess is to go for aftermarket ones. I know, one shouldn't have to do this for such a car. But understand this is not a BMW or Merc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgt Posted June 19, 2005 Share Posted June 19, 2005 I just had mine resurfaced at the dealer under warranty. Couldnt deal with it anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highwaydrifter Posted June 19, 2005 Share Posted June 19, 2005 my honest guess is pad material... and the pads having to be "set" or broken in.. i no longer have any studder much to my surprise... and while this may sound stupid.. i was so bent about having brake shuttering that i decided to take the car out at night on a long strech of road and beat the living crap out of the brakes just so i could finish them off and or see what i could see after some hard braking (straight line empty country road). Well needless to say i think just simply wore off the deposits of brake material that was causing the shutter.. last night going 120 (on a race track of course) and getting on the brakes i had no shudder (which i would have had even getting on them lightly).. so most likely it what was happening is exactly what was described earlier in this thread.. un even brake material deposits on the rotors.. so it prob has to do with a poor choice in brake pads at subaru... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fan42025 Posted June 19, 2005 Share Posted June 19, 2005 my honest guess is pad material... .... so it prob has to do with a poor choice in brake pads at subaru... Exactly my experience. So, I think we've found the "truth". So, the solution appears to be get Subaru to confirm this and ask for a recommended replacement pad, or do you own research and find a replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbotaz Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 Just noticed the same problem. Car is two weeks old and has 500 miles on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
melayout Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 Get it resurfaced at the dealer under warranty, but make sure to reliably reproduce the problem to them beforehand. I keed I keeed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mele63 Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 "I just had mine resurfaced at the dealer under warranty. Couldnt deal with it anymore." Me too. My car has 1,300 miles on it. The dealer did a great job and everything's fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NYsFinest Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 Some people are making it seem like this is no big deal, just go aftermarket, this isn't a mercedes, etc. You're telling me its acceptable for a compnay to sell a car that can't be stopped at speeds over 50 mph w/out my damn car shaking to shit and the breaks feeling like their grinding apart? You have to be kidding me. I love this car, but this is bullshit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
melayout Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 It is a big deal for me and the only sore point about the car. SoA underestimated how hard people are willing to drive the car and chose pad material that is tuned more for comfort/long lasting/quietness instead of performance. I keed I keeed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbotaz Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 I have not driven the car hard at all. Still breaking it in. I noticed the same thing on 2 of the cars that I test drove. By the way mine had 6 miles on the adomoter and the steering wheel was wrapped up in plastic, so no one test-drove it. Explain that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deer Killer Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 If have you have not hard braked in a brand new car, you will have issues. The rotors come coated so they aren't rusty when picky/naive customers come to look at their new cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
melayout Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 If have you have not hard braked in a brand new car, you will have issues. The rotors come coated so they aren't rusty when picky/naive customers come to look at their new cars. turbotaz- That's probably why. Just follow the instructions in the User Manual on how to bed-in/break-in new replacement pads. I keed I keeed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mele63 Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 My advice: take it to the dealer and they will fix it. I know it blows because it's a new car and all that, but maybe you can arrange to have scheduled maintenance done at the same time. I just got mine back and just wish I had taken it back sooner, rather than steam over the situation for a number of weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortnern Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 If have you have not hard braked in a brand new car, you will have issues. The rotors come coated so they aren't rusty when picky/naive customers come to look at their new cars. Well that's interesting, I noticed that my car DID have rusty brakes when it was sitting on the lot, and I have had no shaking in the 1600 miles I have driven the car so far. I also did a few hard stops from 50-5 mph early on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mele63 Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 From my own experience, you can "hard brake" all day and it won't fix the problem I had. The rotors were "out of spec." as per the work order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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