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Brake Shake?


offthacliff

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Thanks, I will give that a try.

 

If have you have not hard braked in a brand new car, you will have issues. The rotors come coated so they aren't rusty when picky/naive customers come to look at their new cars.
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So why are they selling us the cars like this? Someone mentioned bring it in and they will fix it. Whats up w/ that, why are they selling us a car that needs to be fixed right off the bat? Someone whos a subaru groupie please explain that to me.
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So why are they selling us the cars like this? Someone mentioned bring it in and they will fix it. Whats up w/ that, why are they selling us a car that needs to be fixed right off the bat? Someone whos a subaru groupie please explain that to me.

 

Others have stated that they didn't encounter the problem, so the question is not valid and the problem is hit/miss and I think depends on one's braking tyle/technique.

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melayout, w/ all due respect look at this thread, I believe we have enough people stating they experience it to believe its a problem w/ alot of vehicles being sold.

 

You really think Subaru would sell the Legacy GT, their first incursion into upscale markets, with a known problem.

 

Check any other car forum, the G35s, the BMW and OMG the Mercs, a perfectly designed/issue-free car doesn't exist.

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A few examples would enlighten me.

1. Weak pressure plates on a half a year worth of cars.

2. Studder/shudder/hesitation problem.

3. And recently discovered: The only compensation for heatsoak is listening to the knock sensor. If you've been sitting at a light, get on it in first, and then second is very anemic, what's happened is you've basically hit knock in 1st gear because of a heatsocked TMIC, and the ECU has learned to pull back timing. Now your car has less power until it learns again. Basically this can happen anytime you have a parked car. Stop at the gas station, start car, and rip out of there in 1st. Now you have less power.

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FYI read

 

This too http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/bedintheory.htm .

 

1. Weak pressure plates on a half a year worth of cars.

2. Studder/shudder/hesitation problem.

3. And recently discovered: The only compensation for heatsoak is listening to the knock sensor. If you've been sitting at a light, get on it in first, and then second is very anemic, what's happened is you've basically hit knock in 1st gear because of a heatsocked TMIC, and the ECU has learned to pull back timing. Now your car has less power until it learns again. Basically this can happen anytime you have a parked car. Stop at the gas station, start car, and rip out of there in 1st. Now you have less power.

 

Is there history of those issues on other models or are they just specific to the 05 Legacy ?

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I don't know. This is my first subaru.

 

So you can't say that Subaru knew of these problems beforehand and intentionally sold defective products.

 

Btw, I replicated StopTech's Bed-in instructions about 30 mins ago and all the shake is gone. Just make sure to do it on a deserted road in a safe manner.

 

This also means that you should follow the User Manual on howto breakin pads/rotors even on a new car, since the pads/rotors are new.

 

To avoid brake shake in the future, try to avoid stopping in the last 10 feet from a red light because:

 

1. The pads will heat up

2. You will continue to hold hot pads on the rotors causing hotspotting/depositing as you wait for the light to turn green

3. Uneven deposits will cause brake shake

 

and instead slow down in intermittent brake intervals to allow the pads to cool.

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Yeah. Subaru clutches have always sucked, therefore our clutch stink isn't a defect.

 

Our problem isn't that bad, compared to the G35/350Zs who even though are RWD their clutches totally fail and it is a known problem.

 

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Some of the clutches Nissan uses on the 6MT are crappy. A lot of Z owners had theirs go out without even abusing it. My clutch went out on me at 11K miles. I replaced mine with the JWT setup.

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I've been driving stick for 12-13 years now, I know how to drive stick...and when I had my honda, I used to do the same thing every once in a while. The first time I did it to my G this happens? I can agree that the stock clutches for the 6mt are garbage.

Two of my friends with SE-R's did the same thing (on the same night) and nothing happened to their clutch.

 

How the noise with the full JWT set up?

How much was labor?

 

Thanks

 

Just browse other more expensive/competitve car forums and you will appreciate how reliable your Subaru has been.

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It's a known problem with these cars. Major problems here in Australia - even had the Japanese visit the dealers to see why there were so many complaints. Not sure if they fixed it. My guess is to go for aftermarket ones. I know, one shouldn't have to do this for such a car. But understand this is not a BMW or Merc.

 

This issue of brakes has been a major hiccup with Subaru downunder and every GT owner I talk to have reported this gripe that seems never ending.

I've read the communique from Subaru's service division to dealers and the problem appears to be too much sulphur in the pad composition that when wet corrodes the rotor causing warping. (Something to that effect.)

I've had all 4 new OEM rotors fitted as a way to stop the shuddering but stupidly not the pads.:rolleyes:

I'm still left with a particular annoying grinding noise just as I come to a full stop. The sound and feel through the pedal can be likened to a pad with no more material left on it and it's metal to metal. And you can hear it in the car.

 

I went to another Suby dealer and they thought it odd that the pads were not replaced especially on new rotors. They will be doing the work in 2 days but the good news is that Subaru have a new revised pad that has just come out to hopefully once and for all fix the problem. These pads are on back order having only become available. I'll let you know!

Rob.

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I love the guys in this thread who say "well other cars have problems too". Thats a weak way of doing business.

 

I love guys in this thread who say stuff out of context. Thats a weak way of doing business.

 

The context of that comment was in response to DeerKiller's comments that Subaru knew of these problems beforehand and still sold the product.

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I went to another Suby dealer and they thought it odd that the pads were not replaced especially on new rotors. They will be doing the work in 2 days but the good news is that Subaru have a new revised pad that has just come out to hopefully once and for all fix the problem. These pads are on back order having only become available. I'll let you know!

Rob.

 

Thanks foir the update. I'll certainly will be chasing them up to fix this for good. Of course they should recall all the cars to repair all such cars as it's obviuosly a design/engineering fault. It may not be a safety issue (can be though) but it's certainly enough to put off some people (like me) ever recommending their friends to buy a Subau. Or doesn't Subaru care about growing their business? Sometimes I wonder.

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To avoid brake shake in the future, try to avoid stopping in the last 10 feet from a red light because:

 

1. The pads will heat up

2. You will continue to hold hot pads on the rotors causing hotspotting/depositing as you wait for the light to turn green

3. Uneven deposits will cause brake shake

 

and instead slow down in intermittent brake intervals to allow the pads to cool.

 

Get real, this is not a solution. The problem is known and Subaru should do a recall and fix it. Cars have been around for a long while now and it's the 21st Century so we shouldn't have to change our driving characteristics for a particular car to overcome the engineering fault. I've never had this problem in all the cars I've driven in the past 30 years.

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This is not a solution, this is to avoid brake shake till Subaru comes out with updated pads because as I've said before this is one of the sore points I have with the car.

 

Doing the StopTech bed-in/breakin instructions will eliminate brake shake for a while, till the flaky/fragile pad material wears off and starts to shake again.

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Well I can report now a positive improvement to the point it is as it should be.

 

This other dealer fitted only the new revised pad to the fronts. Rears are not required to be done. (OK I'll run with that if they say so) The fronts are apparently larger and do most of the work so theyy cop the punishment.

 

I can now say that there is no grinding sensation nor noise so let's wait and see how this new mod goes for the future.

Well worth investigating if you haven't done anything about it yet.

 

Later,

Rob.

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Well I can report now a positive improvement to the point it is as it should be.

 

This other dealer fitted only the new revised pad to the fronts. Rears are not required to be done. (OK I'll run with that if they say so) The fronts are apparently larger and do most of the work so theyy cop the punishment.

 

I can now say that there is no grinding sensation nor noise so let's wait and see how this new mod goes for the future.

Well worth investigating if you haven't done anything about it yet.

 

Later,

Rob.

 

Got the new Part Numbers for the front pads ?

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