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My first audio install...EVER! was interesting...still not quite complete


chizzam

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I love the Ipod control on the kenwood... very simple controls to use... you can scan back to the previous song and list very easily... I live off an ipod so it was very important to me to find a deck that had the right control. I am very happy with it. Oh an yeah i can use a flash and a Ipod at the same time... It is a little bit slow on reading the flash but it does work I don't use flash that often so it could just be i need to fiddle around with it more or maybe just disconnect the ipod when i wanna use the flash.

 

Oh an Coolness i am glad i could save you $10 dollars

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Well let me tell you that I had a fun time doing this...but as well there were many frustrating times.

 

It isn't fully finished yet...I need to make a sub box for my 2 12" alpine type R's

 

Audio

- Kenwood KVT-512 - head unit

- Kenwood KCA-iP300V - ipod adapter cable

- Exile Mono amp X1200.1 (not yet wired)

- Exile 4 channel amp X600.4

- 2 12" Alpine Type R's (not yet installed)

- 1.0 Farad iCap capacitor

- Iconnects wiring kits

- 8g Ipod Touch :)

 

Extra's

- AVO jdm cubby kit

- Forward and Reverse wire harness (thanks to David Carter)

 

 

- Forward and Reverse wire harness (thanks to David Carter)

 

what is this???

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- Forward and Reverse wire harness (thanks to David Carter)

 

what is this???

Radio wiring harnesses. One of each gender, so you can connect things in between the car's harness and the OEM radio without needing to cut any of the factory wires.

 

203214768_Subaru14-pinfwdrevradioharnesses.thumb.jpg.87ebff775b7adb88eee432f9e54134b6.jpg

Connect your stuff in between the two harnesses

 

The harnesses need all 14 wires so that the illumination on the stock radio still works (many harnesses out there lack the Orange/White dimmer wire at pin #7). See the Legacy radio harness pin-out for more info.

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Radio wiring harnesses. One of each gender, so you can connect things in between the car's harness and the OEM radio without needing to cut any of the factory wires.

 

<-- To car http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/9846/wrxfwdharnangxg0.th.jpg Connect your stuff in here http://img481.imageshack.us/img481/9900/wrxrevharnanguv1.th.jpg --> To OEM HU

 

The harnesses need all 14 wires so that the illumination on the stock radio still works (many harnesses out there lack the Orange/White dimmer wire at pin #7). See the Legacy radio harness pin-out for more info.

 

 

thanks!

 

Also, does anyone know if you can get 1" tweeters in the stock location?? i've got CDT HD-62Z's with 1" silk tweets and 6.5" with 2.75 mounting depth, i've found spacers here.... http://www.iaperformance.com/product_info.php?products_id=1482 but i'm more concerned about the tweets....has anyone tried to mount tweets in the A-pilars??

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Honestly I am not sure... I don't know that much about sound systems I am learning as i go... for now I have just stuck with the stock speakers... also because I don't have a lot of money to spend on anything at the moment...

 

Hope that answers the question :p

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Abandon the rear doors altogether and go kick panels in the front. A decent set of two or three-way components with 100-150 watts will make your bass sound more accurate. And start sound deadening, that will help a lot. Especially in the trunk with those two 12s.
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We agree to disagree 1. sound deadening that will help alot. 2. Abandon the rear door's altogether wouldn't go that far

3. I don't like kick panel's in the front but that me personally. 4. But I really wish we could get a three-way to go in the door some how.;) keep you up dated on what I find.

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4. You can easily get a 3-way to fit by cutting holes above the current 6" location. I simply opted not to do this for resale value. Although, I still may throw another speaker there later if I go crazy.

3. There simply wasn't room for horns and my kick pods use the factory kick panel and clip right in. Focal 4" mid and a tweeter, molded and glassed air-tight and within proper distance of the (sound-deadened) 6.5" in the door-mounted, factory location and on plane to the center of the vehicle. Imaging is top-center dash from what I can tell in tuning it. That's in the past couple days since install.

2. As for rear doors, I have mine running, for now. But I'm tempted to cut them. Getting the imaging and timing right for both the driver and passenger is a monster, and you really shouldn't need them for anything other than possibly a pair of mid-bass drivers or subs...now THAT would be interesting.

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Radio wiring harnesses. One of each gender, so you can connect things in between the car's harness and the OEM radio without needing to cut any of the factory wires.

 

<-- To car http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/9846/wrxfwdharnangxg0.th.jpg Connect your stuff in here http://img481.imageshack.us/img481/9900/wrxrevharnanguv1.th.jpg --> To OEM HU

 

The harnesses need all 14 wires so that the illumination on the stock radio still works (many harnesses out there lack the Orange/White dimmer wire at pin #7). See the Legacy radio harness pin-out for more info.

 

 

Where did you purchase these??

 

Also setting this up i have a few q's:

 

So your essentially splicing the original power wires, ground, dim, etc...and splitting it to Factory HU AND Aftermarket, so you would take the plug out of the factory HU, plug the first adapter into that....which would essentially just give you wire extensions....then from there, you would splice in your aftermarket hu adapter as well as this second adapter (above) to the original wires....so one black (from car) goes to two blacks (one to aftermrkt and one to factory hu's)...just wanna make sure i got the idea...

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So you're essentially splicing the original power wires, ground, dim, etc...and splitting it to Factory HU AND Aftermarket,

...

Exactly. Using those two harnesses, you'll connect as follows:

  • The power and ground wires, and illumination (pin 1) will go to both the factory HU and aftermarket HU.

 

  • Speakers and antenna remote-on will go from the car to only the aftermarket radio.

 

  • Dimmer (pin 7) will go from the car to only the factory radio.

 

  • Antenna (coax) will go from the car to only the aftermarket radio (via an adapter cable for the funky Legacy antenna plug).

 

  • Optionally: The speaker outputs from the factory radio could go through a Line Out Converter (LOC) into an aux input on the aftermarket radio. Otherwise, tape off the ends of those wires coming from the factory HU.

Where did you purchase these [harnesses]??
See the Legacy radio harness pin-out for more info. ;)

i know that there is a sticker warning about heat in the cubby space...has anyone had any heat issues when placing a headunit into this location???

HUs get pretty warm all on their own. I think the warning is mainly so people don't keep chocolate bars or meltable plastic items in the cubby. :)

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Exactly. Using those two harnesses, you'll connect as follows:

  • The power and ground wires will go to both the factory HU and aftermarket HU.

 

  • Speakers, antenna remote-on, and illumination (pin 1) will go from the car to only the aftermarket radio.

 

  • Dimmer (pin 7) will go from the car to only the factory radio.

 

  • Antenna (coax) will go from the car to only the aftermarket radio (via an adapter cable for the funky Legacy antenna plug).

 

  • Optionally: The speaker outputs from the factory radio could go through a Line Out Converter (LOC) into an aux input on the aftermarket radio. Otherwise, tape off the ends of those wires coming from the factory HU.

 

See the Legacy radio harness pin-out for more info. ;)

 

HUs get pretty warm all on their own. I think the warning is mainly so people don't keep chocolate bars or meltable plastic items in the cubby. :)

 

 

thanks! yeah i think i would take the out from the stock HU and utilize the indash 6cd changer, i think its a no brainer!

 

How difficult was it getting through the firewall, thats always the worst part of the install for me, i hate doing that...ha, also, i'm going to be amping up all of my interior speakers, where did you run your wiring? down each side of the car?? i wonder if there is a way to go right down the middle of the car?

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I don't know what I was thinking, but Illumination (pin 1) needs to go to the factory HU, and to the aftermarket (if it has a wire for it). I've edited my previous post.

 

thanks! yeah i think i would take the out from the stock HU and utilize the indash 6cd changer, i think its a no brainer!

The only reason a person might not want to do this is if the new HU only had one aux in and they needed to use it for an MP3 player or something else.

How difficult was it getting through the firewall ...
You'll need to hear from people who own Legacies. :)
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open to suggestions as well... so I can write them down for when I actually do get the money and time to do something about em all

 

Just received from ebay (best buy outlet) a set of Alpine SPS-600C, and SPS-600 speakers to replace my front (Mid/Tweat) and rear speakers, paid $63 for the components, and $39 for the coax delivered! The sound improvement from the OEM speakers is shocking. No issues at all to install, total project was about 2 hours. Using the info on this forum and DIY Mobile Audio was all anyone needs.

 

Next is amp, aftermarket HU, and sub....

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  • 2 months later...
It actually is possible to connect the stock unit's speaker outputs to the aftermarket HU's aux input (through a Line Out Converter or LOC). Then you could continue using the stock CD changer (and a Subaru satellite receiver, if you had it). You could even add an antenna splitter to keep the stock AM/FM tuner working, but that's usually not worth the effort — connect the car's antenna to just the new HU.

 

In the last few posts, is this what you guys are discussing? ^^ :confused:. After reading 10+ threads I confused myself lol.

 

Does the factory HU have some type of line out that can connect into the Aftermarket HU to keep disc changer functionality? If the answer is no, are you saying you have to use the harness that splits the power/speakers wires in order to operate both radio's at the same time?

 

 

 

 

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Does the factory HU have some type of line out that can connect into the Aftermarket HU to keep disc changer functionality?

The factory HU doesn't have line outs. You need to use a Line Out Converter (LOC) to convert from the speaker outputs to line level, and then plug THAT into the new HU's Aux input.

 

[ADDED: You can modify the factory HU to obtain line-level outputs. See this thread: Modifying OEM head unit for un-eq’d line out ]

 

are you saying you have to use the harness that splits the power/speakers wires in order to operate both radio's at the same time?
Yes, you need that pair of forward/reverse harnesses simply to connect power and illumination to the OEM HU (which you're doing to keep the A/C controls) in addition to connecting power and speakers to the new HU. But since you're having to install those harnesses anyway, it's only a little more work to add the LOC.
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  • 2 weeks later...
http://www.avojdm.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=11&products_id=102

 

Thats the part I got for my installation... It was really easy to take the cubby out. All you need to do is use a cd to pop it out to release the clips.. then its just removing a couple screws to take the cubby out..

 

So if I use a cd, where should I start popping it out? By the way the metal harness inside holding your new HU did you fabricate that one? If not where did you bought it from?

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Metal harness you see in the picture is part of the AVO single din kit . Stock there is no provision for holding a head unit. Not necessary to use a CD to remove the stock bezel. You can use a flathead srewdriver with some electrical tape on the end. Try pryin the top part out first then go around the bexel until the whole thing is reachable with the finger tips. Then pull straight out (comes out easier that way)
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Metal harness you see in the picture is part of the AVO single din kit . Stock there is no provision for holding a head unit. Not necessary to use a CD to remove the stock bezel. You can use a flathead srewdriver with some electrical tape on the end. Try pryin the top part out first then go around the bexel until the whole thing is reachable with the finger tips. Then pull straight out (comes out easier that way)

 

So when I buy the AVO jdm kit it comes with the metal harness? Is that the same kit as this one:http://www.avojdm.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=11&products_id=102

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