mwm5094 Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 Bump from the dead. Im in the same boat now, both of mine are seized. I asked the tech at IAG and he said the only way to really get them out was using a grinder on both ends of the bolt, bending the two flanges a little bit, then dropping the whole arm. He said that I couldnt use a sawzall inbetween like people have suggested. Has anyone had any luck using the sawzall? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyscoodle Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 There really isn't enough clearance for the blade to hit the bolt without damaging the surrounding subframe. It would be best to just take your time with an angle grinder. I don't see why you would have to bend the flanges though, and you may be able to hammer the bolt out after grinding the rear side only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwm5094 Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 There really isn't enough clearance for the blade to hit the bolt without damaging the surrounding subframe. It would be best to just take your time with an angle grinder. I don't see why you would have to bend the flanges though, and you may be able to hammer the bolt out after grinding the rear side only. Yeah. IAG told me the same thing about the sawzall. The hammering idea might work because the nut does come off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Heat ONLY the bolt until it's red and then quench it with water. That may make it come loose. Put pressure on the bolt with a wrench once it's hot and a lot of times you can actually hear it crack (other things like O2 sensors do it) when you quench it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Kano Kroil. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwm5094 Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 ^i tried that. No luck. Ended up having to cut them out. I have for sale my old arms if anyone is interested. I even pressed out the old bushings so anyone can upgrade to Whiteline without paying a shop. Asking $70 shipped for the pair. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/14/berysy4a.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/14/3yzavyqy.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 So you need to get the old link out. Once you do that you have two options, replace the whole thing, or press the bushing out. Option 1: #30 Rear link 20250AE080 $58.18 #32 Cam bolt 901700122 $4.37 Flange nut 901000110 $1.77 Option 2: #31 Bushing 20250AE01A $10.47 #32 Cam bolt 901700122 $4.37 Flange nut 901000110 $1.77 You should be able to grind through the old bolt with an angle grinder or you could use a sawzall to cut through. Be careful not to damage the surrounding link or the carrier. *bump*I don't think this is right. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_7/suspension_and_axle/rear_suspension/illustration_2/ Bushing appears to be: 20254AE01A So from this diagram, if one were to remove the assembly and wanted to replace all the hardware that bolts to it, he would need FOR EACH side: 902350006 - (2) self locking nuts 20560AA011 - (1) washer toe adjust 903100171 - (1) washer cam 20254AE01A - (1) bushing b - lateral link 901700122 - (1) bolt cam 901000110 - (1) flange bolt This doesn't include the lateral link itself of course. The entire link itself would be 20250AE01A. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 Sorry it didn't work out for you, that hardware must have been fused together [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialB Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 *bump*I don't think this is right. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_7/suspension_and_axle/rear_suspension/illustration_2/ Bushing appears to be: 20254AE01A So from this diagram, if one were to remove the assembly and wanted to replace all the hardware that bolts to it, he would need FOR EACH side: 902350006 - (2) self locking nuts 20560AA011 - (1) washer toe adjust 903100171 - (1) washer cam 20254AE01A - (1) bushing b - lateral link 901700122 - (1) bolt cam 901000110 - (1) flange bolt This doesn't include the lateral link itself of course. The entire link itself would be 20250AE01A. great this just came in handy, just had to do this order as mavis wanted to charge over 200$ in parts plus labor because my rear adjustment is seized and the bushings are shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmat Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 Does anyone know the correct Whiteline bushing part #? I'm having a hard time figuring out which it is....every site calls the link by a different name.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pt3021 Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W63395 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pt3021 Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 HI GUYS W63395 is the Whiteline part number for the inner bushing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leggyman17 Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 ^i tried that. No luck. Ended up having to cut them out. I have for sale my old arms if anyone is interested. I even pressed out the old bushings so anyone can upgrade to Whiteline without paying a shop. Asking $70 shipped for the pair. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/14/berysy4a.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/14/3yzavyqy.jpg Doing this now lol did you end up using a sawzall or grinder? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suds2250 Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 I started to remove the lower toe arms yesterday. The cam bolts are frozen to the bushing. I used a sawzall and 4 blades to get the right side done. Left side is proving harder since my exhaust is in the way. Anyone use a grinder? 335HP/360Tq VF-22/1820 clone with Meth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discojon Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 I'm going to be doing a swap on my wagon to Spec B trailing arms and Lateral links, and the WL KTA124 links, and all new WL bushings throughout the rear (trailing arm, Lateral Links inner and outer, Lower Rear Outer bushing). I have already been told at my last alignment that the left rear toe bolt is seized so my plan is lots of Kano Kroil, 1000 lb/f impact, and a big breaker bar. If i can get the nut off I think I can push the bolt out with my air chisel. I'll update after I get into it next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suds2250 Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 Cut the left side off. New/used sti pillowball arms are in along with the whiteline KCA399 and W63396. 335HP/360Tq VF-22/1820 clone with Meth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discojon Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 I'm going to be doing a swap on my wagon to Spec B trailing arms and Lateral links, and the WL KTA124 links, and all new WL bushings throughout the rear (trailing arm, Lateral Links inner and outer, Lower Rear Outer bushing). I have already been told at my last alignment that the left rear toe bolt is seized so my plan is lots of Kano Kroil, 1000 lb/f impact, and a big breaker bar. If i can get the nut off I think I can push the bolt out with my air chisel. I'll update after I get into it next week. Well, both toe bolts were frozen in the bushing, my air chisel, pb blaster, 3lb sledge, heat, and clamp wouldn't push it out. I don't have replacement bolts on hand so hopefully the dealer will have them in stock. Otherwise I'll be fabricating lockouts since I installed the KTA124 kit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moddiction Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Are the rear lateral links for toe the same between all 4th gen legacy GT's? Need to replace my rear driver side toe arm as the bolt is completely seized in there. Found this part number but not sure if it's for 08 or if there are any differences between them. 20250AE01A WWW.MODDICTION.COM Moddiction Stainless steel and Titanium shift knobs. Drivetrain, suspension, brakes, exhaust, cooling, fuel, gauges+MUCH more! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discojon Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Are the rear lateral links for toe the same between all 4th gen legacy GT's? Need to replace my rear driver side toe arm as the bolt is completely seized in there. Found this part number but not sure if it's for 08 or if there are any differences between them. 20250AE01A I believe I have a toe arm if you want it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moddiction Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Are the rears the same or is there a left and right? Are all years the same? I have an 08 legacy gt sedan. WWW.MODDICTION.COM Moddiction Stainless steel and Titanium shift knobs. Drivetrain, suspension, brakes, exhaust, cooling, fuel, gauges+MUCH more! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discojon Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 I had to cut the bolt out also but I can press out the bushing. Just pay shipping. As far as I know they are all the same left and right. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/01/ymy6eje2.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moddiction Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 I'd need to get a new bushing pressed in so cost might be about the same as new after that. Let me check about left and right fitment though and I'll let you know. Thanks a lot! WWW.MODDICTION.COM Moddiction Stainless steel and Titanium shift knobs. Drivetrain, suspension, brakes, exhaust, cooling, fuel, gauges+MUCH more! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discojon Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 I'd need to get a new bushing pressed in so cost might be about the same as new after that. Let me check about left and right fitment though and I'll let you know. Thanks a lot! I pressed the old bushing out and blasted the welds and surface rust off. I'll throw a coat of vht black on it. If you don't want it, its up for grabs. Also have a set of OEM rear lower front links Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discojon Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 I pressed the old bushing out and blasted the welds and surface rust off. I'll throw a coat of vht black on it. If you don't want it, its up for grabs. Also have a set of OEM rear lower front links http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/02/y6esazed.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moddiction Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Looks good! I'll have to check with shop how much to press in the new bushing if I get that since I don't currently have a shop press. WWW.MODDICTION.COM Moddiction Stainless steel and Titanium shift knobs. Drivetrain, suspension, brakes, exhaust, cooling, fuel, gauges+MUCH more! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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