So I went to pick up an oil filter on Friday

[jedison]

I have been using Mobil M-1 filters and Mobil 1, 5-30 Synthetic for several years.

[GateTwelve]

I just did a change the other week (37,000 miles) and went with the Mobil 1 M1 filter, and Mobil 1 0w-30. The filter was pretty small, but seemed to have great build quality. No leaks to speak of so far. And the engine definitely turns over better in these cold ND temperatures with the 0w-30 as compared to the 10w-30 the dealership (non-subaru) decided to glob in there.

[D_J]

I heard opinion that the filter should not be large because the filter is surrounded by the exhaust manifold/header and more oil = hotter oil, theory being it stays in the filter longer.

 

Not sure if it really makes that much of a difference, but I'd play it safe and use OEM filters or OEM sized filters - one of Mobil 1 filter is.

 

The manifold and pipes are INSANELY close to the filter. I can see how the smaller filter makes more sense. I went with K & N it was almost the exact same design as Mobil1 for less $.

 

Don't forget the dixie cup trick when removing the filter to avoid spills all over the pipes.

 

Does anyone know where to buy the copper crush washers for the drain plug? Pep Boys and Autozone don't stock them any more.

[Max Capacity]

Let's see, I'm 54 y/o been using Fram since I started changing my own oil back in the early 1970's. Have I ever had a problem,aahh, NO.

 

Glad they finally figured out to put that grippy coating on them. Best thing they ever did.

 

Oil filters are like oil, there all good. Buy your oil and filters at Walmart, lowest prices.

[blackfang]

Let's see, I'm 54 y/o been using Fram since I started changing my own oil back in the early 1970's. Have I ever had a problem,aahh, NO.

 

Glad they finally figured out to put that grippy coating on them. Best thing they ever did.

 

Oil filters are like oil, there all good. Buy your oil and filters at Walmart, lowest prices.

I used them often as well and never had a problem. However, I have seen other that did and it sure was enough for me to not use them.

[scoobydoobie]

I use NAPA Gold filters on my forester, my sister's 04' OBS and my Leggy. No problems.

[GTTuner]

If Fram is your choice then so be it. I have seen more than one Fram filter blow apart on a cold start in cold weather. Dodge trucks with a Cummins are good culprits for blowing a Fram apart. Ten degrees, 15w-40, some of those diesels can see 100+psi of oil press on initial start up.

[ehsnils]

Be aware that many filters are made by the same manufacturer and are then rebranded.

 

Not that it really matters, but I suspect that the Pennzoil and the Mobil1 filters are rebranded from a manufacturer that has specialized in making filters. I know that Volvo filters used to be re-branded Mann filters.

 

And what really matters in normal oil filters is that they have the correct threading, correct gasket diameter and enough filter area to catch all impurities. A physically larger filter usually has a larger filter area, but you can't be sure because it depends on how the filter actually is built inside. The outer size of the filter may or may not have an impact on interference with other things around the filter.

 

And a long time ago there was a test of various oil filters and their ability to filter. This was a Finnish test back in 1995, but it at least gives you an idea about quality variations among filters: http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/oil_filter_test.html

I suspect that there are other oil filter tests floating around on the net and in motor magazines too.

 

I actually found this site too: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ It looks promising when it comes to what we need to know about the blood in our engines.

 

And don't forget that a magnetic oil plug can also be useful. It catches a lot of magnetic particles and may also catch lost screws etc.

[ehsnils]

By the way - has anybody explored alternate oil filters suitable for our cars?

 

It may be good to know since in some cases you end up there with a need for a new filter and the standard one isn't available.

[EvilCamaroSS]

If Fram is your choice then so be it. I have seen more than one Fram filter blow apart on a cold start in cold weather. Dodge trucks with a Cummins are good culprits for blowing a Fram apart. Ten degrees, 15w-40, some of those diesels can see 100+psi of oil press on initial start up.

 

I run Fram on my 400+ RWHP Camaro all day no problems.

[Long Island Legacy]

Does anyone use the JDM sti oil filters.

[Bdubs]

I just put a screwdriver through my old black Roki today.

When I had the 30k done, they must have had an ape screw it on.

[Tuned200]

Funny this comes up. I had the dealer change my oil a few weeks back. Ever since I smell burning oil. I popped the hood today and noticed light oil smoke near my up pipe area coming from ???? Makes me wonder.

[Long Island Legacy]

Funny this comes up. I had the dealer change my oil a few weeks back. Ever since I smell burning oil. I popped the hood today and noticed light oil smoke near my up pipe area coming from ???? Makes me wonder.

 

sounds like a cracked oil feed line thats your worst possible situation honestly it sounds like residual oil from a tech being sloppy most likely.

[D_J]

Bump *

 

- for where to buy the copper crush washers (20 mm?) for the drain plug ?

[Bdubs]

The oil washers aren't copper, just a cheapo aluminum it looks.

 

I've had minimal luck at Advance or Autozone with the size, they never seem to have it in stock.

Check online genuine subaru dealers, its Part # 11126AA000

[ehsnils]

That, or re-use the old one. A slight sweating is what may occur.

[D_J]

That, or re-use the old one. A slight sweating is what may occur.

 

I have been reusing the old one but eventually it will get too worn down

[D_J]

The oil washers aren't copper, just a cheapo aluminum it looks.

 

I've had minimal luck at Advance or Autozone with the size, they never seem to have it in stock.

Check online genuine subaru dealers, its Part # 11126AA000

 

Thanks...Pep Boys use to stock them but lately nobody seems to carry them. I'll get a bunch online now.

[WhatV8]

As far as reusing the oil plug washer, my wife's 2002 Forester is still using the factory installed washer w/o any leaking issues. She just had the 23 oil change done, so we are at 23 installs w/o a leak so far. How many washers do you really need?

 

Back onto oil filters, there are several technical considerations that most folks don't think about. Most of them really don't matter depending on the application. Since our filters are mounted upside down (i.e.- threaded side up), the anti-drainback valve really doesn't have to do anything, the oil will naturally pool into the filter anyway. The bypass spring/valve and filter element area do, however, have a lot of effect whether or not your engine will survive when the conditions call for it. I too used Fram for years w/o any issues, but decided to move to other brands due to the information contained in the following:

 

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html

 

The internal quality of the basic Fram filters just doesn't provide a good sense of security with them. In my SVO Mustang, I use a Motorcraft filter and in my 2.5i, I use a PureOne filter (PL14460), FWIW. Read up and make your own decision that makes sense to you.

[D_J]

I guess it depends on the type of drain plug washer. Most automakers recommend changing with EACH oil change. However odds are as long as the washer is of high quality it will last longer.

[WhatV8]

I doubt it has anything to do with the 'quality' of the washer, but more likely with warranty claims from leaking oil causing blown engines.

 

The aluminum washer on the drain plug is really a gasket that conforms to the oil pan and drain plug head to create a seal. Once an aluminum (or copper for that fact) is compressed it is formed to the surfaces at that specific orientation of the washer to its mating surfaces. The compressed washer is 'work hardened' and becomes less likely to conform to the surfaces during the next tightening cycle, which is why it is 'recommended' to replace at every oil change. As long as the oil pan and drain plug head surfaces are very smooth, like they usually are, a used washer will still seal fine.

 

This same principal is used in your braking system on your car where the flared brake lines tighten in to their fittings and where the brake lines attach to the calipers. Although, since the pressures involved in the brake system are several orders of magnitude higher than your oil pan, those washers 'must' be changed before re-assembling.

[iyalla]

^^yep that's while its called a "Crush" washer. Once you crush it flat during the tightening of the drain plug it doesn't rebound so you can crush it again next time.

[bluesuby]

I've re-used aluminum washers on Mazdas and Acuras many times without issues, but the Subaru washer is different. If you look closely, one side is perfectly flat. The other side is dimpled and this side goes "up" on the plug and gets deformed as it tightens against the oil pan. One use is the limit if you want to keep the oil inside the engine.

[Guest]

Just mount the fumoto valve and stop worrying about washers.