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Has anyone figured out the oil dipstick yet?


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LOL pull out game strong but in the wrong application! My biggest gripe is the one for the center dif. It's like a game of will I touch the DP on accident or not this time. It's like the game operation but burned instead of buzzed.

 

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k280/merc6/LGT/1444653160_ee4223342a_b.jpg~original

 

Auto stick was hidden when I 1st got it I almost didn't thing it had one. 1st car with 3 dipsticks and now new cars took the auto and manual stick and check plugs away.

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At least you have a tranny dipstick.

 

Speaking of dipsticks... Who bumped a 7 year old thread on not being able to read their dipstick?

 

Lol looks like 1-2-3-4 bumped it

03 WRB WRX (RIP)

04 JBP STI (sold)

07 DGM Legacy GT (RIP)

12 OBP STI (DD)

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Anyone here ever check the oil on a Cummins ISB diesel engine? The dipstick is about 3 feet long, and has twists in two places.

 

I have a 2001 Dodge Ram Dually with this engine in it. Checking the oil presents similar issues as mentioned here. After pulling the stick, wiping, reinserting and pulling out again the level is different on one side from the other.

 

It usually takes two to three pull/wipe/reinsert/pull cycles before the reading is anything that I feel is an accurate representation of how much oil is in the crankcase.

 

I think the oil clings to the inside of the tube, and then fouls up one side of the stick as it is drawn out.

 

I have a 1948 Adams Motor Grader with a huge International 4 cylinder diesel engine. The dipstick is straight, about 18" long, and marked in two ways. On marking is for the level with the engine off. The other marking is for the level with the engine running.

 

That's right, with the engine running.

 

This engine actually starts on gasoline, and after warming up for a minute or so is switched over to diesel. It also has a place to hand crank it, but I don't know anyone with enough strength to crank such a large engine over by hand. Back in the early days of diesel engines it was considered better to leave them running, as getting them started supposedly consumed too much fuel and time, so that is why the dipstick is marked for checking while running as well as when the machine is shut down.

 

The grader:

 

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h194/racerx6948/Tractors/00477Adams412H10-1-06_zpsd6db1186.jpg

 

 

 

When I was still working on heavy trucks and construction equipment I encountered many varied and weird dipsticks, some 4 or 5 feet long.

 

And most all of them were quirky, requiring patience to get an accurate reading of how much oil was in the engine.

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Anyone here ever check the oil on a Cummins ISB diesel engine? The dipstick is about 3 feet long, and has twists in two places.

 

I have a 2001 Dodge Ram Dually with this engine in it. Checking the oil presents similar issues as mentioned here. After pulling the stick, wiping, reinserting and pulling out again the level is different on one side from the other.

I don't know if your year was prone, but I know many years the dipstick was actually wrong (also like some of these LGTs... what a coincidence!) as is the owners manual telling you it holds 10qt when it should actually be 11. I run 3gal in my '98 12V. Regardless, I'm pretty sure there are TSBs for a whole bunch of years of Cummins Rams for getting the correct dipstick.
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One helluva bump.

 

 

Just to add to the 7 year old chatter. I've found that upon removing my oil cap, wiping the dipstick clean, and inserting and removing it again, that I read consistent each and every time. (Assuming that i'm on a flat piece of land.)

 

And yes ^ structural rigidity.

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I've found that upon removing my oil cap, wiping the dipstick clean, and inserting and removing it again, that I read consistent each and every time. (Assuming that i'm on a flat piece of land.)

 

That makes sense, removing the cap. The crankcase on today's engines are sealed up to capture evaporative emissions. The dipstick tube is pretty small, and add the residual oil in it there will not be a quick drainback.

 

Open the fill cap and atmospheric pressure should equalize in the crankcase more easily.

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I ran into this issue too. I changed my oil the other day, warmed the car up and checked it, it was high. Then I drove about 50 miles and shit bricks because it looked like I had lost half a quart.

 

What I've learned as an experienced oil checker (my Civic burns through a quart every 300 miles running 10-40 :lol:) is that, especially with our motors being sideways and whatnot, the best thing to do is to check the oil in the exact same conditions every time.

 

For me that is, right after driving the car, parking on a flat surface, and checking it immediately after shut off. Using this process has gotten me the most accurate readings.

 

I had a mechanic tell me that especially in a Subaru, 5 minutes of cool down before checking can make a world of difference. He was definitely right.

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  • 8 months later...

I've had the weirdest experience with this as well. It's like if I pull the dipstick 5 times I'll get 5 different readings! Don't even get me started on the difference between the front and back one says I'm at L and the other at F. And if I park for work clean the dipstick reinsert and come back 10 hours later, it'll read full, clean it off and pull again it reads low. I've been trying to see if my oil consumption had gotten better since I replaced the VCGs but can't tell because of the $&@% dipstick.

 

I will have to try the vacuum relief thing though.

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