Diggs753 Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 Went to Stg 2 today.Installed an Invidia catted DP for a 5EAT.Vehicle has the following mods:Resonator delete,light-weight crank pulley only. Installation was fairly easy with only slight fitment issues on the donut flange but seals well enough.I checked the wastegate valve accuation during install and it has no contact with the divertor AFIK.No noise from the DP during accell. I leaked checked around the turbo when it was cold with soapy water and saw no noticable leaks(new gasket).Boost is registering on the AP @ about 14.5 psi on Cobb OTS Stg1 and approx 16.5 on Stg 2.All boost comes on after 3k rpms so it appears to have no boost spike.This assuming the AP is an accurate yardstick for boost. All this said ,why does it feel like I was making more power during Stg 1 before the DP install?Is the Cobb OTS that weak?Pro or E tune needed?I really expected Stg 2 to wow me. Any knowledgeable info appreciated. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subleg05gt Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 u prolly should have it dyno and road tuned. I have a stage 1 protune from tdc and the boost is at around 16 or so ________ NEW JERSEY DISPENSARY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPLGT Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 Try resetting the ECU then driving it hard...I had 'issues' w/ my stage 2 protune and then AP stage 2 OTS map....I had not reset the ECU. When I did...holy shit! Liek a new car. Let us know. Rehab is for quitters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiniStiGuy Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 reset the ECU. your AP has the option for this. OEM HID's Rx330 Retro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPLGT Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 Does it mattter if you reset it via ap or battery connection? Rehab is for quitters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiniStiGuy Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 no OEM HID's Rx330 Retro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f1anatic Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 It may be a false feeling too. My car after I protuned it at Stage 2, felt considerably slower. In fact it was just much smoother, and of course I was cranking up more hp and way more torque and I was faster. That being said, you should notice the difference between S1 and S2. Reset your ECU. Check for leaks - not just the exhaust side, haskets and shit but also intake, around the intercooler ports. Did you blow a tab ? Maybe you are just leaking air... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPLGT Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 This may be obvious but make sure you zip tie the lines under the intercooler. Rehab is for quitters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f1anatic Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 This may be obvious but make sure you zip tie the lines under the intercooler. JB Weld the Intercooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPLGT Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 Or get an aftermkt TMIC:) Rehab is for quitters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diggs753 Posted August 21, 2008 Author Share Posted August 21, 2008 Might have my answer.On a milk run this evening I was watching the boost and noticed when I parked the vehicle it still was showing 10.2 psi of boost intermitently and would drop after a throttle tap.Maybe the wastegate is sticking??No noises though.All gaskets are new and a thorough leak test was performed twice on the exhaust and once on the intercooler-all tabs appear good.Iv'e got a shop-size tube of JB weld and a big ole bag of zip-ties,just wating to get the time.Anyone have the diagram of all the vacuum lines??? Unfortunately I'm unable to locate a 4WD dyno in SE Va.Closest I think is in MD or NoVa.Is there tactrix cable that works for the CAN BUS so I can data log? I'm gonna try the ECU reset now and tomorrow at work when time permits I'm gonna snatch the pipe off and look at that seperator anyways. Thanks again for buku help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diggs753 Posted August 21, 2008 Author Share Posted August 21, 2008 Reset ECU.No help.Boost readings starting to get erratic but not over-boosting. Showing boost in park @ 10.2 randomly. Definately pulling the pipe tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Long Island Legacy Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 Reset ECU.No help.Boost readings starting to get erratic but not over-boosting. Showing boost in park @ 10.2 randomly. Definately pulling the pipe tomorrow. Thats -10.2 psi AP lastest firmware cant display a "-" sign when there double digits. Obviously if your idling you cant be making 10.2psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soda Popinski Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 Thats -10.2 psi AP lastest firmware cant display a "-" sign when there double digits. Obviously if your idling you cant be making 10.2psi. I thought I read somewhere there is a "T" connection that the hose can pop off of if you overboost. I too, have an 5EAT (2008) on stage 2, invidia hi-flow catted dp. I had problems with boost creep and fuel cut until I dremel tooled down a notch into the divorce wall on the end of the down pipe. Wastegate arm couldn't open fully. What's scarry was that the wastegate on the OEM downpipe dumps into a flat wall and is forced into the exhaust stream laterally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaGe Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 how many miles are on the car? maybe an weak WG actuator? OTM. Sorry I didn't mean to start a war which mainly forum people is all about . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPLGT Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 Rarely do we see problems like this that are mechanical... Rehab is for quitters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f1anatic Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 Reset ECU.No help.Boost readings starting to get erratic but not over-boosting. Showing boost in park @ 10.2 randomly. Definately pulling the pipe tomorrow. Now wait a minute. You've gotta be in gear to hit boost and you will hit full boost in 3rd or higher...so I am not sure what you are seeing when in P (park) or N (neutral) cause you shouldn't ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spec B Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 +1..you should not be seeing boost in neutral..perhaps it is -10.2 (vacuum)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKLGT Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 when I added my catless DP and went from Cobb Stg 1 to stg 2.... HUGE difference on my 05 5EAT. then added an etune and it was another huge difference. check all your hoses, but as others said, you're seeing 10.2 because it's actually -10.2 at idle. Wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle yeah!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psucaptainkickass Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 16.5 sounds about right...depending on the measuring device. I barely hit 17psi on my stage two setup. I have an omori boost gauge and the needle was twittering alot around 17psi. Stage one i think it is right around 15, not sure about that though its been a long long time since I was stage one. Oh and TDC K&N Stage II e-Tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diggs753 Posted August 21, 2008 Author Share Posted August 21, 2008 It has about 35K on it.Been at Stg1 since April and it's been smooth as silk. Now it feels about the same overall amount of power-maybe even a little less, mid to top end. But the funny thing is it has no high or lopey idle and I'd assume Subarus are like alot of other cars that would trigger a PO171 lean code or similar if there was a vacuum leak. Assuming that the AP is correct showing about -5.7 psi going 60-65mph on cruise and then 14-15 psi @WOT.But @times in D or park it clearly shows 10psi or so(put back to Stg1 for now). It was busy as a mofo at the shop today and had no time take the DP off and check the WG divider or anything else on the car.I'll get it right but between work,school,wife and son have little time. Anyone know what other lines I should zip tie beside the one under the TMIC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diggs753 Posted August 22, 2008 Author Share Posted August 22, 2008 Well took the pipe off today.It definately was hitting the WG, decent size mark on the WG and on the seperator.Put the OE back on and was fine.Wish I got the Cobb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soda Popinski Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 Well took the pipe off today.It definately was hitting the WG, decent size mark on the WG and on the seperator.Put the OE back on and was fine.Wish I got the Cobb. Dude. There's a thread here with pictures about it. Dremmel tool + 10 minutes of work = badass gain. You just have to notch the wastegate wall where the triangle is. I'll edit in the thread when I find it hang on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diggs753 Posted August 22, 2008 Author Share Posted August 22, 2008 I know about it.Got some other fitment issue too.The flange is a little off and the flat gasket won't seal and the donut leaked after about 50miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soda Popinski Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 hm. For others reading the thread: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1833445&postcount=18 is how to fix the divorced wastegate. Diggs: did you make sure to tighten the sensor and the downpipe 'hook' under the car? I didn't at first, and it jiggled a little bit. There is a spacer specifically made for the donut on 2-bolt spring flanges... lets you center the donut there. I also threw the downpipe-midpipe gasket on as well. The donut fit inside the midpipe, and I just made sure it didn't slip and put the oval gasket around it and got it tightened down ASAP. Don't use aftermarket nuts on the downpipe bolt studs... they either soften up and you can't get it tight (use a washer if that happens) or blow some smoke (if you smoke) over the gasket from turbo to downpipe bellmouth to check for leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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