fishbone Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 Diggs, I just want to assure you the 10-something "boost" you are seeing when parked is in fact vacuum as others said. The AP can only display triple digits, when you're in anything under 10 you can have the - in front of it which is essentially part of the 8 that the AP is capable of displaying in that position. But as soon as you hit 10+, that - is "pushed" out of display. Make sense? I too thought the tranzition to STG2 was slower than my STG1, that's, I think, mainly because power delivery is smoother instead of that explosion you get at Stage 1. That being said, I am still waiting to get a PDX map because the Cobb OTS map definitely feels on the sluggish side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diggs753 Posted August 22, 2008 Author Share Posted August 22, 2008 Yeah all is tight on the Sensor and hanger.The flat gasket wont work though.There is a difference of about 3/8" from the pass side hole to the drivers side.Maybe I'll try both though.I leak checked it twice already when it was cold with soapy water no leaks on turbo.Not sure how guys get these to torque to spec since it's impossible to get that one nut on the bottom very well-no way to put a socket on it or a TQ wrench.God Bless Snap-On flanks drive wrenches.It has the latest frimware installed that shows hi/lo psi readings,so it's NOT -10 psi.It's the WG hitting.It hit 17.5 psi at Stg1 on the way to the shop today in "I" .And made the "pennies in the exhaust sound"New to Subies but been a tech for 16 years,very thorough guy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPLGT Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 Well took the pipe off today.It definately was hitting the WG, decent size mark on the WG and on the seperator.Put the OE back on and was fine.Wish I got the Cobb. You know what is rediculous? How can this pipe NOT FIT? There is no excuse unless it was used and abused when taken off. You should not have to go through all of that BS. You should have put it on tq the bolts and you're good to go. That is rediculous! I hope you get it worked out. Invidia needs to address this. Rehab is for quitters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soda Popinski Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 I bought a rachet-wrench set of metric, and used a 14MM rachet wrench on that bottom nut. It comes off easy because the OEM DP has a notch for it pressed into the design. The spring-bolts under the car that hold the DP to the Mid Pipe... was a B-I-T-C-H when laying on your back under the car. Basically you have to have 2 rachets. One shallow (I used a breaker bar) to push in on the bolt, into the spring, and then I used my fingers to get the nut on just enough to hold the threads. Quickly I took another shallow socket wrench and tightened it a few turns. Repeat for the other side... then just tighten them down as far as they go... the springs will almost be completely compressed on an aftermarket DP due to the hole difference not stopping the bolt at the inside of the downpipe flange. I thought about using a washer but it doesn't let the spring compress enough to grab it. It's a bear to do. All this AND keep the donut from moving. I used a semi-worn out piece of duct tape to keep the donut in place until the last second then slid it out, tightened. No leak. Took me 2 trys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soda Popinski Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 You know what is rediculous? How can this pipe NOT FIT? There is no excuse unless it was used and abused when taken off. You should not have to go through all of that BS. You should have put it on tq the bolts and you're good to go. That is rediculous! I hope you get it worked out. Invidia needs to address this. Invidia divorced wall clips the wastegate arm by about 2mm. If you have a dremel tool or metal file you can fix this in about 10 minutes by hand, even faster with the dremel tool. Only problem is... you have to put it on first, get some exhaust soot on it, then take it off, you'll see where the triangle > shaped arm slaps it. I ground out a half moon where it hit, put it back on and had the car back together in less than an hour... couldn't be happier with it. Edit: I believe they DID fix it... but the earlier model's are still floating around out there with vendors who have them in stock. There are reports of 100% fitment by some users, who probably have a newer model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 It has the latest frimware installed that shows hi/lo psi readings. I don't follow. I also have the same firmware, when I let off the gass I hit 10PSI and I also hover around 8-10 when at a complete stop. I'll check again but, as I said, it is physically impossible for the AP to show the negative sign when vacuum is over 9.9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diggs753 Posted August 22, 2008 Author Share Posted August 22, 2008 There is no excuse unless it was used and abused when taken offMight be able to explain away the mark on the pipe from assembley/disassembley but if you saw my WG you'd think someone took a grinder to that. Not a big deal but kind of a hassle.I was just chummed up about the Invidia with the new design for the 5EAT.Low cost,quality,etc..But looks kinds so-so in hand.And really makes me worry about my CV boot as well,about a fingers width btween the two. it is physically impossible for the AP to show the negative sign when vacuum is over 9.9I guess I'm gonna have to take a pic or something to settle this. Anyways,all for now gonna take the fam out for shopping and some din din. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPLGT Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 I guess that sounds easy enough but how about manufacturing at correctly? My MR DP had no issues... Rehab is for quitters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soda Popinski Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 I guess that sounds easy enough but how about manufacturing at correctly? My MR DP had no issues... They *did* fix it. The new ones don't have this problem. But some vendors have stock of the old units. This would explain why some users have 0 issues and some have the 'penny in the tailpipe' rattle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPLGT Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 Gotcha...that sucks. I would be pissed! Rehab is for quitters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soda Popinski Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 Not a big deal but kind of a hassle.I was just chummed up about the Invidia with the new design for the 5EAT.Low cost,quality,etc... Low cost? Mine cost me $700... I went with Invidia over Cobb (I have Cobb everything else) because the Invidia has better fitment cearance around the 5EAT in the AT pipe than the Cobb. I have the Invidia Hi-Flow Catted Downpipe for 5EAT (05+) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diggs753 Posted August 22, 2008 Author Share Posted August 22, 2008 I don't follow. I also have the same firmware, when I let off the gass I hit 10PSI and I also hover around 8-10 when at a complete stop. I'll check again but, as I said, it is physically impossible for the AP to show the negative sign when vacuum is over 9.9Mine shows the"-" sign.Are you using the 1.2.8xxxx?That shows the highest and lowest recorded psi,rpm,etc..? Low cost? Mine cost me $700... WTF!!Really?pesos? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPLGT Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 I would return that MOFO! Rehab is for quitters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diggs753 Posted August 22, 2008 Author Share Posted August 22, 2008 would return that MOFO!You won't be able to.This issue is only evident after running the car and doing that,will keep the vendor from wanting to accept it.Already checked into it.Unless the manufacturer will step up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPLGT Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 That is ome serious BS!! $700 for a DP and the thing doesn't fit properly and the WG is hitting...WTF? If you paid w/ a CC I would dipsute that shit! Rehab is for quitters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soda Popinski Posted August 23, 2008 Share Posted August 23, 2008 Why? I fixed it in less time than it would have been to contest it. AND it gave my car serious ups. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPLGT Posted August 23, 2008 Share Posted August 23, 2008 Why? I fixed it in less time than it would have been to contest it. AND it gave my car serious ups. The point is that you shouldn't have to 'fix' something that is new and you paid $700 for...foir that price, iut better have come with a hooker. Rehab is for quitters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted August 23, 2008 Share Posted August 23, 2008 On a side note....I always suggest logging before and after to see what's going on, including 50-80 and 60-80 times (or whatever works best of AT...I have a MT) to see what gains you're really getting (has to be similar temperatures too). You can also calculate HP & TQ (See airboy's sheet). Bottom line, you can get a lot of info even if you don't have a dyno. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soda Popinski Posted August 23, 2008 Share Posted August 23, 2008 Not for nothing, but when did working on cars mean 'no work involved'? Every car I've ever worked on required tweaks and mods to get just right. You can't just expect everything to bolt on and be perfect. Sometimes you have to roll your sleeves up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted August 24, 2008 Share Posted August 24, 2008 Mine shows the"-" sign.Are you using the 1.2.8xxxx?That shows the highest and lowest recorded psi,rpm,etc..? Not sure what version I have, but it's live monitoring, the PSI is shown live. Does yours show -10 PSI ever? Later edit: in regards to the suggestion of resetting the ECU after one has flashed to another base map. I don't think that's needed. When you start the base map flashing process, one of the steps states "resetting learned ECU parameters". Isn't that basically resetting the ECU and starting from scratch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Long Island Legacy Posted August 24, 2008 Share Posted August 24, 2008 Okay new cobb firmware 1.28 is out and it displays - even with it -10.psi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diggs753 Posted August 24, 2008 Author Share Posted August 24, 2008 Yeah it shows -10 psi.It also shows a high and low setting for the selected data for that use. With the "old style" pipe the seperator was significantly longer than the "new style".I'd show you with a pic but for some reason I can't figure out how to yet.New design yet same old problems.If you look at the back of the turbo it makes one wonder where in heck is there even room for the seperator to fit even after it's been machined down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diggs753 Posted August 26, 2008 Author Share Posted August 26, 2008 How I attach pics?any limits on size or quality? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CypherMax Posted August 28, 2008 Share Posted August 28, 2008 I have a question...I'm going stage 2 on Saturday with Cobb dp and grimmspeed up. When I am going to Flash stage 2 on the accessport should I reset the ecu before or after the flash? Also do I have to but a resistor in the egt sensor since my up pipe deletes that or does the accessport ignore this code? And finally I own a mac and I have never updated my ap cuz the software won't work on macs. I think my software level is 1.1.4? Should I try and update it before I reflash? Or is it not important? Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soda Popinski Posted August 28, 2008 Share Posted August 28, 2008 I thought stage 2 maps required turbo-back exhausts, stock air-filters (or cobb air filter kits). I would make sure of this before you step to stage II and the maps are off from what your car can handle... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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