Invidia Downpipe Rattle...

[korpsepatrol]

Oh no sorry if that came out wrong subie, i am VERY happy with the dp. Solid, inexpensive, has yet to show any signs of rust, just bronzed a bit due to the heat. The boost is nothing large just when we first started tuning i would get 18psi when it was set to like 17.5ish so we toned it down to the proper boost so now its a consistent 17.5-.8

 

I would definitely recommend this piece especially for the money, its just the fact that it is not friendly out of the box.

 

Also since i had to the first reported incident with it, it took many other techs telling me it was my turbo dying or a lost nut inside my cat then my suggestion turned out to be right and i finally went with my gut and saw it for my self.

 

As far as the fit, i would describe it as a snug fit, nothing that would seem damaging however its just that as you see in my picture right when the wastegate was trying to open it would just keep tapping on it so no pressure was lost and it would boost till like 22-24psi.

 

I would say if they would have either curved the divorce like the hks dp for wrx or maybe made it thinner around that waste gate area it would have worked out of the box.

[Soda Popinski]

FWIW: The OEM downpipe is just an O on one side, and the entire right side (looking at the turbo) is blocked off anyway.

 

The divorced wall doesn't touch anything. It's just... 'there'. The side that was previous blocked off by the downpipe is now open. I doubt there's any turbulance at all...

[SBT]

FWIW: The OEM downpipe is just an O on one side, and the entire right side (looking at the turbo) is blocked off anyway.

 

The divorced wall doesn't touch anything. It's just... 'there'. The side that was previous blocked off by the downpipe is now open. I doubt there's any turbulance at all...

 

Yeah - the stocker is plain nutz IMO, with the WG dumping against a flat plate and forcing the gas into the turbo outlet stream. But Invidia is claiming that the DWG reduces this turbulence by keeping it separate until it can be "blended further downstream. Glad to hear that it can be fixed to work properly, just wish I didn't have to go this route to make it work.

[dmp]

I've ordered that DP - I think as a precaution I'll tap it w/ a griner right there.

 

Random Question: did y'all re-use your OEM gaskets (Dp to turbo)?

 

Anyone install a DP w/o a tune?

[Soda Popinski]

I've ordered that DP - I think as a precaution I'll tap it w/ a griner right there.

 

Random Question: did y'all re-use your OEM gaskets (Dp to turbo)?

 

Anyone install a DP w/o a tune?

 

Just follow the pictures, make a half-moon or 'football shaped' grind into it. Almost like a (

 

Make sure the deepest part is 1/4".

 

You can use the OEM gasket. Depending on your CBE, you will either have to use the donut gasket or not. The first time I bolted mine up to a cobb CBE, I omitted the donut. I had an exhaust leak. Then I threw the donut back on there (The invidia does NOT have a flange to put the donut on, so if the CBE has a recessed flange to receive it, you'll have to put it in and line it up right, with a 2nd flange gasket for the invidia). Buy a new gasket, but most likely the turbo-to-downpipe gasket comes taped to the inside of the downpipe box.

 

The downpipe is easy to do, especially since the car comes with a downpipe 'hook' to snap the lower end into while you torque down the nuts on top.

 

Be careful not to overtorque the nuts and bolts on the top into the turbo.

 

Because of the wider bellmouth, you won't be able to torque all 5 nuts/bolts (2 bolts, 3 nuts) from the top. You'll want to raise the front of the car pretty good so you can get under the car and torque that last bolt from underneith. USE anti-seize on the nuts and bolts. Use penetrating spray before attempting to break them. The heat really makes em stick on... even after an hour's use.

 

If you use your oem heat shield you'll have to get some tin snips to cut the heat shield to fit.

 

I went with the Cobb heat shield. Looks nice and doesn't cost too much. AJW Performanace can get you that for a good price.

[SeeeeeYa]

I've ordered that DP - I think as a precaution I'll tap it w/ a griner right there.

 

Random Question: did y'all re-use your OEM gaskets (Dp to turbo)?

 

Anyone install a DP w/o a tune?[/quote]

 

Back when, I did. You will notice a difference, but only a fraction of the difference a tune will make.

 

Oh, and I have reused the dp to turbo gasket successfully.

[Soda Popinski]

I've ordered that DP - I think as a precaution I'll tap it w/ a griner right there.

 

Random Question: did y'all re-use your OEM gaskets (Dp to turbo)?

 

Anyone install a DP w/o a tune?[/quote]

 

Back when, I did. You will notice a difference, but only a fraction of the difference a tune will make.

 

My accessport really made a noticible difference. You'll notice power gains almost instantly, but with the AccessPort on stage 1 (version 1.03) you get a great kick there. On Stage 2, I'll assert that this sh*t was off the hook.

[dmp]

Just follow the pictures, make a half-moon or 'football shaped' grind into it. Almost like a (

 

Make sure the deepest part is 1/4".

 

You can use the OEM gasket. Depending on your CBE, you will either have to use the donut gasket or not. The first time I bolted mine up to a cobb CBE, I omitted the donut. I had an exhaust leak. Then I threw the donut back on there (The invidia does NOT have a flange to put the donut on, so if the CBE has a recessed flange to receive it, you'll have to put it in and line it up right, with a 2nd flange gasket for the invidia). Buy a new gasket, but most likely the turbo-to-downpipe gasket comes taped to the inside of the downpipe box.

 

The downpipe is easy to do, especially since the car comes with a downpipe 'hook' to snap the lower end into while you torque down the nuts on top.

 

Be careful not to overtorque the nuts and bolts on the top into the turbo.

 

Because of the wider bellmouth, you won't be able to torque all 5 nuts/bolts (2 bolts, 3 nuts) from the top. You'll want to raise the front of the car pretty good so you can get under the car and torque that last bolt from underneith. USE anti-seize on the nuts and bolts. Use penetrating spray before attempting to break them. The heat really makes em stick on... even after an hour's use.

 

If you use your oem heat shield you'll have to get some tin snips to cut the heat shield to fit.

 

I went with the Cobb heat shield. Looks nice and doesn't cost too much. AJW Performanace can get you that for a good price.

 

That's phenominal information - thank you so much. AJW is the source for my downpipe - he's stated a gasket does NOT come with the pipe.

 

I've had horrendously-bad luck w/ exhaust components (bolts snapping/stripping). I think I just might find a shop to do the install. If they can tune a utec, all the better; I'll have them install both and do a tune right away. I've picked up a utec - but still haven't decided if there's a better option for me, be that AP, or other tuning source.

 

 

Back when, I did. You will notice a difference, but only a fraction of the difference a tune will make.

 

Oh, and I have reused the dp to turbo gasket successfully.

 

Thanks! That's what I'm looking for. In the case I have the DP on prior to a tune, I don't want to blow something up.

 

 

 

My accessport really made a noticible difference. You'll notice power gains almost instantly, but with the AccessPort on stage 1 (version 1.03) you get a great kick there. On Stage 2, I'll assert that this sh*t was off the hook.

 

I really am having a hard time believing from Stock to Stage 2 is 'that' much of a difference. I know, I know...i'll BE a believer soon enough, I suppose.

 

 

Thanks folks.

 

Darin

[korpsepatrol]

Its really even easier than you think dmp, use the oem bolts and gaskets. Thats is one thing i didn't mention about my trials and tribulations with this dp in the beginning. Do not use those nuts that come with it. They are really soft and will smooth out after several times of putting it on and taking it off(took 1 hour to dremel the nut off the stuff of the turbo, after the 4th time of changing it). Use the ones that are already on there and you will be fine.

 

Adding the dp with no tune will not do cause anything to break but just don't do mashing the gas and beating the snot out of it since you might get fuel cut if your not tuned.

 

The difference between a stock and stage 2 lgt is night and day lets just put it that way.

 

welcome!

[dmp]

Its really even easier than you think dmp, use the oem bolts and gaskets. Thats is one thing i didn't mention about my trials and tribulations with this dp in the beginning. Do not use those nuts that come with it. They are really soft and will smooth out after several times of putting it on and taking it off(took 1 hour to dremel the nut off the stuff of the turbo, after the 4th time of changing it). Use the ones that are already on there and you will be fine.

 

Adding the dp with no tune will not do cause anything to break but just don't do mashing the gas and beating the snot out of it since you might get fuel cut if your not tuned.

 

The difference between a stock and stage 2 lgt is night and day lets just put it that way.

 

welcome!

 

Greatly appreciate the advice; and letting me fill your thread w/ sidebar.

 

 

At least, before I pull off the stocker I'll have ppl over. I feel better with more folk around; more eyes on potential problems, etc. I've done a lot of car work (engine rebuilds as a youth, Plenty of drive-way-clutch changes, etc...) - but when it comes to exhaust my cars seem to have 'that one bolt' which requires a Doctor or a Priest. Or both.

 

 

The UTEC I'm getting is 'tuned' already - however I've got no desire to take what 'tuned' means on ONE car, and apply it to MY car w/o "Adult" supervision (read: data logging, etc.) - thus, I'd likely drive around for awhlie w/o things getting sorted.

[SBT]

Yeah - some of those nuts and bolts are enough to make a preacher swear.

[Soda Popinski]

Well now I'm worried, cause I used the invidia nuts and bolts. The bolts because they were shiny and you could see them from on top. The nuts were black. I used 3 of them, but when I had to remove the DP to notch it, they were tougher to get off... I don't plan on touching it again but I guess I'll put the oem's back on if I have to. The nut on the right hand side of the car actually got frozen about 1/16 of an inch from the flange. When I went to back it off, the post bolt came out with the nut. Ouch. So I put a washer on it, and cranked it back in firmly but not too much... and left it alone. I kept mutting... "Oh sh*t... f*ck me" every time the wrench would turn a little too fast... thinking it was going to shear off. It never did.

[dmp]

Well now I'm worried, cause I used the invidia nuts and bolts. The bolts because they were shiny and you could see them from on top. The nuts were black. I used 3 of them, but when I had to remove the DP to notch it, they were tougher to get off... I don't plan on touching it again but I guess I'll put the oem's back on if I have to. The nut on the right hand side of the car actually got frozen about 1/16 of an inch from the flange. When I went to back it off, the post bolt came out with the nut. Ouch. So I put a washer on it, and cranked it back in firmly but not too much... and left it alone. I kept mutting... "Oh sh*t... f*ck me" every time the wrench would turn a little too fast... thinking it was going to shear off. It never did.

 

 

That's exactly why I prefer to pay folk to do this sorta thing.

[korpsepatrol]

Yeah soda watch yourself with those after the first time they start to get a little gummy and by that i mean they actually become soft and let you mold the metal of the nut. The bolts where it connects to the catback are fine just the ones on the turbo is the ones you should not use. Since you would have to deal with the studs shearing or breaking or misthreading. Remember just use the oem nuts on that section. Especially if you end up taking it off again.

 

This shouldn't be a deal breaker on this dp though since all you gotta do is use the oem that you just took off. Blast it with pbblaster to take off the rust and such and walah you have a new nut that is perfectly fine to use. One thing i noticed is the invidia nuts are almost like brass and the oem are like cast iron so thats how i would describe it.

 

I will take a picture and show you the stud from the turbo that i had to shear with a dremel to take the nut off.

 

Dmp, no problem man just grind it down, smooth it down, use oem materials and get that thing on there! Good luck and enjoy the power. If it makes you feel better before my subie i never touched the inner workings of a car in my life, so its THAT easy.

[al-gorithm]

Did anyone have a sound like in the videos below? I usually get a ticking noise when approaching 3000 rpms on more than light throttle. The in cabin video isolates it best at 10 second mark. The outside video at 40 seconds. I don't know if its the WG flapper or not.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zA66cTtFlGI]YouTube - Flowmaster 40 Custom Exhaust on 05 Legacy GT - Inside Cabin[/ame]

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_fse9P2L2A]YouTube - Flowmaster 40 Custom Exhaust on 05 Legacy GT[/ame]

[korpsepatrol]

I have not, is this a stock turbo? what are your mods? I can hear that turbo very very well.

[Soda Popinski]

you definately have the wastegate flapping there. the bottom one you can hear it, sounds like a washer in the exhaust tube.

 

You need a dremel tool, and to remove the downpipe.

 

If you can, just take out the bolts from the mid pipe to the downpipe. take off the o2 sensor, take off the bolt to the downpipe clip. Leave the downpipe hookd up, remove the bov, the intercooler and the heatshield. Remove the downpipe from the top. Take the downpipe off. Look at the divorced wastegate wall.

 

You should have a shiny triangle where it taps.

 

the rest is covered in soot.

 

Take a dremel tool and cut a football shape (half moon) 1/4 inch deep centering around where that notch is. This will allow the wastegate to open unobstructed.

 

There are pictures to show you what it looks like.

 

Reverse the installation, make sure that you tighten the downpipe hook bolt at the bottom (I forgot twice).

 

Make sure there are no gaps in your downpipe to turbo. Double check.

 

Make sure you have no exhaust leaks. Reinstall the ic and the bov.

 

fire it up and listen for it again.

 

hope it helps

[korpsepatrol]

you definately have the wastegate flapping there. the bottom one you can hear it, sounds like a washer in the exhaust tube.

 

My tapping was more prominent and didn't even have a rpm spectrum it would sound at ALL times. I guess i didn't hear it well on the youtube video but it sounded more like a waste gate issue instead of tapping.

 

Soda is right though just check anyway and see if you see the triangle like in my pictures. If so then do dremel it down. So just hope that it is this issue since you would rather have an issue with a resolution than be the first with a new issue. It took me 5 weeks to figure out my dp issue. Which i am glad has helped out many now due to this manufacturing defect, however it really was more frustrating than anything else i went through since it caused many many issues, and i think even might have damaged my turbo

 

Issues you will see with the invidia dp if you do have the divorce issue,

(all of which i had):

-Over boosting

-Fuel cut due to over boosting

-A tapping which emanates from the turbo(very loud to mild)

-Vacuum line might pop off due to the over boost and will cause terrible idles and poorly running car

-Incredible amounts of knock

 

-Side note DO NOT use the nuts that come with the invidia dp they are very soft.

 

 

DO NOT PANIC ITS A VERY SIMPLE FIX! I STILL recommend this DP for the price it cannot be beat! Its a very solid piece.

[al-gorithm]

I used to get it (not as prominent) with my Flow shorty... that one wasn't a full bellmouth.

 

I'll try to take it out this week or next and let you guys know.

 

Thanks for the help.

[dmp]

Incredible amounts of Knock, and you'd STILL recommend the dp? I just ordered one, and now I'm skeerd.

[korpsepatrol]

no dude believe me that was when i didn't fix it so don't worry man you will be allll good.

[dmp]

Thanks man. Was supposed to have a tracking # today...regardless -when I get the thing, I'll dremmel then install

[korpsepatrol]

Sounds good remember, a) dremel it smooth and cover the holes so no shavings go in b)don't use the nuts that come with the kit c) have oem gaskets ready for the turbo side of the dp.

[Soda Popinski]

my dp came with a gasket taped to the inside of the box

[korpsepatrol]

well then you sir got a hell of a deal.