How to completely get rid of all Chimes permanently

[Soda Popinski]

it must have changed. I have to be going over 15 mph before any chimes go off. I was laughing at all the fuss over a seatbelt chime for that. If it goes off and you don't have your seatbelt on at 15mph, it should punch you in the face, IMO. Wear your seatbelt.

[Bimmer]

It's not just the seatbelt chime, it's the key-in-the-ignition chime, too. I leave the key in the ignition a lot while I'm loading/unloading the car, and the chime is maddening. I tore it out the first day I had the car.

 

Ben

[RustyShackleford]

Any hints on how to remove the dashboard panel that provides access

to the module with the bell ? (Yes, I've searched). Thanks !

 

Several days and no help, so answering my own question:

 

First, you have to remove the panel that's above the pedals.

As described elsewhere, there are three connectors, the ones

at each side are the kind you twist a quarter-turn with phillips

screw-driver and then you can pull them out, the one in the

middle you simply pry out with a flat-blade.

 

Second, for the larger panel under the steering column, there

is only one screw - on the lower inboard corner - everything

else are just clips that come loose when you pry around the

edges of he panel.

 

You may wish to disconnect the wiring harnesses (three

on my car, more or less depending on how your's is equiped)

that plug into the back of this panel where the mirror, wiper

de-icer, and dashboard light dimmer switches are located.

That way you can set this panel completely aside for the

nightmarish task of getting the "integrated module" (the

box with the chime bell) loose.

[RustyShackleford]

Take the box off the the steering column by prying the metal tabs far enough for the round clip the be released.

 

Ok, I've been trying to figure this out for the last hour, and no luck.

 

Help !

 

I see a metal tab at each end of the module, fit into a plastic

guide on each edge. With a little round hole in the metal of each

metal tab. Can't really pry the metal tab away from the module,

because the plastic guides are holding it - just gonna break something.

 

Car isn't driveable now, really, with all the dash panels everywhere,

and I'd like to get this mod done soon ...

 

Thanks !

 

And again, no response to my plea for help, so maybe this will help

the next person ...

 

I gave up on trying to "pry the metal tabs"; I was afraid I was gonna

completely break something.

 

Instead, I removed the two bolts that connect the metal mounting

bracket to some member near the steering column. This wasn't

too hard - they are two hex-head phillips screws that aren't THAT

hard to get to - they're behind/above the "integrated module".

 

Then I pulled out the metal bracket and "integrated module", still

attached to each other - and on a workbench I was finally able

to separate the plastic box from the metal bracket and re-attach

the metal bracket to the car.

 

The instructions for mod'ing the module are misleading, or else

mine is slightly different. There is no "cover" per se; instead,

the side edge of the plastic box (with the connectors) detaches

from the main box, pulling the circuit board with it. As noted,

it's best to use little pieces of cardstock to separate the sides

of the box from the section with the connectors, and then pry

the thing apart - breaking the glue bonds.

 

On mine, the bell is not a "black cylinder the size of my finger

tip", rather, it's a grey cylinder maybe 3/4" diameter and 3/8"

high. I simply de-soldered it. After all this work, I don't want

even a hint of the f*ckin' chime !

[RustyShackleford]

Done ! Praise the lord !

 

Seems like maybe this oughta be moved to the "walkthrough" section.

It was frustrating, but so is having to repeat the multiple-click method.

Plus, to me, it's MORE important to be able to have the radio on (eg. when

I'm working on the car) than to be able to take short drives (eg. to the

mailbox) without a seatbelt.

[Pdizzleccc]

Just so everyone knows this pointless fact, it goes off at 6 mph, it says it in the owners manual, which is like an idle in 1st gear

[DoubleM]

My chimes went off on their own. No more seat belt light or chime anymore. I dunno why, just stopped working. Lol.

[cstefanic]

I'm about halfway through this whole process.

 

I've got the black box out, and as big of a pain in the ass that that was I think it was the easy part. Trying to pry out the one half of the IM is nearly impossible! Anyone maybe with a suggestion?

[cstefanic]

AH-HA! Okay, got it open. I'm taping shut the hole in the speaker as I don't have a soldering gun. I just took some pics so I'll try to help everyone else out by posting them later today.

[cstefanic]

Here's how I did this:

 

First, take out the lowest panel under the steering wheel, then take off the panel where the mirror adjustments are. This is with one screw and a lot of pop-it things that you just pull away from the dash. Do it until it looks like this:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3057/2885494407_76dfca47d9_b.jpg

 

Now that that's all torn out, you'll see the black box. Unplug the three cable bundles going into it.

 

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3096/2885501551_6db4bdb243_b.jpg

 

To pull out the box, I took a 10mm socket and undid the bolts behind the box that hold the metal bracket to the car.

 

Once the box is out you can take off the metal bracket and re-attach it to the car. Now for the terrible part: opening the box. Basically, use cardstock to hold open the sides and then just take a screwdriver and stick it in the ends and just pry pry PRY it out. The hot glue that holds the circuit in is down in the bottom of the box and is pretty strong. Your box may take a beating here.

 

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3233/2885490997_705884f23c_b.jpg

 

Once it's out, the speaker is the big grey thing. Either tape it up or hack off/pull out the top part:

 

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3252/2886321720_7027c22295_b.jpg

 

I opted to pull the top out of it with some needle nose pliers.

 

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3072/2886341218_c8d34ecdb1_b.jpg

 

Once the top's off, pull out the piece of foil that's inside (it's missing from the above photo) and go back and reassemble everything.

 

VOILA, not a single ding will ever be emitted by the car ever again.

 

Oh, almost forgot: if you tape up the hole, it only cuts the dinging down to maybe 25% of normal, and I figured, what the hell, I've gone this far...I couldn't be happier with the silence!

[hadvw]

Mine goes off just sitting at idle with a 5-10 lb load on the passenger seat. Almost every time I try to bring something back from Home Depot/Lowes where I have to fold the seats down, I have to endure the chime all the way home.. This does sound like it will fix things. Unfortunately, seems like a little more work than it should be.

 

I wish Cobb would add the "remove chime" option to the AP. That would be SO sweet!

[2006Specb122]

I have heard the AP doesn't have any access to the seat belt chime on the car otherwise they would probably offer it.

 

Although it could be a scary liability with the way people woud sue for not being reminded to put their belts on.

 

It does seem like a lot of work and it would probably be permanent.

 

Can someone remind me of all the times the car woudl chime so I can decide if I will miss any of them.

 

1. Seatbelt (obvious)

2. Door open and keys in the ignition. (will this result in locking the keys in the car)

 

Any other times when the chime is used?

 

I never get a chane to play CD or radio while washing or detailing because the chime is always going ......

[2006Specb122]

I do like this method because it doesn't mess with other wiring or seat belt connections.

 

The light will still blink if you don't wear it but you won't be bothered by the chime.

 

OH... I almost forgot... does the navigation use that chime or is that strictly through the speakers?

 

It chimes before you turn or when it gives audio directions.

 

I would think thats the speaker audio system though.

[executor485]

I've VERY interested.

 

Anyone remember when Clarkson drove the CTS-V? It bonged. Bong. Bong. Bong.

 

Or in the Transporter 3 when the girl wasnt buckled in... ROFL

[RustyShackleford]

I

2. Door open and keys in the ignition. (will this result in locking the keys in the car)

 

My car has a feature where it will not let you lock the doors (by hitting

the master lock button on the inside of driver's door and then shutting it),

if the key is in the ignition (the master lock button just pops back to the

unlocked position. It can be de-programmed (as described in manual)

but this is one of the very few times I like it that the car is trying to

out-think me.

[2006Specb122]

really?

 

I'll have to try this today...

 

with windows down OR me sitting in the car.

 

 

The most advanced system I've seen is my father's acrua RL.

It doesn't require a key to start the car.

You just have to have the key in your pocket and the car will start.

Same for walking up to the car.

If it is on you then the doors unlock as reach for the handle.

WILD

 

The best part is you can't lock the keys (remote) in the car or trunk.

 

 

If you toss them in the trunk and close...then the trunk will pop back open.

 

If you try leaving them in the car the doors will not lock for you.

 

very cool!

[stclark13]

cstefanic thanks for the pics i did it today and it probably the best mod i've doen to my car to date, kinda sad if you think about it.lol! However i found an easier and reversable way to remove buzzer. If you flip the circuit board over you can see two solder connections directly below the buzzer heat them up with a soldering iron and it'll pull right off, that way you can resolder it back on if you so choose...but who would want to do that!

[cstefanic]

cstefanic thanks for the pics i did it today and it probably the best mod i've doen to my car to date, kinda sad if you think about it.lol! However i found an easier and reversable way to remove buzzer. If you flip the circuit board over you can see two solder connections directly below the buzzer heat them up with a soldering iron and it'll pull right off, that way you can resolder it back on if you so choose...but who would want to do that!

 

Soldering irons are for people that don't understand the enjoyment of brute force.

[05Limited]

The fact that "Chimes" is capitalized in the title of this thread made me think it said "Chinese" for a second...who knew... and in the interior/audio section...

[2006Specb122]

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[FPerron]

I'm about to attempt this procedure and have a few questions.

 

The instructions for removing the box are a little unclear. You say to remove the box from the car, you must unbolt a bracket, remove the box and bracket, remove the bracket from the box, and then rebolt the bracket to the car. Is this correct?

 

Also, what's the chance of destroying something on the circuit board when you're ripping the chime apart?

 

Thanks

[FPerron]

OK, I tested this procedure, and it worked out fine. Just a few comments.

 

To get the box out of the car, you must remove two 10 mm bolts that secure the box bracket from the steering column. This is a pain, but doable.

 

Once the box and metal bracket are removed from the car, there is no reason to remove the bracket from the box before prying open the box.

 

Before beginning to pry open the box with a screwdriver, note the orientation of the circuit board in the box so you don't destroy any circuit board components by prying on them. As the instructions say, it takes a lot of prying to get the circuit board out of the glue at the bottom of the box.

[peteyjr]

I just stumbled upon this mod and yes-praise the lord, hallelujia. It is the answer to my prayers. I have been living with the devil (chime) too long.

[RustyShackleford]

I

Also, what's the chance of destroying something on the circuit board when you're ripping the chime apart?

 

Thanks

 

Just de-solder it. Less chance of messing something up, and

you can put if back if you choose (to sell the car, perhaps).

[mlucado]

Wow this worked great. And was actually pretty darn simple.

 

Not sure if anyone else is using Putty Knives, but that worked great for me to pry the box open. I inserted one on each side of the box, to free the clips. Then I worked one side by prying back with the putty knife. Then went back to the other side and did the same.

I made sure while prying that the knife was just barely going around the edge of the inner black plastic piece, so as to avoid all the metal Pin outs. THe advantage of the large putty knife was it applied nice uniform pressure to the entire side.

 

Thanks for the great advice.

 

Of note I also chose to desolder the chime, in case I need to later add it back on for resale.