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HID's Vs. Stock bulbs


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Are those rectangular holes fillable without totally disassembling the projector? I'm kinda scared to actually take that thing apart, knowing me it would never go back together correctly. I have yet to crack open the headlight itself..

 

You know. I guess everyone's taste is different. For me, I'm completely happy with just putting in the HID kits and that's that. I drive down dark streets and the road lights up great!! It's just not worth it to me to take apart headlights, fill holes and this and that. Congrats on your new lights!!

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Damn this thread, it made me buy the apexcone hid kit :lol: hopefully i won't have to do much reaiming.

 

I didn't have to do any reaiming at all with my apexcone. Can't really mess up how the bulbs go in, they have a tab on the base of the bulb that lines up exactly in the headlight housing so it is already aimed correctly just like a factory bulb would be. I would highly recommend getting a pair of surgical gloves for the install. I tapped a bulb against my hand during the install, I had gloves on, no problem.

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Actually, they were not made wrong. Some kits have the wire up and some have it down. Just depends on the kits.

 

that is wrong. you can just decide hey lets put the ignitor on the top or the bottom. this greatly changes output.

 

there are rare instances in kits where it may focus better that way when used in setups not designed for xenon at all, generally 9006s, h4s, etc, but the legacy h7 is def not one of them or pretty much all h7s for that matter.

MAYHEM

#122/22 STS NNJR SCCA

AUTOX4U.COM

 

XENON RETRO GUIDE

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There is an arguement that the yellow hint actually helps you more. In snow it is better as it doesn't blind you and something to do with getting tired also.

 

no argument. it is fact that yellow / amber light is superior, especially in bad weather since the light is not refracted all over the place. however it is not eye pleasing and for most true 4100-4300k is best overall.

 

there are actually yellow xenon capsules rated at about 2500k. also keep in mind there is a difference between a quality xenon capsule that creates the light soley with the gasses inside vs those that are coated to change its kelvin rating. philips ultinon 6000k capsules are crystal clear along with the 5300k osrams.

 

http://www.autolamps-online.com/hidonline/images/completeUltinonwording.jpg

 

oem halogen h7 in the lgt was great and all but in the rain no contest to my hella xenon retro, but not surprised as one of my retro'd lamps puts out about as much or more light then both oem halogen h7s combined.

 

peace

MAYHEM

#122/22 STS NNJR SCCA

AUTOX4U.COM

 

XENON RETRO GUIDE

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So you are saying I am fine to run them as drls, just off a relay that is triggered by the oem circuitry for the drl's and lows correct?

 

yes the drl functions by varying the ground while the + side always has +12-14 so as soon as drl is activated it will trigger a 12v relay no prob.

 

i just pull the master fuse when my car is serviced so some tool isnt flashing my xenons on and off (very bad) when moving my car around and using the ebrake as it triggers drl on manuals. i also turn my lights fully on if im moving my car around quickly so im not doing the same either. dont know how drl works on autos but everytime i release the ebrake they go on.

MAYHEM

#122/22 STS NNJR SCCA

AUTOX4U.COM

 

XENON RETRO GUIDE

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You know what. I'm so sorry it's not up to your standards. But when I drive the car down the street it looks great to me! I can't tell the difference between retro and $140 HID kits. I'm glad I don't have the eye's you have. If I did, I'd be driven crazy every time I drive the car I love. Also, I don't have that much money. All I could afford was the lease of a 2.5i. It's not that important to me to spend all the extra money for retro HID's, I'd rather use that money food.

 

i think you are taking this the wrong way. even the worst xenon kit will seem like a dramatic improvement over stock. what he is saying is that your pattern is not correct.

 

see those dark triangle areas of missing light on both sides of your beam pattern? notice the halogens do not have that at all. also notice my retro is nothing like that. basically if you mess around with the kit and flip the bulb you will no longer have those dark spots and will increase your light output.

 

again check my retro guide, there are pics of properly focused kits in our h7 projector.

 

peace

MAYHEM

#122/22 STS NNJR SCCA

AUTOX4U.COM

 

XENON RETRO GUIDE

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i think you are taking this the wrong way. even the worst xenon kit will seem like a dramatic improvement over stock. what he is saying is that your pattern is not correct.

 

see those dark triangle areas of missing light on both sides of your beam pattern? notice the halogens do not have that at all. also notice my retro is nothing like that. basically if you mess around with the kit and flip the bulb you will no longer have those dark spots and will increase your light output.

 

again check my retro guide, there are pics of properly focused kits in our h7 projector.

 

peace

 

I could of taken it the wrong way, you never know through emails or posting. But he certainly wrote that post as very condescending. Either way, doesn't really matter.

So can these Subaru's have their projectors actually turned upside down? I'd be afraid to take mine apart, even to retro fit. Since they're still under warranty I'd hate to void that if I screw up. The lighting is so much better then the stock, I guess I just don't care.

Maybe one day I'll screw around with it.

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Why are street lamps yellow and not HID-blue?

 

Because the street lamps are old?

 

They haven't burnt out just yet to be replaced?

 

Dunno, but IMO, I like the street lamps to be yellow instead of HIDs simply because it seems more mellow. And nobody cares what the street lamps look like just as long as it lights up the road, right? Whereas car owners upgrade to HIDs simply for aesthetic looks or need more light output because they live around the middle of nowhere, or car owners NEED to upgrade their headlights because the government has better things to spend money on instead of upgrading street lights to HIDs. :spin:

 

 

Anyways, I installed my 4500k pure white DDM HID kit and it looks great compared to OEM, no hint of blue whatsoever, and the cutoff line is so much more sexier than before. :wub:

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2006 SWP 3.0R 5EAT VDC BBQ

 

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You're a brilliant man. I wonder how secure the bulb would be then?

If I remember correctly from a retro I did on my other car, the tab that needs to be cut is for orientation purposes and not one of the tabs that slides into the housing receiver.

ignore him, he'll go away.
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You're a brilliant man. I wonder how secure the bulb would be then?

 

people on this thread have given you great advice, try to search since this topic has been discussed more than once

Current:MY05 SWP wagon - 253/290 :rolleyes: UP, AEM CAI, Invidia Q300, tuned@yimisport

OLD: MY06 GRP - 274/314 :cool:

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If I remember correctly from a retro I did on my other car, the tab that needs to be cut is for orientation purposes and not one of the tabs that slides into the housing receiver.

 

that is correct

Current:MY05 SWP wagon - 253/290 :rolleyes: UP, AEM CAI, Invidia Q300, tuned@yimisport

OLD: MY06 GRP - 274/314 :cool:

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If I remember correctly from a retro I did on my other car, the tab that needs to be cut is for orientation purposes and not one of the tabs that slides into the housing receiver.

 

def look into that becuase for 15 mins of your time you can better you output and get more out of the $$$ you spent on the xenon kit. also fixing that will help mostly with foreground output no so much down the road. people on corners, curbs, etc...

 

 

peace

MAYHEM

#122/22 STS NNJR SCCA

AUTOX4U.COM

 

XENON RETRO GUIDE

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