CMull123 Posted November 28, 2007 Share Posted November 28, 2007 So as I was drivin to work today I notice that my clutch starts spinnin freely while in 3rd or 4th gear after I apply a little more throttle. EXACT same thing that happened when I had to replace my clutch the first time. So I'm onto my 3rd clutch now. As I know Subaru won't cover my clutch, seein how I had to twist their arm to replace my first one, I'm deciding to go with an aftermarket model. I don't need a super racing clutch but I don't wanna go with another Subie one, since I've had 2 go on me. I don't race, I may beat on my car a little but I don't race, and hardly ever launch it. I drive aggresively on the street but that's about it. The car never goes to the dragstrip or AutoX, but I won't turn down a stoplight run if someone wants it. I've got an AccessPort, uppipe, intake, lightened crank pulley and plan on gettin a full exhaust in the future, headers all the way back. I've seen the ACT kits around and a lot of SPEC kits around but don't know about reliability of either. I know I'm prolly gonna go stage 2 with the clutch and flywheel (why not swap the flywheel if I've already got the clutch out?). Please gimme any information about what clutch/flywheel I should go with, what I can expect from a performance clutch, anything you can think of really. Thanx. Corey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deimos Posted November 28, 2007 Share Posted November 28, 2007 the oem clutch is a pain in the ass do some searches lots of posts on the subject, ACT and SPEC are popular Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 Like he said do a search in this forum. I have had my Spec 2+ for about 10,000 miles, with there Flywheel. I love the clutch, it hit's like a fright train. Even in 4th gear. The Flywheel could be a bit heavier for a street car. But with all your mod's you should get one. I find you can't leave it in 5th gear much below 45mph. Here found this in about 1 minute, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64788 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d3v3u5 Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 ACT is reliable for a fair price...I would recommend that but I still don't understand how you've already gone through 2 clutches with those simple mods..I can only conclude your driving style is doing the evil deed. If you had a WRX I can understand but the LGT clutches are more reliable. I had full headers and exhaust on my car...took it around canyons and launched off the line a couple times and feels fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 ACT is reliable for a fair price...I would recommend that but I still don't understand how you've already gone through 2 clutches with those simple mods..I can only conclude your driving style is doing the evil deed. If you had a WRX I can understand but the LGT clutches are more reliable. I had full headers and exhaust on my car...took it around canyons and launched off the line a couple times and feels fine. I see it appears you sold your car, it was an 06... To OP, yes the OEM clutches suck. This is my 3rd Legacy GT, a 98', a 00' and the 05. All 3 would slip the clutch when you backed up when there a couple of inches of snow on the ground. After Cobb AP and a boost controller my car ran 13.9's launching at 6000rpm with the OEM clutch. That was only done a few times. Just aggressive driving will make the clutch slip, no different driving style than I did with my Honda's. I drove a Honda clutch for 196,000 miles before 8 psi of boost made the clutch break, and that was, one of the springs fell out of the disc. Go with a Spec 2+. BTW install the STI tranny mount or something better, the car will shift better. Less driveline movement. Didn't notice if you had a short throw shifter. I have the STI, don't waste your money on it, buy an after market one, check out Cobb Tuning. I enjoy my car more with the Spec setup, but it's still not a Honda. BTW I have 81,000 miles on my 05GT. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMull123 Posted November 29, 2007 Author Share Posted November 29, 2007 As an added question, after I get an aftermarket clutch in there, would I hafta worry about anything else breaking? Meaning; since the clutch will no longer be a weak point, what would be the next thing to go? Also, what is the difference between a multi-puck clutch and a full face clutch? I'm lookin for sumthin that is very streetable but can also tear it up when I need it do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 I don't know why I bother.......... BullyClutches 06+ WRX conversion with either an 06 rex flywheel or an ACT one. You won't get it because it costs more then ACT. I think it is somewhat superior. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qikslvr Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 Just be prepared for drivetrain/tranny whine and gear mesh noise when you put in an aluminum flywheel and STI mount. I have a SPEC Stg2 and LWFW and I love the way it hooks up and holds, but there is some chatter off the line and some considerable gear noise when coasting in 3rd,4th; especially when I have the STI hardened mount in. It real grabby off the line and in stop and go traffic. I'm just hitting 1500 miles on mine and it's finally starting to smooth out a bit. BTW I'm at TDC Stage2.5 pushing 273WHP/313WTQ(calculated) and everything else is holding up just fine. The only issue I have now is that I've bounce the tranny off the floor boards a couple times while shifting 1st to 2nd during a WOT run. The STI mount takes care of this, but at the cost of gear noise. I just swap mounts when I go to the track. Now instead of the clutch slipping; it spins the tires when full boost hits. If you don't do the 6K clutch dump you should be fine. People have made it to 400+WHP without many failures as long as you know how to drive it right. Let's kick this pig! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 Mine has just developed the 3rd 4th gear noise when coasting. with in the last 500 miles or so. I've had the set up in since late June when it was released. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opie Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 54k original clutch...learn to drive! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boostjunkie Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 54k original clutch...learn to drive! +1! Had 36K miles when I swapped to a new 6 puck clutch because I had my engine out anyways. The OEM clutch was in perfect shape, with at least another 36K miles left on it. My car has been modded since practically day one and the last 5K miles or so with anywhere from 355 to 400whp. I also recently did a clutch for a friend. Over 70K miles on it. It was pretty worn, but still perfectly functional. The first 40K or so were at Stage 2 and the last 30K or so with an 18g making over 300whp. The stock clutch is just fine if you don't slip it unnecessarily. Mind you, both my car and my friend's have been to open track days and the drag strip multiple times, so we are not driving them around like grandma. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDII Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 BJ, How is the 6-puck with daily drivability? I had the ACT 4 puck on my last LGT and it was butter. Need forum help? Private Message legGTLT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boostjunkie Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 BJ, How is the 6-puck with daily drivability? I had the ACT 4 puck on my last LGT and it was butter. Kind of marginal. Bit too chattery on occasion to be truly comfortable on a daily driver. Doesn't do it all the time though. The pedal effort is only a touch heavier than stock, so that part is no problem at all. All in all, unless you need the torque holding capacity of the 6 puck, stay with the full facing disk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 54k original clutch...learn to drive! Not very cute, Opie Did you miss this statement ? "I drove a Honda clutch for 196,000 miles before 8 psi of boost made the clutch break, and that was, one of the springs fell out of the disc". That same Civic ran a 9.85 1/4 mile @ 145mph with a 1.6L and 35psi of boost. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDII Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 Kind of marginal. Bit too chattery on occasion to be truly comfortable on a daily driver. Doesn't do it all the time though. The pedal effort is only a touch heavier than stock, so that part is no problem at all. All in all, unless you need the torque holding capacity of the 6 puck, stay with the full facing disk. Thanks for the info! the 4 puck was a bit chattery too... I think i'll go 6 puck this time. Need forum help? Private Message legGTLT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 When my engine was out also inspected my 15,000 mile old BullyClutch. It looked fine. Hardly any wear at all. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d3v3u5 Posted December 1, 2007 Share Posted December 1, 2007 i was only at 20k+ miles hehe paul your clutch wasnt chattering i thought...it's not like a cusco twin plate or anything...but you're right you usually a 6-puck tends to be noisier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boostjunkie Posted December 3, 2007 Share Posted December 3, 2007 i was only at 20k+ miles hehe paul your clutch wasnt chattering i thought...it's not like a cusco twin plate or anything...but you're right you usually a 6-puck tends to be noisier. No chattering at idle like a twin-plate. I'd kill myself if I had to listen to that every day. The 6 puck is no louder than stock, but it occasionally shudders on engagement as you pull away from a stop. There is a fine line of how much you can slip it and at what rpm to avoid the shudder, which can be pretty violent if you get it entirely wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d3v3u5 Posted December 4, 2007 Share Posted December 4, 2007 No chattering at idle like a twin-plate. I'd kill myself if I had to listen to that every day. The 6 puck is no louder than stock, but it occasionally shudders on engagement as you pull away from a stop. There is a fine line of how much you can slip it and at what rpm to avoid the shudder, which can be pretty violent if you get it entirely wrong. haha i know what you mean i've had some time to test that out myself on some of the cars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDII Posted December 4, 2007 Share Posted December 4, 2007 No chattering at idle like a twin-plate. I'd kill myself if I had to listen to that every day. The 6 puck is no louder than stock, but it occasionally shudders on engagement as you pull away from a stop. There is a fine line of how much you can slip it and at what rpm to avoid the shudder, which can be pretty violent if you get it entirely wrong. did you have a well defined sweet spot on yours? I did.... and let me tell you that it locked right up Need forum help? Private Message legGTLT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boostjunkie Posted December 5, 2007 Share Posted December 5, 2007 did you have a well defined sweet spot on yours? I did.... and let me tell you that it locked right up I've got it pretty much figured out. You either have to slip it a bit more than you would a stock clutch or engage it really quick and almost stall the car when pulling away from a stop. Works well either way and I'm used to it now. It's just a bit of a pain when you are in stock and go LA freeway traffic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opie Posted December 6, 2007 Share Posted December 6, 2007 Not very cute, Opie Did you miss this statement ? "I drove a Honda clutch for 196,000 miles before 8 psi of boost made the clutch break, and that was, one of the springs fell out of the disc". That same Civic ran a 9.85 1/4 mile @ 145mph with a 1.6L and 35psi of boost. Apples to oranges... Honda=2WD, dump clutch and the tires slip, not the clutch. Subaru=AWD, dump the clutch and it slips, not the tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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