Zanatech Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 was going to change my rotors, but i couldn't get the caliper support bracket off. is there some special tool or anything to use? 17 mm socket/wrench correct? i mean we got the socket to jump when trying to break the bolts free... clockwise force and counter clockwise, also after heating them slightly. think i should just have the dealership "break them free" when i go in for an unrelated issue later this week and just have them tighten them down with handtools for the extremely long (~2 miles in 25 mph speed area) drive home? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaGe Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 drench them with PB and walk away for a while. keep hitting them with some PB to free them up. OTM. Sorry I didn't mean to start a war which mainly forum people is all about . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 Its hard to describe but there is an "inside nut" that you have to hold (17mm IIRC) as well as the nut. Look in the vacation pics here -> Tuning\Legacy GT Manual\12 - Brakes\Brakes\03 - Front Disc Rotor.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 was going to change my rotors, but i couldn't get the caliper support bracket off. is there some special tool or anything to use? 17 mm socket/wrench correct? i mean we got the socket to jump when trying to break the bolts free... clockwise force and counter clockwise, also after heating them slightly. think i should just have the dealership "break them free" when i go in for an unrelated issue later this week and just have them tighten them down with handtools for the extremely long (~2 miles in 25 mph speed area) drive home? did you see my FAQ on how to swap rotors??? take a mallet to the end of your breaker bar if you have to to get some torque on the bolt to get them out. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebpda9 Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 i had the same problem. in the end the bolt heads snapped off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 ^ doh!!!! Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zanatech Posted September 28, 2007 Author Share Posted September 28, 2007 did you see my FAQ on how to swap rotors??? take a mallet to the end of your breaker bar if you have to to get some torque on the bolt to get them out. yup saw it after i posted that, went to the dealership (they had one bolt break off for them). all in all $120 for installing 4 rotors and pads isn't that bad i think. btw Xenok i love your car, its pretty BA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Ed Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 not bad at all...i just got a quote for 500 to cut my rotors and install new pads...and that isn't including the pads yup saw it after i posted that, went to the dealership (they had one bolt break off for them). all in all $120 for installing 4 rotors and pads isn't that bad i think. btw Xenok i love your car, its pretty BA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 I've been looking around at rotors and brake talk... seems like most are going with the slotted rotors. What about cross drilled? Why haven't I heard much about that here? Has it given problems to some of the subarus? I had 13" cross drilled rotors on my saleen and they worked great. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taskforcefreddy Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 I have the R1 D&S Rotors and for the price, I couldn't be happier. They perform much better than stock. I know they're not in the same class as other big name rotors but for the price, you can't go wrong. I don't do any type of racing with mine though. I guess you have to ask yourself what you want to do with the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fweasel Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 I've been looking around at rotors and brake talk... seems like most are going with the slotted rotors. What about cross drilled? Blank rotors are all that most people will ever need. The internal venting of aftermarket rotors is where most of the performance comes from. I went with slotted because it was the only option on the higher end two piece rotors I chose to use for track use, otherwise, I would have gone with blanks. Most people choose slotted and cross drilled rotors for looks, IMO. From my reading, including Stoptech's website, cross drilled rotors have more drawbacks then advantages. ignore him, he'll go away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 ^^^^ don't listen to him, cracked rotors are fun Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted January 13, 2008 Share Posted January 13, 2008 I'm the firs to admit I think cross drilled and even slotted rotors look 100 times better than blanks. I may track or autox the car SOME day when I dont' make a living by driving a reliable care that CANNOT break down. Until then I am looking to replace the rotors when the time comes and just wanted to get an idea of what I might do.... sounds like slotted is the most popular.... and HPS Hawk pads.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.