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Syms (JDM) wheels for Subarus!!


Xenonk

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I'm digging the ones at the very bottom of the page. Did I read the price right? $1350 PER WHEEL????? Of course I like the most expensive ones best! Are they magnesium or something? And I thought the forged STI BBS were expensive.
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YES, YOU ARE READING IT CORRECTLY, IT'S MAGNESIUM. Well over what you pay for Forged. Well, I think the current exchange rate is 120 yen = $1.. so even after the shipping costs, it's going to be around $1350 a wheel anyways. I think those suckers are around 15 lbs or so on top of the fact that they only come in one size and it's for Subaru fitment only.. sooo EXCLUSIVE. Keefe
Keefe
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[quote name='Patagonian GT']If that came in a forged version, that would be my obvious choice. The look is perfect. Any ideas on a similar looking rim out there that is more affordable?[/QUOTE] Magnesium is stronger than forged aluminum, hence the ridiculous pricing.. because Magnesium is the way to go. Keefe
Keefe
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[size=3][font=Times New Roman]Don’t the use [color=black]Magnesium to start fires? [/color][/font][/size] [color=black][size=3][font=Times New Roman] [/font][/size][/color] [color=black][url="http://www.safetycentral.com/magfirstarto.html"][u][font=Times New Roman][size=3][color=#800080]http://www.safetycentral.com/magfirstarto.html[/color][/size][/font][/u][/url][/color] [color=black][size=3][font=Times New Roman] [/font][/size][/color] [color=black][font='Times New Roman']Don’t hit a curb or you go up in flames. :lol: [/font][/color]
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[quote name='Xenonk']yea, I can find you rims like that.. do you want cast or forged?? and price range? Keefe[/QUOTE] I am open to ideas. I really like the Prodrive GC-010s as well, just haven't decided that spending that kinda cash makes sense. I want a good-looking wheel that is high-quality, strong and light. Beyond that, I am open to anything. I don't want knock-off brands unless (Rota would be the exeception).
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[quote name='rclark0032'][size=3][font=Times New Roman]Don’t the use [color=black]Magnesium to start fires? [/color][/font][/size] [color=black][size=3][font=Times New Roman] [/font][/size][/color] [color=black][url="http://www.safetycentral.com/magfirstarto.html"][u][font=Times New Roman][size=3][color=#800080]http://www.safetycentral.com/magfirstarto.html[/color][/size][/font][/u][/url][/color] [color=black][size=3][font=Times New Roman] [/font][/size][/color] [color=black][font='Times New Roman']Don’t hit a curb or you go up in flames. :lol: [/font][/color][/QUOTE] Why does everyone think it's a raw piece of magnesium?? It's mag-alloy.. it's not going to burst into flames. Keefe
Keefe
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[quote name='Xenonk']Well, I think the current exchange rate is 120 yen = $1.. [/QUOTE] Actually, I think the Japanese yen is still overly strong and it is around 107yen to the dollar at the moment. Bleah. That is what is keeping prices from here up. IMHO, in terms of buying power it should be more like 150yen to the dollar. Cheers, Paul Hansen [url]www.avoturboworld.com[/url] [url]www.apexjapan.com[/url]
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[quote name='Patagonian GT']I am open to ideas. I really like the Prodrive GC-010s as well, just haven't decided that spending that kinda cash makes sense. I want a good-looking wheel that is high-quality, strong and light. Beyond that, I am open to anything. I don't want knock-off brands unless (Rota would be the exeception).[/QUOTE] Hey I have "knock off" brands as well for my other rims.. I was skeptic at first, but after doing some research on particular companies, I realize that the company was just new to the market.. some rims within the same company can be crappy, while others are decent (different designs yeild different structural strengths). Let me know what kind of designs you are into, you can PM with size, choice in color, spoke style, lip or no-lip, and price range you want to work with, and I'll point you in a direction. Keefe
Keefe
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[quote name='Xenonk']Hey I have "knock off" brands as well for my other rims.. I was skeptic at first, but after doing some research on particular companies, I realize that the company was just new to the market.. some rims within the same company can be crappy, while others are decent (different designs yeild different structural strengths). Let me know what kind of designs you are into, you can PM with size, choice in color, spoke style, lip or no-lip, and price range you want to work with, and I'll point you in a direction. Keefe[/QUOTE] PM'ed ya Keefe
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I thought forged magnesium was stronger than forged aluminum, so therefore can be made thinner, and thus lighter. I was under the impression that magnesium is more brittle. perhaps I heard wrong. I do know that magnesium is very flammable when above a certain temperature, and burns hot once started. Good point about the alloy not being as easy to ignite, but I think it still will burn pretty well if ignited.
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Magnesium is extremely flammable - it is used for windproof matches, flares on fighter jets to fool heat-seeking missiles - it supposedly burns hotter than the sun. Once it starts burning, it is almost impossible to extinguish (it even burns underwater). Magnesium, like aluminum and titanium, is a metallic powder in it's pure state. Like titanium, nobody uses it this way for metal products. They are alloyed with other metals like chromium, vanadium, molybdenum and sometimes each other to give them better characteristics like yield strength, fatigue, and mode of failure. Look at bicycle frames - they have been made of everything from carbon steel, 4130 chromoly steel, various aluminum alloys, different blends of titanium, heck even a $25K beryllium frame. Titanium seems to be the best mix - greater fatigue strength than brittle aluminum. The key is the ability to work the metal (some of the more promising blends of titanium are notoriously hard and difficult to cut and weld), whether it be how the material is cut, shaped, bent, forged, cast, welded, glued, or extruded. Beryllium is a super light metal that has great characteristics, but it is insanely expensive and the gas given off from welding it is deadly. Not a good choice for anything but an aerospace budget (which is where it is mainly used along with titanium). Bottom line is that a magnesium wheel is NOT flammable, even though the raw material is. Magnesium is the main component of the alloy, but it is not the only one.
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Keefe - I found some 18x7.5 and 48 offset Linea Limix wheels for a good deal in bronze, but they have 225/35/18 AVS Sport tires in good shape. I read the sticky about this tire size - not the best choice for street driving (better torque and low-end but at the expense of top end). Is this tire size enough of an issue to walk away from the deal? I am not sure the guy will come off the price enough to make it a good enough deal that I can swing new tires for less than what the same new wheels and tires would cost me. Basically, if I run those tires until they need to be replaced, would you see any issues with that? I like the look and quality of the wheels, so I am tempted to swing for them. Thanks! Dan
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Dan, for daily driving, I wouldnt recommend that around here in the DC area. A 225/40 would be better.. what you COULD do is once you get the rims and tires, sell the tires off and use the money to get a correct set of tires. However, if you plan on autocrossing and such, that tire size is pretty good for autocrossing use or track use. Ask for a lower price if possible.. 225/35/18 is really low profile for a tire.. it's only tempted for autocrossing use. Keefe
Keefe
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[quote name='Xenonk']Dan, for daily driving, I wouldnt recommend that around here in the DC area. A 225/40 would be better.. what you COULD do is once you get the rims and tires, sell the tires off and use the money to get a correct set of tires. However, if you plan on autocrossing and such, that tire size is pretty good for autocrossing use or track use. Ask for a lower price if possible.. 225/35/18 is really low profile for a tire.. it's only tempted for autocrossing use. Keefe[/QUOTE] Cool - thanks for confirming what I thought. The wheels looks identical to some that Syms offers (SRW-C2) - are they the same wheels re-branded for the US? The offset on the Syms 18x7.5 is 52mm while the Linea is 48mm. Will the size and offset on the Linieas look factory, in other words will they tuck in under the fenders properly? I hate it when I see cars with improper offset and the wheels extend beyond the wheel well, if only by a small amount.
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[quote name='Patagonian GT']Cool - thanks for confirming what I thought. The wheels looks identical to some that Syms offers (SRW-C2) - are they the same wheels re-branded for the US? The offset on the Syms 18x7.5 is 52mm while the Linea is 48mm. Will the size and offset on the Linieas look factory, in other words will they tuck in under the fenders properly? I hate it when I see cars with improper offset and the wheels extend beyond the wheel well, if only by a small amount.[/QUOTE] The Syms Rim you see on their website is a Limix rim. Syms carries them and market them as their choice of wheel. The rims come a few offsets (for caliper clearance reasons mainly, but for this case, it's negliable). Both sets will tuck in properly.. but the 52mm offset will look more stock and set in the fender more.. the 48mm is to push the wheels out some to give it a better stance. The only time when you will see the tire stick out PAST the fenders is if you subtract from 7~12mm (.28" ~ .5" further out) from the offset numbers I posted on my Sticky FAQ on offsets. I dont mind my tire sitting flush with the fender so long as when the car is under compression, the wheel swings up and into the fender (camber will also play in a role in the equation as well). Keefe
Keefe
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[quote name='Xenonk']The Syms Rim you see on their website is a Limix rim. Syms carries them and market them as their choice of wheel. The rims come a few offsets (for caliper clearance reasons mainly, but for this case, it's negliable). Both sets will tuck in properly.. but the 52mm offset will look more stock and set in the fender more.. the 48mm is to push the wheels out some to give it a better stance. The only time when you will see the tire stick out PAST the fenders is if you subtract from 7~12mm (.28" ~ .5" further out) from the offset numbers I posted on my Sticky FAQ on offsets. I dont mind my tire sitting flush with the fender so long as when the car is under compression, the wheel swings up and into the fender (camber will also play in a role in the equation as well). Keefe[/QUOTE] Thanks again - made the guy an offer on the wheels (no tires). We'll seewhat he says - sounds pretty motivated to sell them. I will buy some 225/40/18 Michelin Pilots or Bridgestone SO-3s if he agrees.
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