fatbastard Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 I recently picked up a gutted UP and DP from Groff and I am thinking about trying the install on my own. I took a look at the vacation pics and it looks like the UP might be easiest if I drop the manifold and use the flex in the xover pipe to allow me to get the studs in place. I assume if I break this connection I should replace the head/exhaust manifold gasket (14038AA000) right? In addition I will need the manifold to UP (44022AA170) and UP to turbo (44022AA150) gasket. For the gutted DP I'll need the turbo to DP (44022AA180) and the DP to MP (44011FE000) gasket. I was trying to save some money but should I just pay someone and not deal with the headache? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02BlkRex Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 I've never done an UP but I've heard it is a pain. I have however put on a DP (full turboback actually) and it was way easier than I had planned. Just make sure you take the intercooler off so you can get to the top bolts of the DP easily. Some people say you don't have to take it off and I'm sure they are right...but it will save you time and frustration if you do. Good luck! BTW, for the DP to turbo connection, I reused the gaskets and so far I have no leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joon525 Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 I tackled my uppipe and downpipe on my own after reading through some walkthroughs and looking at some pictures/diagrams. I can honestly say that it was a lot easier than what I had anticipated. I think it really comes down to how much your time is worth. If you pay someone to do it who's done it before you'll get it done quicker than if you did it alone for your first time. You could also take the middle ground and have someone help you who's done it before. So again, what's your time worth to you? I bought ALL new gaskets to ensure that there were no leaks and I also used threadlock on the bolts that connect the uppipe to the turbo and locking washers on the top two bolts that connect the downpipe to the turbo's hotside. While this is a little overboard I did it to ensure that I didn't have to do it all over again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDII Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 Shop around for the best deal on the install... I've seen it as low as $100 and as high as $500 If you install it yourself have someone with you who knows what they are doing (if you don't already) Need forum help? Private Message legGTLT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisted Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 i got mine installed for 120. If you can remove all shields etc from above and underneath , a day in advance your install will go quicker. Plus why not just do it right and get a nice Up and DP instead of gutted once. I dont think you want to do the UP/DP install again and again. Do it right the first time. Preferably use factory gaskets over copper ones and dont put anything (shields) back together before heat-cycle and retorque Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatbastard Posted June 1, 2007 Author Share Posted June 1, 2007 Thanks for the info...I'll have to think about this one. I have fairly limited tools and I can envision major headaches half way through. But at the same time I really like doing things myself. As for why to run gutted pipes...first tehy are a lot cheaper, two they look stock so it is more difficult to tell the car is modified and from a few threads I saw there weren't huge differences unless you are going to a bigger turbo. I don't plan on a bigger turbo for quite some time if ever and if I do there will be plenty of other work involved that replacing the DP won't seem like an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waxiboy Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 Drop the exhaust manifolds and x-pipe as one piece. Also, make sure you use new gaskets, OEM FTW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infamous1 Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 The install is not as hard as some say, it is somewhat time consuming however on your first go at it. Only a few hand tools are required not much room for any torque wrenching. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew.anderson Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 Whatever you decide....good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewLegGT67 Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 You live in NJ. PM Dplacen. He did my STI uppipe. BTW - Dplacen (Delvin) is a Subaru Tech. I'm probably the only person that has Wu-Tang Clan and Paul McCartney on their mp3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmself11 Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 You can do it. I just did my second one. It just takes time. It can get a little frustrating but just have a second person to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 do it. its easy. If you need any help though, let me know. Im fairly close to you. I know all the tricks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatbastard Posted June 2, 2007 Author Share Posted June 2, 2007 Well if the weather holds out I have to finish my sway bar install. Still need to get the front on and the reinforcement brackets on teh rear....if that goes without too much cursing I'll probably try this on my own....if I encounter a crap load of rediculously tight/rusted bolts I'll be talking to whitetiger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lawl Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 shrug. i consider myself semi competent, but it seems tons of people have leaks. if i get it done by some who knows their way around the car, at least they could help me out later on if something needs adjusting or tightening. i can mess with suspension and catbacks and stuff but messing with the engine scares me car for sale. PM me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02BlkRex Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 shrug. i consider myself semi competent, but it seems tons of people have leaks. if i get it done by some who knows their way around the car, at least they could help me out later on if something needs adjusting or tightening. i can mess with suspension and catbacks and stuff but messing with the engine scares me you aren't messing with the engine on an UP/DP install. just stuff a rag in the turbo inlets/outlets to make sure nothing gets in there and you'll be fine. i think the golden rule to guard against leaks is to wait for a couple heat cycles and then re-tighten everything. i haven't re-tightened and i don't have any leaks so far but i am probably one of the lucky ones. the DP install was cake and i've never done one before that. the UP will probably be a different story and i can't offer any advice there because i bought an '07 that is already catless there. i personally would be more scared messing with suspension stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qikslvr Posted June 5, 2007 Share Posted June 5, 2007 I bought ALL new gaskets to ensure that there were no leaks and I also used threadlock on the bolts that connect the uppipe to the turbo and locking washers on the top two bolts that connect the downpipe to the turbo's hotside. While this is a little overboard I did it to ensure that I didn't have to do it all over again. I did my UP/DP a couple weeks ago. Your method of bolting up sounds great. I put about 200 miles on the new parts and crawled back in there to check bolts and tighten them up again because I've been smelling some exhuast. One of the nuts on the DP was gone (different one than was missing from OE DP when I took it apart) and the bottom UP bolts were a little loose also. Locktite or lock washers should be used IMO since these connections have a tendency to vibe the nuts of the bolts overtime. Good call! Let's kick this pig! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02BlkRex Posted June 5, 2007 Share Posted June 5, 2007 also, don't listen to the torque specs...tighten that mofo down as tight as you can! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted June 5, 2007 Share Posted June 5, 2007 ^+infinity Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedracerx Posted June 7, 2007 Share Posted June 7, 2007 The UP is definitely more work than the DP, but is pretty straightforward. We have done a couple of dozen and have it down to less than an hour and a half (but we use a rack and tranny jack). Use PB Blaster to loosen the fasteners first. Also, you will need an O2 socket to pull the front O2. When reinstalling the O2, make sure you reverse wind the wire. You really don't need to remove the exhaust manifold, just loosen the motor mounts and use a floor jack to raise the motor on the pass. side (be real careful here) to be able to pull out the UP. Use new FACTORY gaskets...the only time we have leaks are with aftermarket gaskets! Also, plug the EGT sensor hole with a bolt or use the EGT probe, but clip off the actual probe end (part that sticks into the UP). Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G.T.Subie Posted June 7, 2007 Share Posted June 7, 2007 do it. its easy. If you need any help though, let me know. Im fairly close to you. I know all the tricks He aint lyin. Any doubts got to the Tiger. Denial is your best friend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM-STI Posted June 7, 2007 Share Posted June 7, 2007 Follow these instructions and you will be golden. And use new OEM gaskets. A good socket set, ramps, 02 socket, and some time is about all you will need. http://www.pde-usa.com/downloads/installs/PDE-1003_install.doc 05 STI CGM~520whp/463wtq...more to come! 08 STI Aspen White/Gold BBS~305whp/365wtq:D Both tuned by Scott Siegel! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.