Those of you who have waxed their wagon...

[TeeLoo]

Just wondering if I should prevent wax from going on the roof rails (using 3M masking tape for example, you know the tape that sticks but is easily removable) and whether the roof rail surface is porous or non-porous. I believe the roof rails are aluminum and low-gloss black painted. When I took delivery of my car there were wax residues on the black trimmings where the side mirrors are, amateurs!:mad: ...and of course on the black trimming where the hatch is (top of rear bumber). I'm projecting to wax my car this week-end and thanks to you "maintenance maniacs" on this forum, I will use Meguiar's Quick Clay Detailing System. I will then wax using Zymol. I will use microfiber towels to wipe the stuff (clay/quick detailer spray and wax). Finally, I will use a 10" orbital buffer for final finish. How many hours shoud I budget for this job granted I have to wash the car first (that takes me at least 1 hour).

[liquidiq]

When I do a full claybar, it takes me about 4-5 hours. But that's with drink breaks like every 30 min ;)

[c_hunter]

Depends on the wax. I use Klasse, and it's fine on everything. Craig

[bemani]

[quote name='TeeLoo'] How many hours shoud I budget for this job granted I have to wash the car first (that takes me at least 1 hour).[/QUOTE] I give about a week. That's a Sunday of wash/clay bar and just about every night after work waxing. Of course I don't drive my car that whole week. I don't think there's any problem with wax being on the roof rail. Having the sunroof open makes waxing/clay bar'ing the roof so much easier :)

[Legacy_Fan]

Takes me about a hour and a half with meguires NXT and it comes out great. It would be better to wax it quick every couple months that this big production every 6 months. There is no need for a buffer on a brand new car.

[agctr]

Where I am in Australia it doesnt snow and well I personally dont see the need to use a full wax. Actually I have never waxed a car that I have owned so I dont really know what you guys go thru but Im sure its a lot. I use a wash on my car that has a wax in it but I've never actually use a wax by itself. I have honestly had a guy that pimps out GT-R's ask me if I have a had a special coat put ontop of my paint, I said no, it might be the stuff I use. I know alot of guys in the states have to wax because of the conditions and the salt on the roads, thankfully I dont have to do it here. And snow tyres, what are those???? only kidding. Adam. PS Members, just going to slide this thread into the Exterior Section. Thanks.

[Boostjunkie]

I've gotten my clay time down to around 2 hours. Bear in mind that if you are using one of Zymol's pure waxes you need to polish the surface first. If you skip the polishing step, the underlying surface will not be as smooth and reflective as possible and may show many blemishes. If you are using the off the shelf one step Zymol, then you can skip the polish. Also note that the cheapo Zymol you find at most auto parts stores is an average product at best. Zymol is funny like that. There is a huge spread in quality and price within their line. They actually make a wax that is about $1000 for the jar... no joke. One other suggestion. If you have yet to buy the 10" orbital buffer... don't bother. Almost all of the affordable buffers are worthless. Their motors are much to weak. Most will basically stop spinning and jiggling under the slightest pressure. Don't waste your money. There are a few very good products such as the Porter Cable 7424, but most are junk. You will do just as well to apply and remove by hand. Even by hand, it shouldn't take you much more than around 1-2 hours to aplly/remove. If you are doing separate polish and wax steps, figure another hour or so. All told, figure the better part of a day, once you add in breaks and meals.

[sduford]

[quote name='bemani']I give about a week. That's a Sunday of wash/clay bar and just about every night after work waxing. Of course I don't drive my car that whole week. [/QUOTE] You guys are maniacs! I bet you don't treat your girl friends nearly as well as your car! :D

[racerdave]

Yeah, that 4-hour clay bar thing is obsessive-compulsive. ;) You can't pry the bottle of Nu-Finish out of my cold, dead hands. :D

[Chupacabra]

[quote name='agctr']Where I am in Australia it doesnt snow and well I personally dont see the need to use a full wax. [/QUOTE] Wax doesn't really have anything to do with snow. View it as a protective layer for road grime, acid rain, chemicals, and UV light. It won't protect your paint from a rock ding, but a good wax will protect it from most chemical damage (bird poop). Especially in AU, I'd imagine, UV protection is critical. To answer the original question, you can find plenty of waxes which won't dry white on plastic. My personal favorite is Zaino, but it's a little expensive and takes a while to apply. You can also look at P21S (an excellent carnauba) or Wolfgang Sealant

[gtguy]

You boys is crazed! You should only clay the car when the paint feels rough to the touch. Wash it, dry it, then rub your clean hands over the finish. If it feels rough, clay it. If not, proceed to the waxing step. I clay my car maybe twice a year, usually after the winter driving season, and at some point during the summer. Never forget that clay is an eraser, essentially. Too much clay can be bad. For me, it's about two hours, total. Claying should take about 20 minutes or so, if you need to do it. I use the Porter Cable random orbital sold through Griot's Garage. A friend saved some money by buying the "same" orbital, model 7424, but we noticed that the Griot's model has a bigger, nicer backing plate that didn't get as hot when working the paint. I was sold. Don't worry about getting wax on the rails. It comes right off, just as easily as it does on the paint. Kevin

[Ken S]

[quote name='c_hunter']Depends on the wax. I use Klasse, and it's fine on everything. Craig[/QUOTE] Yup, Klassse works on pretty much any surface, leaves no residue and leaves a long lasting shine. It'll even work well on black molded plastics without leaving any white residue. I use it on every surface of the car except the tires. Ken

[TeeLoo]

[quote name='gtguy']You boys is crazed! You should only clay the car when the paint feels rough to the touch. Wash it, dry it, then rub your clean hands over the finish. If it feels rough, clay it. If not, proceed to the waxing step. I clay my car maybe twice a year, usually after the winter driving season, and at some point during the summer. Never forget that clay is an eraser, essentially. Too much clay can be bad. For me, it's about two hours, total. Claying should take about 20 minutes or so, if you need to do it. I use the Porter Cable random orbital sold through Griot's Garage. A friend saved some money by buying the "same" orbital, model 7424, but we noticed that the Griot's model has a bigger, nicer backing plate that didn't get as hot when working the paint. I was sold. Don't worry about getting wax on the rails. It comes right off, just as easily as it does on the paint. Kevin[/QUOTE]Thanks Kevin. Obviously the paint feels very smooth after washing/drying the car so I guess I'll postpone the clay treatment for April 2005. What I'm looking for is more of an added protection for our very brutal winter season of salt, gravel, sand, ice, slush, frezzing rain, bitter cold. I'll just wash and wax this week-end. I'll probably buy a carnuba wax. The Zymol product was bought off the shelf (green stuff in plastic bottle) @ $19.99 CAD (Canadian Tire retailer) so I guess it's the cheapo stuff from Zymol, BoostJunkie.

[Guest *Jedimaster*]

Glad to see some people using Klasse in here. Too many Zymol nazis on the intraweb :lol:

[malachii]

Using klasse here also. Works great and lasts all winter. I do the full 2 step process (cleaner and pure sealant). It was tough to find in Canada - a small online company has exclusive distro rights I believe. Mal.

[Ken S]

[quote name='jedimaster']Glad to see some people using Klasse in here. Too many Zymol nazis on the intraweb :lol:[/QUOTE] Werd. :lol: If I owned an exotic car that I needed to display at showrooms, I'd go Zaino or some other uber-wax. But, for ease of application, durability, shine and cost per use on my everyday vehicle, nothing beats Klasse. Ken

[red beast]

i use tire foam spray on ALL my black parts before i use mothers carnuba. the spray leaves a coating so the dried up carnuba doesn't stick.

[bluesuby]

I used Griot's "Best of Show" liquid wax on my wagon this weekend with a foam applicator pad. The trick is don't use an excessive amount of wax; it's a waste and a chore to remove. No problems....looks great.