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Nos Pros And Cons... Not Rice!!


Guest subiecity

NITROUS OXIDE APPLICATIONS..RICE OR NOT?  

70 members have voted

  1. 1. NITROUS OXIDE APPLICATIONS..RICE OR NOT?

    • YES
      29
    • NO
      41


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Paragraphs?

 

very much agree. I am starting to get tired to read his typing, with all those ...... in between.

 

plus, i had already point out most of the option to him already. I dont know what is left for him to do seriously.

 

turbo and supercharger is not nescessary the only thing you can do, but those are the only option if you want decent power, are you following what i am saying???????? It's fine if you dont want to do it, but you can't complain sticking with a NA 4banger and say the car cannot improve much.

Go develop a better ECU mapping, a lighter racing battary, get some racing seats, and remove rear seat if u really love to drag that much.

 

seriously, seriously. Ask anyone out there, it's not the NA engine that sux, it's the weight of the car that makes our weight/hp ratio suck.

 

If you can afford to spend big, rebuild the friggen engine.

If not, and you dont want to keep the car till the day you die, go do a few wet NOS shot everyday, the only person that will suffer will be the next owner of ur car.

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If you are going to use nitrous oxide, please make sure you do the following:

 

1) check the fuel solenoid's seal for compatibility with oxygenated fuels. I had a fuel solenoid seals swell and jam the thing shut. I caught it before the runs so everything was ok but it could have been really bad. what you want to do is expose the solenoid to fuel for a day or two before you use it, then adjust the pintle pre-load to compensate for swelling.

 

2) if you are making your own lines, use proper aeroquip style fittings and make sure you know how to put the ends on right. it is really easy to screw up and have fitting blow off on you. in my case it was in cabin.

 

3) if you are not certain about 2, go to a hydraulic supply shop and have the swage one time use fittings on

 

4) you can get super cheap alloy tanks from any beer or fountain drink supply store. you need to ask them to provide you with a cga 320 (that might be 326 .... they will know which one it is) to AN4 adapter.

 

5) interlock the nitrous solenoid valve to your 02 sensor readings. the $5 circuit I used saved the engine I was tuning on

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Guest subiecity
u custom make your own? very nice what kinda car, how much u use and how were the results would u, as an individual reccomend it...and why interlock the sloenoid valve to my o2 sensor reading...is that to monitor how much input is going thru
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From experience of other NOS users....

 

1) You will alway want to 'squeeze' more than you original started, so eventually NOS will ruin your engine as you going from 30hp per shot to 100+hp per shot

 

2) NOS only gives you few seconds of HP and once the 'power' dies... how are you going to keep ahead of the cars you just out run? Squeeze again? That will ruin your engine

 

3) NOS is a short term solution not a long term solution. By that, I mean, if your goal is to have steady HP, then you should turn towards engine enhancement (not sure what they are, but I am sure there are things you can do on Legacy NA engine that will give you HP with your right foot not your finger :))

 

4) I am not sure if I remember correctly, but you will be using it on the track? And you are thinking of using it once a month? once every 2 months? How would NOS help you on the track? Unless you are doing drag racing. To me, track racing means there will be turns, so not only you need a good engine that produce the proper power you need but your car must be able to handle it.

 

5) BTW, why do people call NOS user RICE??? The last time I check, RICE means some sort of food, right?

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Guest subiecity

lol when i said track i meant 1/4 mile track.... i kno nitrous kits do give u only a few seconds of HP then die out, but it shouldnt matter cuz nitrous will enhance the cars acceleration this is for an everyday driver/track car im going for 1/4 mile with a NA subaru so lets c what happends

 

from what i read and understood its not the nitrous kits that u are using its the way u tweak ur engine to handle the nitrous, stay in the boundries of your engines capabilities, and dont over exceed as kuoman said, otherwise u are absolutely gonna be looking for problems

 

belive it or not nitous is not as bad as it sounds its just rumors that are spread ..hence fast and furios guy using nitrous and pushing the limits and engine rips apart, and i belive it is here where it all started, forgive me for sounding rude but i belive most people wouldnt even kno what NOS is/was if it wasnt for the fast and furios........

if u use a safe dose and the car is minorly/properly tuned after the installation then u should be absolutely fine, but everyone has to underastand this is a safe dose limit of nitrous roughly a 30-50 safe hp gain

 

and for everyone who says there is other engine enhancements for the NA legacies....there absolutely is (for you guys) very little, and i just about got em all already now this is my next step

 

i kno there are a few of u on this board disagreeing with me, and reccomnding other options besides nitrous, understand im just sharing my knowledge with everyone else because we are extremly limited out here with parts, so nitrous to me is a positive choice at this moment

 

this one is for kartracerboy and ambivalance, i still write alot but i thought of u guys b4 i wrote and put paragraphs and commas....but i somehow forgot about periods...i tried

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u custom make your own? very nice what kinda car, how much u use and how were the results would u, as an individual reccomend it...and why interlock the sloenoid valve to my o2 sensor reading...is that to monitor how much input is going thru

 

it was on an Acura Vigor. The engine was a 2.5 with about the same output as the NA legacy engine except it was a 5cylinder (really funny exhaust note). the initial tuning was done with a 30 shot and I slowly worked up to a 55 shot. With an open front diff, that was about all it could plant safely. I built my own kit because I couldn't find what I wanted on the market. The nitrous solenoid was interlocked to the 02 sensor and a few other things for safety. It basically worked this way: I'd turn off the cruise control main switch and hold the cancel button down for 2 seconds. The cruise light would turn on, indicating that the system was now armed (the main nitrous relay would now be powered, but the relay driver was off). Once the cancel button was released and the thottle was put to the floor, the nitrous valve would open if 1) the 02 readings were rich 2) the fuel solenoid current wasn't too high or too low 3) the engine speed was between 2500 and 6500. The user could stop the flow by letting up (system would stay armed) or hitting the cancel button again (system would disarm). If the 02 reading went lean, the system would modulate the nitrous valve to get it rich again. If after 0.2 seconds it couldn't get a rich reading it disarmed.

 

I went through a few tanks. If you are using it on the strip occasionally I'd recommend it. For street spanking, it is not such a good system.

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Guest subiecity
hmm u seemd to have a very interseting system there quite ingenius if u ask me thanks for the reccomndation im gonna take that into consideration
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I forgot to mention that a wet nitrous system keeps your engine spotless :icon_bigg after you've hit it couple times, the car runs better off the juice.

 

You get more for the price of one. lol that is funny.

 

subiecity. Didn't know you were just doing 1/4 mile, I think NOS could be one of the potential solution. Since most cars on track will do 1/4 mile in less than 15 seconds. I don't know any other less-expensive solution and still provide you the 'boost' (I could be wrong, but with my limited knowledge, this is all I can provide)

 

There will always be new guys coming to the track with better cars and eventually, your 30HP is not enough to hold them off and that is when people start pushing and going over the limit without proper engine treatment.

 

One of my friend had NOS on his accord (91 or 92 accord). he was doing fine for almost 2 years until he started adding more dose and he blew his cylinder twice in less than 6 months and the cost and time of fixing it cost him dearly.....

His final advise, if you want long term solution with potential to gain more HP, then NOS is not a great idea, but if you can restraint yourself from being 'trigger happy' and take care of your engine, then NOS is one potential solution :icon_mrgr

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i understand the wet and dry differences but the companies reccomned the "wet" kits for turbo or supercharged cars im now curious to why the dry isnt used ...im guessing when the dry shot is pumped into your intake probaly u lose some nitrous in the process and a wet shot is a more of a direct appliction hmmm lots of decisions
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One of my friend had NOS on his accord (91 or 92 accord). he was doing fine for almost 2 years until he started adding more dose and he blew his cylinder twice in less than 6 months and the cost and time of fixing it cost him dearly.....

 

 

did he do any tuning on that car ? those hondas will run lean as hell at redline.

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i understand the wet and dry differences but the companies reccomned the "wet" kits for turbo or supercharged cars im now curious to why the dry isnt used ...im guessing when the dry shot is pumped into your intake probaly u lose some nitrous in the process and a wet shot is a more of a direct appliction hmmm lots of decisions

 

it is a lot easier to tune a wet setup. the dry setups depend on jacking up the fuel pressure to provide the additional fuel. it is hard to predict how much extra flow you will get with augmented fuel pressure. with a wet setup you just change the fuel jet.

 

if you use a dry setup on a turbo car, the fuel pressure will be astronomical, possibly causing your injectors to not open.

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Guest subiecity
so on a NA car a "wet" setup is more managable/reliable/ and overall better...but if the "wet" setup is soo good.....why have they created a dry application? there must be some reason
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so on a NA car a "wet" setup is more managable/reliable/ and overall better...but if the "wet" setup is soo good.....why have they created a dry application? there must be some reason

Small shot dry setups are cheaper to build.

 

I'd go with a custom wet setup. It shouldn't cost you more than 250 to build using better parts than those found in most kits. If this is your first kit, I'd pick something easier to tune.

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it's not the nitrous that destroys your engine... it's the afr you run... obviously, if it's too lean, you'll detonate and blow her up... wet systems are a lot more "safe" because the added fuel cools down combustion chamber temps..
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so on a NA car a "wet" setup is more managable/reliable/ and overall better...but if the "wet" setup is soo good.....why have they created a dry application? there must be some reason

 

 

dry is the cheap way, while wet is the more expensive way. yes you can buld your own wet kit, but you have to know what you are doing. In your case, for the hp target you are going for, a dry kit may suit you. I believe a zex kit wont be more than a few hundred bux. Just remember, your engine was not built for this application so you have to take it easy. Proper tuning is a must. you cant tjust slap a kit on and drive unless you have a way to monitor your AFRs and EGTs so you dont run too lean. so like anything else, it may end up not being so cheap.

 

I personally thing the weight reduciton and engine buld route is better for you if you are set on racing. a light weight car with a built engine with a high compression ratio would be a better all around race car and plus it would be a nice autox car too. Then you could add nitrous later on and the engine would be better off for it.

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Guest subiecity

yea i agree with u whitetiger tryna go lighter and with a stronger engine, but unfortunatly taking out the backseat wont be enuf weight off he car....i wonder how hard it is for the subie back seats to come out i gotta look into that, but im guesssing with all the reinforcing it just comes out to be a real heavy built car, dont get me wrong i love it to death but i think for autoX theres not too much i can do with it to lighten it

 

my brothers car he uses a honda for autox, its a 99 civic lx (4 door) no back seat, lighter rims, cold air intake, headers, hi flow cat, w/catback exhaust, new spark plugs and ignition system with all full grounding, shit i took his honda out 2 days ago and i can tell u right now that cars 0-60 time defintily is faster the my na subaru, the throttle response is rediculous ,i literally spun my tires evvveryywhere..and the car is auto, for autox i shoulda went with an old skool mr2 or delsol just cuz its soo small and light....

 

hmm i just relized i wonder if an ignition system for our subarus would do any good.....but with an ignition system im sure id have trouble with nitrous, i belive the ignition systems provide more power to the spark plugs and in turn burn the gas more "efficiently" , and with nitrous im sure that would be problem, the car would run tooo lean

 

anybody have 1st hand experience with ignition systems lol i kno it goes good with the hondas and acuras i wonder how a subie will respond to it

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hondas and acuras have very weak ignition coils to deal with. from what i have noticed subaru's are a lot stronger and not used to their full potential. aslo i noticed that the gas mileage improved in my 92 accord and the 92 integra just bygoing with an aftermarket coil. keep in mind that subaru uses a 2 coil, 2 channel distributorless ignition system.
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I dont think so. dont worry about your spark quality untill you are doing other things with your engine. There are different tuning companies out ther who sell staged NA blocks. this is somthing you should look in to, but again, its all more expensive than doing forced induction. doing ignition and fuel upgrades on your NA block are just supporting mods for somthing more. by themselves, they will get you no significant gains. They will just be looking pretty in your engine bay.
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haha u can say that again i went all down that road, lookng to swap out intake manifolds with the sti's (highly doubt any gains)...same with the fuel rails.....still a no go....as of right now i have not much for performance heres a small list

 

-1piece aluminum cold air intake off a 91 outback but stock airbox with knn hi flow filter

 

-agency power lightweight crankshaft pulley...weighs exaclty 1lb

 

-perrin axlebacks (waitng for a good exhaust system to come out w/headers)

 

-lighter rims and tires

 

..everything else is suspension mods and appearence, im gonnna dyno it hopefully soon...im curious if i got any gains with the minor mods i have whatta u guys think

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