If it weren't for the shifter...

[TSiWRX]

Also try adjusting your technique in shifting.

 

I agree wholeheartedly.

 

Remember that every car is different, and what worked for you in your last car may or may not translate to your new Legacy.

 

It took me quite a while to get used to the stick on my LGT. I came from an immediate-past vehicle of a B&M short-throw and GReddy CounterWeight knob equipped 2Ga DSM, which had a rifle-bolt action that, combined with its ultra-short throw distances and the ACT 2600 clutch I'd paired it with, required truly "hammering the shifts home" for the smoothest shifts.

 

This is distinctly different from how my LGT likes to be shifted.

 

Before you start changing hardware components, see about changing your own shift techniques to better match this vehicle. It's only then, in my very humble opinion, that you should think about changing hardware setup to seek your ideal shift-feel.

 

Remember that what works well for one person may not for another. Some of us here prefer to have a certain "feel" that may be objectionable to others. For example, on simply the issue of stick stalk height, there's a lot of differing opinions - and this is also readily seen with the issue of both the front and rear shifter bushings, which while some members prefer to have, others distinctly complain about how they change the feel of shifts.

 

[forestir]

Also try adjusting your technique in shifting. Bob Bondurant suggests using the open palm of your hand to shift; do not grab the shift knob and force it around the gate. Instead, GUIDE it. For example, 2nd to 3rd shift: just push shifter forward with open palm so it disengages and slots into neutral. The shift lever will now move to the center on its own from the spring tension, and then just guide it into 3rd again with just forward pressure of your open palm.

 

Your shifting will be much smoother and much less subject to the notchy feel you complain about. Try it.

 

++ Smoother, and just as quick (though I feel the 2->3 shift needs much more "hesitation" on my part for the synchros to line-up).

[TravisS]

Also try adjusting your technique in shifting. Bob Bondurant suggests using the open palm of your hand to shift; do not grab the shift knob and force it around the gate. Instead, GUIDE it. For example, 2nd to 3rd shift: just push shifter forward with open palm so it disengages and slots into neutral. The shift lever will now move to the center on its own from the spring tension, and then just guide it into 3rd again with just forward pressure of your open palm.

 

Your shifting will be much smoother and much less subject to the notchy feel you complain about. Try it.

 

+++

That's exactly how I shift now, and how I have since I got the car (and how I have in every car )

I have never had any complaints about the shifter feel in this car, and that's coming from 2 manual Honda's. My only complaints have to do with the crappy 5th and reverse gear syncros.

[Max Rebo]

Re: the transmission mount, what is your opinion on the performance / NVH tradeoff? Worth it for a daily driver?

I had the tranny mount on my WRX and the NVH increase was minimal.

 

Tom

 

Definitely worth it. So far I have the STi trans and pitch mounts. Although my experience may differ from others... I have no discernable added NVH. Either that, or there is extra NVH, but not enough for me to really notice. If anything, I think I want to upgrade the rest of the motor mounts as well.

 

I also have the STi STS (dealer installed prior to purchase), and it feels notchy as hell. I'm really hoping the Cobb STS + poly bushings will be a good improvement. So yeah... I suppose the shifter operation is one low point of this car. Besides that, it's all pretty good... although I wouldn't mind a shorter (quicker?) steering rack like I had on my R32.

[Max Rebo]

COBB STS with COBB's Bushing, STI Aluminum Shift Knob ...

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v511/MacR32/LGT-SpecB/PICT0011-1.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v511/MacR32/LGT-SpecB/PICT0010-1.jpg

.

.

.

 

You're a brave man. Did you ever burn your hands on that shift knob in the summer? I have the Subaru Momo shift know (1/2 leather, 1/2 Al), and the bottom half gets pretty hot when my car sits in the sun for a while.

 

My sun shade helps a bit. Not sure if I want the windows tinted because I worry about being hassled by the police for what would amount to an illegal modification in PA. (70% transmittance is the max.)

[azca]

you are going to kill your front differential with that MT-90 oil

 

 

As I understand it, MT-90 is GL-4 rated and is formulated to smooth the shifting of manual trans. whereas the 75W90NS is GL-5 rated and is a more General Purpose gear oil for non-posi diffs and can be used in manual trans/transaxles.

 

MT-90

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlubricants.asp?productID=46&subCategoryID=17&categoryID=7

 

http://www.stealth316.com/2-mtl-tech.htm

 

75W90NS

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlubricants.asp?productID=47&subCategoryID=17&categoryID=7

[WmCraven]

you are going to kill your front differential with that MT-90 oil

 

A rather blunt statement.

And, what information is this opinion based on?

 

As I understand the research that I have done, the front diff is non-posi and so both 75W90 and the MT-90 Red Line products are suitable whereas 75W90NS is not. The rear diff on many Subarus is posi and so the 75W90NS is the formula to use there.

Also, Subaru uses soft bronze synchros in their M/T for which the MT-90 oil is specifically developed for.

[azca]

other way around

 

75W90NS is needed for front differential/manual tranny

 

proof: all threads on this forum, redline website stating it and Cobb website stating it

 

A rather blunt statement.

And, what information is this opinion based on?

 

As I understand the research that I have done, the front diff is non-posi and so both 75W90 and the MT-90 Red Line products are suitable whereas 75W90NS is not. The rear diff on many Subarus is posi and so the 75W90NS is the formula to use there.

Also, Subaru uses soft bronze synchros in their M/T for which the MT-90 oil is specifically developed for.

[itzed]

Also try adjusting your technique in shifting. Bob Bondurant suggests using the open palm of your hand to shift; do not grab the shift knob and force it around the gate. Instead, GUIDE it. For example, 2nd to 3rd shift: just push shifter forward with open palm so it disengages and slots into neutral. The shift lever will now move to the center on its own from the spring tension, and then just guide it into 3rd again with just forward pressure of your open palm.

 

Your shifting will be much smoother and much less subject to the notchy feel you complain about. Try it.

 

I've already tried varying my shifting technique, and although certain things do help, it's still not up to par verses my most recent German manual transmissions. I've found that it helps to engage the clutch a little earlier before getting off the accelerator completely, and also as you mention, if definitely helps to "guide" the shifter which results in a temporary pause in neutral. But there are still occasions when I get a very notchy 2-3 that's not congruent with the quality of the rest of the car. It seems to be better in the first 5 minutes of driving the car for the day, and worse in stop and go traffic, which makes me wonder if it's at least partially fluid/heat related. I'd like to change the fluid and see, but since the car only has 4K on it now, I think I'll wait a bit. But I'm looking forward to trying that and seeing if it helps. Thanks for all the advice so far.

 

Ed

[WmCraven]

other way around 75W90NS is needed for front differential/manual tranny

 

proof: all threads on this forum, redline website stating it and Cobb website stating it

 

Well, you have misstated Cobb's web site as per the link below.

http://www.cobbtuning.com/tech/gearoil/index.html

 

And, Red Line supports the use of MT-90 in applications that recommend a GL-5 rated gear oil and yet want additional synchro compatability as per the .pdf link below.

http://www.redlineoil.com/pdf/6.pdf

 

Opinions on this forum are suitable for informational purposes only and do not constitute 'proof'.

Where is your 'proof'??

[azca]

- redline powerpack for WRX

http://www.redlineoil.com/buyonline.asp?id=2

 

5 quarts of 75W90 NS gear oil for the transaxle, 1 quart of 75W90 gear oil for the rear differential

 

- redline powerpack for WRX STi

 

5 quarts of 75W90 NS gear oil for the transaxle, 1 quart of 75W90 gear oil for the rear differential

 

- cobb site

Redline 75W90NS Gear Oil is a Synthetic GL-5 oil which meets Subaru’s recommendations. Allows the transmission synchronizers come to equal speeds more quickly, allowing faster shifting and much easier low-temperature shifting. Transmission holds 3.8 quarts while the rear end holds 0.8 quarts. We recommend ordering 5 quarts for full vehicle.

 

for forum threads use search

legacy manual lists 75W90 for both

 

your car, do whatever you want; if your differential goes bad a lot sooner than it's supposed to, $$$ out of your pocket

 

 

 

 

Well, you have misstated Cobb's web site as per the link below.

http://www.cobbtuning.com/tech/gearoil/index.html

 

And, Red Line supports the use of MT-90 in applications that recommend a GL-5 rated gear oil and yet want additional synchro compatability as per the .pdf link below.

http://www.redlineoil.com/pdf/6.pdf

 

Opinions on this forum are suitable for informational purposes only and do not constitute 'proof'.

Where is your 'proof'??

[MacLGT-B]

You're a brave man. Did you ever burn your hands on that shift knob in the summer? I have the Subaru Momo shift know (1/2 leather, 1/2 Al), and the bottom half gets pretty hot when my car sits in the sun for a while.

 

My sun shade helps a bit. Not sure if I want the windows tinted because I worry about being hassled by the police for what would amount to an illegal modification in PA. (70% transmittance is the max.)

 

I haven't really notice the sifter knob getting hot, but...

I didn't drive the car much during the summer and it's alway kept garaged, I use my wifes FXT when ever I got some runing around to do.

When I did take it out I think my dark tinted windows along with cracking the sun roof did help keep the car cool (less hot).