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New UTEC FW Released


KGreb

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FYI for those who do not follow the EM forum on NASIOC. The long awaited new UTEC firmware update for the STI (and LGT and FXT) is out. You can download it here: Turbo XS - Software updates.

 

The firmware adds speed density (MAP only operation) for the high power cars. Also adds injector dead time control, improved boost control using a PID algorithm, rev limit control, more control over open loop/closed loop transitions, and lots of other nice improvements.

 

This firmware seems to have completely removed the open loop/closed loop hesitation on my car. I did no retuning, just uploaded the new firmware and parameter file, tweaked the param file for my injectors, then uploaded my old maps. Going to try setting up the new PID boost control next. I highly recommend the upgrade for anyone running a UTEC.

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I didn't need to retune fuel, boost, or ignition and it works great. Much smoother than before. The only changes I made were to the new parameter file as it was set for stock injectors and I am using modified stockers.
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No speed density plans here, but it nice to know its there if I want it :)

I think all the <$700 used STI UTECs that were flooding the NASIOC classifieds are all gone within the last 24 hrs :lol:

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Unless you're planning on at least 39 lbs/min air intake, there's no sense in using UTEC's speed-density, expecially given that it tries to estimate density from compressor inlet temperature instead of cylinder inlet temperature.
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Agreed, you want a different IAT sensor location for true speed density. Using the MAF IAT is definitely a compromise. However, I did so on a different standalone system (Link for Miata) for several years until upgrading to a properly placed sensor and it still ran quite well.
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20G, TMIC, and the usual fuel/exhaust support pieces. Kept the stock cans so it is somewhat stealthly. Running ECUTek from PDX for over a year. Added the UTEC on top about 4 months ago. Have an unresolved issue holding boost with the 20G, so its not reaching full potential, but still a lot of fun.
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Haha, stock cans is probably what's holding the boost back...

 

Go for a run with the catback uninstalled.... It'll probably solve your boost issues...

 

 

20G, TMIC, and the usual fuel/exhaust support pieces. Kept the stock cans so it is somewhat stealthly. Running ECUTek from PDX for over a year. Added the UTEC on top about 4 months ago. Have an unresolved issue holding boost with the 20G, so its not reaching full potential, but still a lot of fun.
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btw, how do i save my old tune? and reload'em?

 

EDIT

do i load all 3 files?? (STI_A_SERIES_2.3.mot, STI_2.3.mot, STIDBW_4.mot)

Perrin BIG maf intake

Perrin Turbo Inlet

HKS SSQV BOV

Megan Racing header with UP (ceramic coated)

HKS DP (WRX)

DMH E-cutout

Custom 3" catback

UTEC

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btw, how do i save my old tune? and reload'em?

 

EDIT

do i load all 3 files?? (STI_A_SERIES_2.3.mot, STI_2.3.mot, STIDBW_4.mot)

 

Go to the edit map screen and transfer your maps to the PC. Just follow the directions on screen, very simple.

 

There are two versions of the processor out there so you may need to try both 2.3 and 2.3 A. Try the 2.3 first, then try to upload a map. If it doesn't save properly, (no details with the map slot) you need to load 2.3A instead. This is all in the instructions provided with the files. Do not install the DBW firmware.

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Haha, stock cans is probably what's holding the boost back...

 

Go for a run with the catback uninstalled.... It'll probably solve your boost issues...

Sorry, try again. I did a run with them removed and it made zero difference. Going from stock center to Perrin center also made zero difference to boost levels. Also adding a GFB BOV made zero difference to boost levels. Working with Deadbolt to rule out issues with the WG actuator or flapper, but I travel a lot for work so this is going slowly.

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Kgreb - have you tried using boost control outside of what the utec does? MBC or similar? What is the actuator spring rated at?

WG should have a 15 psi spring. Direct mechanical control gives ~10-11 psi. I can pull the WG sense line and I get the same boost curve as with the UTEC, so this isn't a UTEC or stock boost solenoid limitation. I can hit ~18.5 psi midrange but I fall to ~15.5 psi by redline. The turbo should be capable of more. I seem to get all the fun problems :)

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Do not install the DBW firmware.

 

whats DBW firmware

and why do you recomment not installint the dbw?

Perrin BIG maf intake

Perrin Turbo Inlet

HKS SSQV BOV

Megan Racing header with UP (ceramic coated)

HKS DP (WRX)

DMH E-cutout

Custom 3" catback

UTEC

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whats DBW firmware

and why do you recomment not installint the dbw?

 

On some of the STI UTECs there is a second processor which can control the drive by wire (DBW, actually only throttle by wire) function of the ECU. TXS included a DBW firmware file in the zip archive, but left no instructions for it. Nathan @TXS recommended not to touch this file when I asked about it.

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Question; Why would you want to go to a speed density system over MAF system. Speed density is a slower input than a MAF and relies on the TPS for quick changes in throttle/load signal, sort of an electronic acclerator pump, if you will.

I ask this because all the "Mustang" heads switch the older fox body cars over to MAF when they do mod's. (the early EFI 5.0's were speed density)

 

I personally prefer a speed density system of a MAF due to ease of diagnostics and plain ol' reliability issues with MAF sensors.

 

Just curious.....and interested even though I'm running an AP.

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Speed density was included primarily for the folks who were running at the maximum limit of the MAF sensor. It seems to be more popular to go to a MAP system than to do the work to integrate a larger MAF properly.
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for some reason, i can't load'em

 

I get this

 

ERROR: Found no units on any port

 

Make sure that you have your toggle switch or dip switches set to 'Flash'. And no Hyperterminal or anything else running at the same time.

 

I had some issues with upgrading the firmware as well, it appears that the USB-to-Serial adapter is not very stable. And once the upgrade failed I couldn't start the car anymore, and couldn't get the flash loader to talk to the UTEC again.

 

So I had to take the UTEC off of the car to do it, and I had to play around with different port speed (from within the Flash Loader)...

 

It finally worked hours later....

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