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Exhaust informational thread


jsalicru

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This is something that comes up all the time. I get PMs from people asking for information in regards to part numbers and other aspects of exhaust part installation. So, here is a thread with all sorts of information in regards to exhaust parts.

 

This is for all the DIY people out there... you will do a much higher quality job if you follow the specs below.

 

Downpipe-to-catback torque spec...........13.0 ft-lbs

Axle-back torque spec ..........................35.4 ft-lbs

Exhaust bracket torque spec ..................26.0 ft-lbs

Transmission bracket torque spec ............26.0 ft-lbs

Downpipe-to-midpipe torque spec ............26.0 ft-lbs

Downpipe-to-turbo torque spec .............. 26.0 ft-lbs

Uppipe-to-turbo torque spec ...................26.0 ft-lbs

Turbo bracket @ up-pipe torque spec .......26.0 ft-lbs

Turbo bracket-to-block torque spec .........24.6 ft-lbs (highly unlikely you will need this one.)

Head-to-manifold torque spec .................29.8 ft-lbs

Manifold-to-crossover pipe torque spec .....26.0 ft-lbs

Manifold-to-uppipe torque spec ...............26.0 ft-lbs

Manifold heatshield torque spec ...............9.6 ft-lbs

Front 02 sensor torque spec ...................22.1 ft-lbs

Rear 02 sensor torque spec ....................15.2 ft-lbs

Intercooler-to-turbo flange torque spec ....11.6 ft-lbs

Intercooler brackets torque spec .............11.6 ft-lbs

By-pass valve-to-intercooler torque spec .. 4.8 ft-lbs

 

In addition, here are the part numbers for all the exhaust gaskets too.

 

Head to Exhaust Manifold Gaskets - 2 are required to replace in case you install a header.

14038AA000

 

Driver's Exhaust Manifold to Crossover Pipe gasket

44022AA160

 

Crossover Pipe to Pass Exhaust Manifold Gasket

44011FA020

 

Exhaust Manifold to Uppipe Gasket

44022AA170

 

Uppipe to turbo Gasket

44022AA150

 

Turbo to Downpipe Gasket

44022AA180

 

Downpipe to Midpipe

44011FE000

 

Flex Joint Gasket (the donut)

44022AA122

 

If you guys want, I might also include a how-to on UP/DP installation, but frankly, those are a dime a dozen on WRX sites..

 

More information

 

Installing Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor

 

Tools Needed:

  • 14mm wrench (possibly 2)
  • 14mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 1/8" NPT tap
  • Various drill bits (11/32, small drill bit for pilot hole, big drill bit for possible hole on heatshield)
  • Dremel (optional - for heatshield)
  • Panel popper or flathead screw driver
  • PB Blaster or equivalent penetrating lubricant

 

  1. The routing of the harness is entirely up to the end user.
  2. A good place to install the sensor is in the “button” of the driver’s side exhaust manifold.
  3. During more recent testing, it has been shown that the driver’s side of the engine runs higher EGTs than the passenger’s side.
  4. Carefully lift the front of the car and secure using jack-stands.
  5. 5. Remove belly pan. There are 3 12-mm bolts in the front and 1 in the rear. There are also 2 plastic tabs on each side of the pan, for a total of 4. There are tab removers available, but a flat head screwdriver will work if one is not available.
  6. Remove driver’s side exhaust manifold heat shield. This is secured by 3 12-mm bolts.
  7. Remove the 2 14-mm bolts in that hold the manifold to the crossover pipe. Hold on to that gasket. You will need at least one open-end wrench for this, but two are useful. Ratchet type open-end wrenches are the best.
  8. Remove the 3 14-mm nuts that hold the manifold in place.
  9. Locate the little button in between the No. 2 and No.4 exhaust pipe.
  10. Drill a pilot hole in the middle of the “button”.
  11. Drill a hole using a 11/32” drill bit. Make sure to use some type of lubricant to cool and help out the bit. Also, regulate the speed so that you can cut into the metal more efficiently. Faster really is not better here.
  12. Start to tap your thread using the 1/8” NPT tap. Get some help for this as it requires some incredible amount of force. It is typically not recommended to back out of the thread very often when using a NPT tap. And when you think you have gone far enough and hard enough, back it out, clean the threads, and go again a little harder until it REALLY is impossible.
  13. Clean the threads and the interior of the manifold to remove metal shavings.
  14. Install the fitting. Use discretion when torquing it down.
  15. If you plan on re-using the heat shield, do not install the sensor just yet.
  16. Mark the heat shield in the appropriate location and use either a HUGE bit (bigger than 3/8”) or use a dremel to obtain the desired size.
  17. Install the manifold back to the engine and crossover pipe. Do not forget the gasket!
  18. Install heat shield.
  19. Install sensor. Do not over-tighten.
  20. Plug sensor harness.
  21. When starting the car, you might experience some smoke due to the lubricant used during the drilling process. Other than that, check for leaks.

"some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose."
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Hey Jose,

 

Could you add TMIC, and turbo (to bracket to block, etc) torque specs as well?

 

Thanks!

 

 

Done, added all those specs too... even the tiny BOV one :lol:

"some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose."
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Nice Jose. So you're try to say I don't just torque everything will the bolts snap off... huh... who knew?!?!? :lol:

 

you never know, trust me, you just never know ;)

"some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose."
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Added a section in regards to installing a EGT sensor. Took it out of my Defi How-to that I did for the STi guys a while back
"some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose."
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About to do headers install, just called the dealer who has gaskets in stock. Here is the price I was quoted over the phone (don't know if this varies):

Header - Block = 13.22 each (x2)

Uppipe - turbo = 11.83 (x1)

 

Funny thing was... I forgot about this thread and had him searching on the computer for a few minutes. Then I said... oh wait... crap I have the part numbers! Point of story... get part numbers before you call the dealer... because it might take them 10 minutes to find it in the system.

 

I am going to sell my Crucial gaskets. They are good gaskets, but I am just too lazy to heat cycle them a few times!

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What were the part numbers for the uppipe studs and the exhaust manifold studs?

 

Murrays Auto stores sell the studs for like $1.50. They are high grade and even come with a nut. They exxactly replicate the stock studs. (M10 x 1.25). If you don't have Murrays, just go to an auto store that has everything. I don't think Autozone has them... maybe Napa.

 

Not sure about the manifold studs, mine were fine and did not need replaced. I cannot imagine those being bad.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Here is the price I was quoted over the phone (don't know if this varies):

Header - Block = $13.22 each (x2)

Uppipe - turbo = $11.83 (x1)

 

Pricing for the header to uppipe is about the same as uppipe to turbo... just an FYI to add to the list.

 

Also...

http://www.subiwiki.com/wiki/images/d/de/Lgtexhaust.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Where do you all buy your gaskets?

I went to one website and typed in 44022AA180 for the turbo to DP gasket and I got like 8 different gaskets???

My other car is a 1993 Chevy S-10 Tahoe! (Currently being driven to failure by my nephew)
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