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Extreme oil consumption


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About what I would have expected....Except for the 1qt per 1k km? It was always 1qt. per 1K miles! So that would have been closer to 1.6k km...

 

If you have burned 2qts in 2k km, it is without a doubt bad oil rings. If they are unwilling to change out the shortblock, then this sounds like the ideal candidate for the AutoRx I described to you previously.

 

Well, I wish you all the best. Hopefully they step up to the plate, and do you right this time.

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Anyways, this is prob the last time Ill buy an early-build demo, and maybe subaru. I have had all of my past problems brushed off by the dealer, maybe this time I will get proper service....

 

Oh man, I don't blame you.

 

After reading about your vehicle's past and present issues, I'd feel the same towards Subaru.

 

Best of luck to you.

 

If it makes you feel any better, my LGT's steering wheel shift buttons haven't worked since I purchased the vehicle. Yes, I know, I should've tested them when I drove it at the dealer's.

 

-Jim

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About what I would have expected....Except for the 1qt per 1k km? It was always 1qt. per 1K miles! So that would have been closer to 1.6k km...

 

If you have burned 2qts in 2k km, it is without a doubt bad oil rings. If they are unwilling to change out the shortblock, then this sounds like the ideal candidate for the AutoRx I described to you previously.

 

Well, I wish you all the best. Hopefully they step up to the plate, and do you right this time.

 

He may have said 1k miles.

 

Hey edmundu, what would they do to tell if there was damage to the rings? Would the AutoRx solution be a possible "quick-fix" in the case of minor damage? I want to make sure that if at the end of this if I still own this car, the engine - of all things - is in as good a shape as possible. Basically at what point would I need a new shortblock as you mention vs the AutoRx?

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Oh man, I don't blame you.

 

After reading about your vehicle's past and present issues, I'd feel the same towards Subaru.

 

Best of luck to you.

 

If it makes you feel any better, my LGT's steering wheel shift buttons haven't worked since I purchased the vehicle. Yes, I know, I should've tested them when I drove it at the dealer's.

 

-Jim

Thanks Jim.

 

Your wrong about the steering wheel buttons though :) the dealer should have checked those for you in the pre delivery inspection which they charge you through the nose for (in Canada at least).

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Anyways, this is prob the last time Ill buy an early-build demo...

 

Best of luck, brother. :) I'll keep my fingers crossed for ya.

 

Winky is an early-build demo as well. I lucked out, knock on wood.

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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i won't ever use Mobil 1 in my cars. I used in my '02 Forester and it consumes too much especially since it's not driven that hard. Switched back to regular dino.

 

Teh tr00f.

I keed I keeed
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He may have said 1k miles.

 

Hey edmundu, what would they do to tell if there was damage to the rings? Would the AutoRx solution be a possible "quick-fix" in the case of minor damage? I want to make sure that if at the end of this if I still own this car, the engine - of all things - is in as good a shape as possible. Basically at what point would I need a new shortblock as you mention vs the AutoRx?

 

If doing an AutoRx course doesn't improve the consumption, then it looks like the rings have somehow been damaged, or the oil was glazed into the cylinder crosshatching, necessitating a teardown or shortblock replacement.

 

But being that you have had this for sometime, it really could go either way. Usually, after they confirm your consumption via the test you have just started, the dealer will be warranted to disassemble the engine or just automatically replace the shortblock, unless SOA pays to have it taken apart to be rebored/honed and install new rings/pistons, etc...

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Usually, after they confirm your consumption via the test you have just started, the dealer will be warranted to disassemble the engine or just automatically replace the shortblock, unless SOA pays to have it taken apart to be rebored/honed and install new rings/pistons, etc...

 

That makes me feel better, as long as they give it due diligence and fix any problems properly Ill be happy. I havent gotten the car back yet so well see what they say after having some more time to look it over.

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My 97 Outback 2.5 ingested about 1 to 1.5 quarts every 3000k miles. Very often I would check the oil and be in total disbelief that the dipstick would look totally DRY! Yet the dealer would check it, and always claim it was only 1 quart low. I got used to it after a while...(I kept the car for 150k relativley trouble free miles)

 

My LGT doesn't consume ANY oil it seems (14,000 miles on the car so far) but I still check the oil every time I fill up with gas. Old habits die hard I guess.

 

BTW I followed the recomended break in procedure for the most part...with both cars

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Service called. 3.5 quarts in just over 2000 kms :icon_surp

 

To add to the whole fiasco the new service manager who I met yesterday, is no longer with the company today, I guess he quit... not only that but the records they have on my file are incomplete, they dont have my mileage listed for a number of services and oil changes, also they seemed to have forgotten that I swiched to Mobil1 at 18k kms, and I just found out that during the oil change after that, even though I requested and prob paid for mobil 1 they filled it up with whatever regular oil they use :confused: Which is also what they filled it with this time. Im hoping that there is no negative effects from switching back and forth between syn and natural oils?

 

This would tell me that theres been some big problems at this particular service dept. Now 4+ service managers (never mind service staff) in just over a year? c'mon.

 

The service guy who has been trying to help me out is now the acting service manager, so im trying not to yell at the guy.

 

They said that they listened to the engine and determined that there was no damage b/c you would supposedly hear it. Is this true?

 

Subaru Canada is now involved and the tech line told them to replace the "PVC valve" (edit:PCV), b/c it may be the problem. I have the car back now, they changed the oil (not Mobil b/c they didnt know thats what ive been using for the past 15000kms!!). They are having me check my oil every 250kms and bring the car in if I notice consumption. After 1000 kms they want me to bring it back and have a tech record the oil level, well do that up to 3000kms and see whats going on then.

 

To top it all off supposedly my brake rotors need to be replaced at a cost of $150 each, I asked him how long rotors should last, I believe they should go a nice bit beyond 30k kms (Ive only been drving the car for 23k kms and when I first got the car I felt brake shake and had to pay 150-200 to have them resurfaced) anyone know how long they should last roughly?

 

I have told this service guy the list of problems I have had with the car and the fact that the dealer basically brushed off every single problem I brought to them over the past year including a very obvious and very severe case of oil consumption (at least 3-4 complaints before this incident). I said that as far as I was concerned the car was approaching lemon status and that I wanted him to take up the full list of past and present issues with the district manager.

 

Does anyone here know about lemon law in Canada?

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Switching oils shouldn't cause any problems unless you already had a problem. I've used Maxlife Synthetic in a car that had 60k miles already and switched back.

 

I believe it's PCV valve not PVC even though it could be made out of PVC plastic. If they said PVC valve run for the border!!!

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Sorry to hear about all your oil issues. That place truly sounds like the definition of "stealership" ...reminds me of my last VW dealer.

 

As far as you rotors I think you should B*itch about that...I just had mine resurfaced due to brake shudder under warranty- I simply said "Hey my rotors are warped. They need to be resurfaced. When I step on the brakes the whole car shudders." They handled it right away...no questions asked. BTW I'm at 14k miles.

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I believe it's PCV valve not PVC even though it could be made out of PVC plastic. If they said PVC valve run for the border!!!

Youre right, the invoice says "PCV" phew

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Those rotor prices should net you some nifty aftermarket rotors that are cross-drilled and slotted, with nice hats! I'd bitch there, too! :mad:

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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Deimos, sorry to hear 'bout the probs! :( I know that really suck, especially since they are "normally" a great car! Keep on the dealers butt about all of these issues, and hopefully you can get it fixed properly. I bought a 2006 "demo" managers car also, with about 5700 miles on her. I haven't had any issues to date, but she only has about 9200 on her now. I do need to check my oil level, as I've not checked mine lately. I'm running Royal Purple synthetic in mine.

 

Good Luck, and don't give up on the Leggy, they are great cars! :)

"You poke it, You own it" - Man law supporter
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^^^^

 

deimos,

 

+1

 

I really hate reading about all your issues with your vehicle. Here's hoping that Subaru of Canada makes good on your hard-earned money.

 

With a vehicle as problematic as yours, I'd be very reluctant to place any trust in it. Maybe slightly off topic, but have you thought of having Subaru of Canada replace your vehicle altogether? Or, have them take it back, refund you and start your life elsewhere?

 

-Jim

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Also... for some reason, our cars are EXTREMELY hard to get a good oil level reading on the dipstick.

 

I think callign it extremely difficult is being generous. That thing is effectively useless.

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^^^^

 

deimos,

 

+1

 

I really hate reading about all your issues with your vehicle. Here's hoping that Subaru of Canada makes good on your hard-earned money.

 

With a vehicle as problematic as yours, I'd be very reluctant to place any trust in it. Maybe slightly off topic, but have you thought of having Subaru of Canada replace your vehicle altogether? Or, have them take it back, refund you and start your life elsewhere?

 

-Jim

 

Thats why im asking if anyone knows what the laws are regarding that up here? I think it will be difficult to get a replacement unless the car really is a lemon, but frankly with the list of problems and the fact that many have been present since I bought the car, it sounds like I could make lemonade...

 

I just sent a very long, exhaustive email to the owner of the dealership, I will also copy Subaru Canada and see what happens.

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Thats why im asking if anyone knows what the laws are regarding that up here? I think it will be difficult to get a replacement unless the car really is a lemon, but frankly with the list of problems and the fact that many have been present since I bought the car, it sounds like I could make lemonade...

 

I just sent a very long, exhaustive email to the owner of the dealership, I will also copy Subaru Canada and see what happens.

 

No "lemon law" as such in Canada, but there are options through a gov't sponsored arbitration board:

http://camvap.ca/eng/media_release.htm

 

There are also some options through the Better Business Bureau and others.

 

I will save those until I get a response or not from SC and the dealer.

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No response to the emails yet.

 

After I demanded that they cover my rotor replacement, I got a call today from the service guy saying that they will replace my rotors for me. So they should...

 

I have driven 350kms since the new oil change. I checked my oil 3 times last night and today. I was on as level a surface as I could find, and I checked the readings 3-4 times each to be sure. The readings are for the side of the dipstick with the L and F, the other (non lettered) side tended to have a slightly higher level. For the record the dealer asked me to take cold readings.

 

Warm (45 mins-1hr after driving): 2/3-1/2 showing on dipstick (it may have moved from 1/2 to 2/3 on the stick when I was trying to read it)

 

Cold (3-4 hours after driving): 1/2 full, maybe a tiny bit more

 

Cold (next morning): same

 

They are doing the rotors on tuesday so they will get a chance to look it over and check the reading themselves then.

 

I would assume that the fact I am already reading at or near the half mark means their PCV fix didnt help.

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