thatwouldbegreat Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 In warranty, running synthetic .... I stick to 7K when the interval is 7500 miles with 5W-30 GF3 oil [ dino oil ] and 3750 miles is the 'severe' schedule. Obviously, I am not driving the 'severe' schedule. But if I was running a non synthetic and not using Redline ,GC, Mobil1 .... I would run the 3750 OCI. I did a Used Oil Analysis with Redline in our 2003 Outback and hard, hard driving, after 10,000 miles; the results were perfect. No problems with the oil, or continued use. There was 1% fuel dilution related to some problems with how the engine was running, and Subaru fixed that. BTW, Mobil 1 says that with Mobil 1 synthetic to ignore the severe schedule. If I had an engine that was using oil, or showed some signs that a warranty claim might be coming up....I would use the 5W-30 GF3 dino oil at 3750 miles with an oem filter. If the engine seems fine, I run what I feel is best and take the risk that I may be taking better care of a motor that I plan to keep for a long time, but potentially may have more warranty hassles...however unlikely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kilowatt Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 The factory oil change interval on our BMW was 15,000 miles, so someone thinks synthetic oil can go for a while. They have a lot more warranty to cover too. You would expect the turbo motor to have a shorter interval. If you want to be certain about warranty protection, then you have to consider staying with the recommended schedule. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydrew Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 Why come up with your own rules while your still under warranty? I use synthetic as added security. Not so I can extend my oil change intervals. ProTUNED by RaminiSports Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thatwouldbegreat Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 Why come up with your own rules while your still under warranty? I use synthetic as added security. Not so I can extend my oil change intervals. Why? 1] Its my car. I am confident that premium synthetic oils and longer interval works for me and provides the best protection for my needs! 2] I believe that with good synthetic oil that 7K is the correct interval. 3] Since I have so many cars in the family with so many drivers, there is a risk to running conventional oil. The other drivers may forget to check the oil level. With synthetic I see close to zero oil consumption, so this is never a problem. I'd rather risk that a healthy engine has a problem and I have to fight with Subaru over warranty coverage, than ruin an engine with low oil level and lose warranty protection and have an engine I damaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USERBOSCO Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 Asked and answered, then. With my luck, I'd start with synth on a 7K change schedule, and something bazaare woul happen, and then my ass would be out hanging in the wind w/ no waranty. According to SOA, you may use synthetic oil but you must follow the maintenance schedule. They also go on to say that "most" people should follow the "severe" maintenance, that the normal schedule is for optimal conditions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thatwouldbegreat Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 Asked and answered, then. With my luck, I'd start with synth on a 7K change schedule, and something bazaare woul happen, and then my ass would be out hanging in the wind w/ no waranty. Point taken. So pick a good oil for the money like Motorcraft 5W-30 or Conoco Troparctic 5W-30, or Castrol GTX 5W-30 , or Mobil 5000 5W-30, or [ fill in the blank with your personal favorite oil ] and change every 3750 miles and use a dealership oil filter. My question is wil you do this until the warranty period is over? Or until you are confident in the motor at 12K or 20K or some other mileage? I feel these less expensive GF-3 rated oils will do a great job of protecting the engine at 3750 miles intervals... unless you drive the engine really hard. I just prefer to use the better oil and longer intervals, and it works for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R W Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 I use castrol syn in my tundra and change @ 7k -10k with no worries, but recently bought the wife a legacy, not the turbo, coming up on 10k and was going to go to syn. But I have been reading all this 3-4k oil change, does this boxer motor have a need for rapid oil changes, what's the real deal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShrinerMonkey Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 I change my synth oil about every 5k miles in my 2.5i. I only drive about that many miles per year so I don't want to run the oil more than 1 year. I got a great deal on some Pensoil Platinum and Valvoline full synth so I really don't care about wasting the oil that much as I paid less than what you would pay for quality dino. I wouldn't hesitate to run dino oil 5000-7500 miles in my N/A engine which has a reputation for being very easy on oil. If I had a turbo I would use full synth ONLY and probably not run it over 5k miles without a UOA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtmenace Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 wow, 3 yrs old & IBRao! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDriver77 Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 I converted my '04 Legacy, 79,000 miles, to Mobil 1 right after I bought it, the car has been well maintained, so I don't think the motor is heavily sludged or anything like that. I'll keep an eye on it, if it gets really dark, I'll drain it at 3000 miles. I plan on running mine 7500 miles between changes, as my driving is highway, 90 mile roundtrip commute. I'm using the Mobil 1 10w-30 high mileage formula. This winter, I'll using the 0w-30 grade, gets pretty cold out here in the Rockies. One more thing, the Mobil website states the Mobil 1 is fully compatible with all seals, actually has a seal conditioner in it and will NOT cause any leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1520896#Post1520896 Above is my latest used oil analysis, attempting to see how far a quality synthetic oil can go in one of my cars. The main advantage to synthetic is very long oil change interval possibilities; if you drain synthetic every 3000 miles, you are throwing away perfectly good oil. Even in the LGT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanB Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 I have a question for the guys who say they only change the filter every 5k and the oil every 10-15k: how the hell do you change just the filter, and not the oil? Does the oil not run out when you remove the filter? Do you catch the oil in a pan and pour it back in the engine? I've never been able to get the logistics of this method figured out, and nobody I know personally does this for me to ask, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 I thought you never had to change synthetic oil If you have to change it what are the benefits? Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilT Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 I thought you never had to change synthetic oil If you have to change it what are the benefits? It makes your car faster than a Spec B, unless your car actually is a Spec B, then it makes it faster than anything else on the road. Double Award Winning Legacy GT Wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 I thought the Spec B was already the fastest car on the road? This thread is very confusing Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShrinerMonkey Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 I have a question for the guys who say they only change the filter every 5k and the oil every 10-15k: how the hell do you change just the filter, and not the oil? Does the oil not run out when you remove the filter? Do you catch the oil in a pan and pour it back in the engine? I've never been able to get the logistics of this method figured out, and nobody I know personally does this for me to ask, lol. Not much oil will run out when you remove the filter as it sits above the oil pan. Oil filters typically can last 10k miles or more so I don't really see the sense in changing it MORE often than the oil itself. I change my filter every oil change but only because I am under there making a mess anyway so I might as well. Plus they only cost a few dollars so it is cheap insurance. I also like know I got out as much old oil as possible each change, replacing the filter allows me to do this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanB Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 I thought you never had to change synthetic oil If you have to change it what are the benefits? The benefits range from feeling better about yourself for spending more money on oil than your peers, to being able to say you are "green" as you don't support the harvest and refining of DIRTY mineral oils that harm our environment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanB Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Not much oil will run out when you remove the filter as it sits above the oil pan. Oil filters typically can last 10k miles or more so I don't really see the sense in changing it MORE often than the oil itself. I change my filter every oil change but only because I am under there making a mess anyway so I might as well. Plus they only cost a few dollars so it is cheap insurance. I also like know I got out as much old oil as possible each change, replacing the filter allows me to do this. Hmm, I haven't actually changed the oil on a Subaru yet, maybe I'll try pulling the filter off 1st just to see for myself, lol. I've always drained the pan before removing the filter, I just assumed the oil level would be at the filter height, maybe I'm thinking about it wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 I am sure those synthetic oil factories are about as green as you can get, just like the battery mines and factories You can remove the filter without draining the oil pan. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShrinerMonkey Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 The benefits range from feeling better about yourself for spending more money on oil than your peers, to being able to say you are "green" as you don't support the harvest and refining of DIRTY mineral oils that harm our environment. Many synthetic oils are Group III meaning they are made from hydrocracked mineral oil base stocks... so no, not so green. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedDawg Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 i go ~7k with redline 5w30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 If you want to feel green, buy this: http://www.renewablelube.com/pdf/Bio-Synthetic%20HD%20SHP%20SAE%205W40%20Motor%20Oil.pdf It's a motor oil made from corn/soy/similar oils. From what I understand it'll biodegrade in a relatively short period of time and is safe to pour out onto the ground if that's your thing (before it gets run in your engine at least). Anyway, good oils. The link I provided goes to a PDF of the oil I would recommend for the LGT, their 5w40. It is a vastly different type of motor oil though, so most people feel uncomfortable with the idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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