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DIY polyurethane linings for undercoating?


Deer Killer

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Before winter gets here I want to do the whole underbody in some sort of undercoat.. I was thinking plastic lining would be the best like rhino lining, of course they only have professional installation AFAIK. Anyone have any experience with the competition? Herculiner? Gator Guard? Duplicolor truck bed liner? (cheap and it's at wal-mart).
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Deer Killer, how do you plan on keeping the stuff away from the suspension arms and joints? I'm planning to use a product called T9 BoeShield. Boeing uses this stuff to protect and lubricate landing gears and it's been popular with the boating crowed for corrosion protection. It sprays on and drys to a clear, wax like coating. It doesn't hinder mechanical movement. The only thing I can think of that might be a down side IIRC is that each application is good for 3 months and then should be reapplied. So depending on how long the winter is, might need to do another pass early spring.
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Be careful not to seal in any moisture -- poor undercoating job can do more harm than good, and it has happened before. Subaru uses a good grade of galvanized steel, and there is already some undercoating on the car from the factory. I don't think you will accomplish much with additional undercoating. Even the additional noise reduction will be marginal given the already low noise levels. Craig
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[quote name='c_hunter']Subaru uses a good grade of galvanized steel, and there is already some undercoating on the car from the factory. I don't think you will accomplish much with additional undercoating. Even the additional noise reduction will be marginal given the already low noise levels. Craig[/quote] Yeah I saw that, they put undercoating on the wheel wells only. It's still nearly liquid too, It's a wonder that it even stays on.. Not sure if it's supposed to dry, been at least 20 days.. However many places concern me, especially all the metal around the jack points. Maybe I'm just a little antsy because right before I bought this car the jack points on my old car dissappeared into the car as I tried to change a flat :o That was some serious rust. Galvanized or not, being exposed to salt 7-8 months of the year it won't be long on bare paint on the underside. As far as sound proofing goes, the car is quiet because more because of elimination at the source, not the cabin. Driving over bad pavement make _a lot_ of road noise, as does driving by noisy cars.
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[quote name='rao']Unless you can do this you are wasting your time and money and will probably make things worse.... :lol:[/quote] If I could do that to the whole car in rhino liner....... who needs paint when you can just encapsulate everything in plastic. edit.... :P [img]http://www.herculiner.com/images/bishop_todd.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.herculiner.com/images/rivard_eric.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.herculiner.com/images/floyd_batmobile.jpg[/img]
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[quote name='Deer Killer'][quote name='rao']Unless you can do this you are wasting your time and money and will probably make things worse.... :lol:[/quote] If I could do that to the whole car in rhino liner....... who needs paint when you can just encapsulate everything in plastic.[/quote] LOL, that would be a pretty cool looking car! Wouldn't have to worry about any paint chips!
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I know this is not what you're looking for, but to correct my earlier statement; Looks like BoeShield should last at least one season or more without reapplication. Also, reapplying is simply a matter of spraying another coat without precleaning. [url]http://www.boeshieldcanada.com/info.pdf[/url] Since it's also a lubricant, I don't need to worry about masking off anything other than the exhaust. Just jack the car up and spray away.
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