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New Stereo Install


rtp

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^ not even. No sanding needed - the grill is so porous, it would be pointless. If the grille is metal and the cup plastic, Krylon will do fine. On some older cars, I even went so far as to cover the metal grille in matching speaker cloth - to match the interior. This can also be useful in padding the brightness of the tweeter done just a bit, even though the cloth is sold as 'acoustically transparent'.
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Don't think I ever saw an answer for this..... how much did car toys charge for that custom box?

 

I've gotten a number of requests for this... I think I paid entirely too much, ($450)especially given the aesthetic quality of the piece. And I have no basis for comparison in terms of quality of sound.

 

Boulderguy, would love to have you come down and take a listen and maybe we can tweek it a bit.

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Big 2nd on Manville's request to replace the separates with coaxials. I recently installed a set of 6.5" Morel coaxials in my front doors and the imaging is pretty amazing.

 

My Z has 6.5" MB Quart Q components with the tweeters in custom kick panels. That location also sounds really good in that car, but passenger legs block the right tweeter and has a big impact on the imaging.

 

I find the coaxials in the Legacy stock door locations is impacted less when a passenger rides along.

ignore him, he'll go away.
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^ just paint the tweeter grills and it will be stealth.

 

the phase plugs on my Quarts twist out and tweeter mounts twist in. Seems like a good option, thus my decision in buying them.

x2. I just need to get around to mounting them! I've had them for 2 weeks now :(

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I asked them to mount them as coaxials. But, because of the size of the woofer and phase plug, plus the size of the tweeter, they mounted back in the stock location.

 

The car is headed back to the shop tomorrow. I will get it fixed or I will start the process of returning stuff... starting with the Focals.

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its kinda interesting that some popel notice impact on imaging with passenger legs, i for one, never had that issue with any of the kicks in my cars, infact, when i used to compete a little, i sat WITH the judge a lot on the passenger side and it never seemed to change anyhting...:)

 

b

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its kinda interesting that some popel notice impact on imaging with passenger legs, i for one, never had that issue with any of the kicks in my cars, infact, when i used to compete a little, i sat WITH the judge a lot on the passenger side and it never seemed to change anyhting...:)

 

b

I'm 6'8", and would purposely not sit with the judge. My wife is 5' 10". That's a lot of leg in my car...

ignore him, he'll go away.
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:)

 

Got my car back from CarToys for round two. I insisted they move the tweeters... and they found a way. They hand drilled out the faux perforation holes in the stock speaker grill and mounted them (albeit very tightly) next to the Mid, just like in Manville's picture posted above.

 

I also asked them to swap out one of the amps to a JL with a bass control knob. The only one they had in stock was the e1200. And with that they installed the an upgraded sub, the JL 10w3-d2.

 

All in all, this is MUCH better! The staging is better, the imaging is better, the highs are not as harsh (but I still have everything set low on the Focals -6dB and mid-flat). The sub is much warmer... which could be due to the JL amp, too.

 

My iPod playlist is 100% better on this system... I actually enjoy listening to the tracks now.

 

All this AND a $21 refund!

 

I still think there might be a phase issue... which should be wired out of phase, the tweeter or the mid (Manville?)? He said the tweeters were, but I thought it was supposed to be the mid.

 

Also, I was thinking of going up to the 1400D, but that would cost another $150+. Would there be a noticeable difference (clarity, depth, etc) in having more clean power delivered to the W3 at the same given volume?

 

Finally, what is everyone's take on tipping the installers on this type of install?

 

I'll post updated pics tonight when I get home.

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Woohoo!

 

I thnk it was mid out of phase, not the tweeter, but play with it & see what sounds right to you. It was just the right front out of phase on Manville's I think, definitely not both.

 

Tipping - if they went over & above, why not? But it sounds like they just didn't do it right the first time. Why not tip them the $21 refund if you think they earned it?

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FWIW, i had installed my tweeters in the stock tweeter location and indeed it was harsh, but the treble on my speakers was low to begin with so it wasnt bad...

 

i also just UNinstalled everything in my car. i went back to stock. i got a cleansweep and fiberglass box and amps/sub up for grabs. It aws good while it lasted but im looking to go in another direction.

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My left door mid is in reverse polarity.

 

Glad it's sounding better now and very glad that they didn't give you a hard time and did the right thing for you.

 

If you're running a 10W3-D4 with coils in parallel (2 ohms) you're getting 200 Watts to the sub which is enough for good sound. The e1400D would give you 400 watts or 3dB more clean output without overstressing the sub. It's up to you, really. I run the 1400 in my car on a 10W6v2 and it's plenty of power.

 

As for tipping the installers... keep in mind that the installer probably didn't get paid for the re-do, so it would certainly be appreciated by him if you gave him a few bucks ($40-$50 or so). This way, you can be sure that he will take care of any future tweaks and issues promptly and with a smile.

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Thanks, Manville.

 

I've actually got a 10w3-d2... they said it's wired so I'm running 275w @ 2ohms... Why would an Optima Yellow Top go to 14.5v?

 

I went back to pick up my old battery and tried to tip... they turned it down. :iam:

 

Here are a few new pics...

 

DSC00867.thumb.JPG.9907f0ee4ac1e7de0464b9e96e6ae8f5.JPG

 

DSC00869.thumb.JPG.5dfe17fa0ee5d603a4a77763bc6bbee0.JPG

 

DSC00872.thumb.JPG.3d9d0fe2cbe814e6a67b58a204ccf491.JPG

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Are you sure it's a D2? The D2 is a dual 2 ohm voice coil so it can only be wired as a 1 ohm or 4 ohm woofer. The D4 (dual 4 ohm) can be wired as a 2 ohm woofer.

 

If it is, they probably wired the coils in series (4 ohms) which means you're only getting 120W at 12.5 V or 175W at 14.4V. The e1200 is optimized for 2 ohms (200W at 12.5V, 270@ at 14.4 V).

 

If it's loud enough don't worry about it.

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What if it was wired in parallel?

 

In terms of loudness... it's ok. Fine for normal listening, but if I gain it up just a bit it really starts to sound muddy. The bass control knob has very limited impact, up or down.

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