Leonardo Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 Bahh, I kept the wagon. It is nice and paid off! Getting her ready for the Subie Challenge here in Fl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 5. Once the caliper and caliper bracket is off, the rotor will just come right off. http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/4599/img0024sizedql7.jpg 6. Pick up the correct front rotor and make sure that the rotor you picked up is the correct one. This is the back side of the new brake rotor, fit it over the hub and just slide it into place. http://img466.imageshack.us/img466/4421/img0002002sizedyf7.jpg I haven't assisted with a brake job in YEARS.....but I guess I'm a little clueles.... from the description it looks like swapping the rotors out are pretty darn easy. Nothing too complicated.... but I wasn't clear exactly how the Rotors are held on??? There is no description about unbolting the actual Rotor. How are they being held in place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 11. For the bottom bolt, because the the limited amount of space, use the 17mm offset wrench to loosen the bolt, use a light tap of the mallet if you need to. http://img65.imageshack.us/img65/3152/img0031sizedxz4.jpg 12. Remove the brake pads off the caliper bracket and remove the caliper bracket. The only thing left to do now is to remove the rotor itself. Release the e-brake with caution if you do not have all 4 wheels off the ground. There are two ways to remove it, or even a combination of the two methods. 12a. You may use an M8 bolt and screw in the two holes in the rear rotor hub which will push the rotor away from the hub drum assembly. You can get a bolt from the engine compartment that holds the top radiator brackets in place. If you plan to use this method, slowly AND evenly screw in the bolts evenly as it is easy to snap the bolts. The rotor will come loose and you can then use your hands to remove the rotor. http://img466.imageshack.us/img466/1799/img0035sizedys5.jpg 12b. If the rotor will not budge from some tapping using the rubber mallet or that step 12a didn't work for you, you may loosen the e-brake adjuster to make the brake shoes be in less contact with the drum. Behind the dust shield of the brake rotor and hub assembly, you will see a little rubber grommet that you can remove and expose the adjuster. FOR THE DRIVER SIDE, turning the adjuster UP will loosen the adjuster. REMEMBER to re-adjust the adjuster after you are done with the installation if you plan to go this route. Use a flathead screwdriver to spin the sprocket adjuster to the correct direction. http://img466.imageshack.us/img466/8848/img0038sizedjh0.jpg "12. Remove the brake pads off the caliper bracket and remove the caliper bracket. The only thing left to do now is to remove the rotor itself. Release the e-brake with caution if you do not have all 4 wheels off the ground. There are two ways to remove it, or even a combination of the two methods." I wanted just a little more clarification on the RELEASE the E-BRAKE...... You mention there are two ways to remove it, or even a combination of two methods. Are you talking about the Rotor or the E-Brake. When you say release the e-brake are you just talkign about putting the lever down in the car near the shifter? Sorry if I am overanalyzing this stuff. I've always been scared to touch the brakes and I think I'm going to do my next brake job myself so I want to make sure I am 100% clear on everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted January 23, 2008 Author Share Posted January 23, 2008 I haven't assisted with a brake job in YEARS.....but I guess I'm a little clueles.... from the description it looks like swapping the rotors out are pretty darn easy. Nothing too complicated.... but I wasn't clear exactly how the Rotors are held on??? There is no description about unbolting the actual Rotor. How are they being held in place? it's held in place using the lug nuts... and the caliper bracket is another part that keeps the rotor from falling out and flying out as well if the lug nuts fail. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted January 23, 2008 Author Share Posted January 23, 2008 "12. Remove the brake pads off the caliper bracket and remove the caliper bracket. The only thing left to do now is to remove the rotor itself. Release the e-brake with caution if you do not have all 4 wheels off the ground. There are two ways to remove it, or even a combination of the two methods." I wanted just a little more clarification on the RELEASE the E-BRAKE...... You mention there are two ways to remove it, or even a combination of two methods. Are you talking about the Rotor or the E-Brake. When you say release the e-brake are you just talkign about putting the lever down in the car near the shifter? Sorry if I am overanalyzing this stuff. I've always been scared to touch the brakes and I think I'm going to do my next brake job myself so I want to make sure I am 100% clear on everything. you want to release the e-brake (the lever) after you get the car off the ground (as you don't want the car to roll off by accident). You will have a hard time taking the rear rotors off the hub if the e-brake is still pushing the on the drum of the rear rotor hat. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 awesome! all clear now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay H Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 Hi, just registered since I am in the process of replacing my brake rotors on a '05 Subaru Outback XT. It seems our brake rotor replacement procedure is very similar, same 14mm bolts that remove the pads from the caliper bracket and the same 14mm bolts that remove the caliper bracket from the hub. Although I was able to remove the lower one without an offset wrench. My problem is that using the M8 bolt from the radiator bracket wasn't long enough to completely remove the rotor from the hub and I could not for the life of me figure out what sprocket you can rotate upwards to release the e-brake shoe. So I went to Lowes and bought a longer M8 bolt because that was easy to back the rotor off, I figure a longer one I might not need to bother with the e-brake shoe at all. My worry is since I've never removed the rotors before, will this affect me putting on the new rotor?? If the e-brake shoe is rubbing if the old rotor is off, would the shoe prevent the new one from sliding on? I'm just worried if I get in a position where I can't get the new rotor on.. I'm stuck... Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted February 27, 2008 Author Share Posted February 27, 2008 Hi, just registered since I am in the process of replacing my brake rotors on a '05 Subaru Outback XT. It seems our brake rotor replacement procedure is very similar, same 14mm bolts that remove the pads from the caliper bracket and the same 14mm bolts that remove the caliper bracket from the hub. Although I was able to remove the lower one without an offset wrench. My problem is that using the M8 bolt from the radiator bracket wasn't long enough to completely remove the rotor from the hub and I could not for the life of me figure out what sprocket you can rotate upwards to release the e-brake shoe. So I went to Lowes and bought a longer M8 bolt because that was easy to back the rotor off, I figure a longer one I might not need to bother with the e-brake shoe at all. My worry is since I've never removed the rotors before, will this affect me putting on the new rotor?? If the e-brake shoe is rubbing if the old rotor is off, would the shoe prevent the new one from sliding on? I'm just worried if I get in a position where I can't get the new rotor on.. I'm stuck... Jay Once you remove the rear rotor, you'll see the drum brake adjuster to where you can dial it back in or out to make the brake rotor work. If you can get it off with a M8 bolt off, then you can use the lug nuts to tighten the rotor back on. Just do everything evenly turn the lug nuts and m8 bolts in small increments. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay H Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 Great, I will try that ASAP before my new brake pads get grooved too much. I bought 2 M8x50 bolts so i don't have to go back between the two holes as the radiator bracket bolt is only 1 so I had to back it out and move it between both holes... Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostsr20 Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 http://img65.imageshack.us/img65/5766/img0025sizedzk5.jpg Anyone have the part number for this clip? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted May 5, 2008 Author Share Posted May 5, 2008 that's part of the OEM brake pads when you buy a set. Although I dont recall seeing a seperate part number for that. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostsr20 Posted May 5, 2008 Share Posted May 5, 2008 that's part of the OEM brake pads when you buy a set. Although I dont recall seeing a seperate part number for that. Do you need them for aftermarket pads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted May 6, 2008 Author Share Posted May 6, 2008 Do you need them for aftermarket pads? to my understanding, these clips act as springs to push and keep the pads off the rotors when you are not on the brakes.. I use these clips for all pads.. it's the shims/backing plates that I skimp out on using with brake pads. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostsr20 Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 Yeah, I left those off last time too. Worked out fine and the Bobcats were quiet until they started getting low. Now they squeel every now and again. I ended up getting a set of these clips from the dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper8406 Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 great writeup...just what i was looking for Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rurouni_x Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 i'm having a lot of trouble removing the front rotors the caliper and bracket are off and the rotor will not come off. I've tried everything hammer pry bar soaked it in PBB ant thing i'm missing here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted May 18, 2009 Author Share Posted May 18, 2009 I dont recall that you need a M8 bolt to push them off the hub assembly. It sounds like your hubs and the rotor hat have some rust on it. I would just keep tapping it with a hammer evenly on each side of the rotor to loosen it, after that, it should just slide right on out. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper8406 Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 Yeah...i had to do more than tapping to get mine off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rurouni_x Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 had to use the bolts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rurouni_x Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 Any ideas on how to get a rounded hard line bolt off? Right now I'm rolling around with one SS and one oem line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mckayabrown Posted September 26, 2009 Share Posted September 26, 2009 This was exactly what I need to get my rotors off. The photos helped give me the courage to keep at it. I had to use a rubber mallet to break the rotor bracket bolts loose. Tough/tight buggars. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be back to great brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 Good walkthrough. I've changed my pads several times and found it straightforward. I always gets confused about the grease that you're supposed to put on the various shims. I've always bought the Subaru pad set and they include new shims and clips and grease, and detailed instructions on where to put the grease. I bought some after-market pads this time, and they come with no shims or instructions. I assume I re-use the old shims. But where do I put the grease ? Between pad backing plates and shim ? On side of shim that goes against pistons and caliper fingers ? Both ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted March 26, 2010 Author Share Posted March 26, 2010 yes, you can use the old shims.. and you should/can follow where you put the grease on where the subaru version shows you. Although I don't bother with anti-squeal grease.. it's just frankly not necessary. Although if you are taking apart the rubber boot off the sliding pin for the calipers, this would be a good time to do it since you have everything taken out and it's nice to have them lubed up to keep the calipers working in good order. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mckayabrown Posted March 26, 2010 Share Posted March 26, 2010 Great info. Thanks. One question. I changed my rotors and now I get a rattle sound in my front right-side brake. It goes away when the brakes are slightly pressed. I've isolated it to this side and have checked for play in the wheel to eliminate the possibility of tie-rod or axle. I can wiggle the caliper a little though when it's in place. Should I be able to do this? It appears there is a little movement/play in the caliper where it is attached with the two bolts that pass through the small rubber covers like this one you showed in this pic. Any ideas of what I might do to eliminate the rattle? http://img65.imageshack.us/img65/3152/img0031sizedxz4.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted March 26, 2010 Author Share Posted March 26, 2010 Great info. Thanks. One question. I changed my rotors and now I get a rattle sound in my front right-side brake. It goes away when the brakes are slightly pressed. I've isolated it to this side and have checked for play in the wheel to eliminate the possibility of tie-rod or axle. I can wiggle the caliper a little though when it's in place. Should I be able to do this? It appears there is a little movement/play in the caliper where it is attached with the two bolts that pass through the small rubber covers like this one you showed in this pic. Any ideas of what I might do to eliminate the rattle? http://img65.imageshack.us/img65/3152/img0031sizedxz4.jpg err, it shouldnt rattle, when you put everything back on, is there play with the rotor and the brake caliper?? because it sounds like your rotor isnt on straight or that your rim isn't properly seated with the rotor??? Other issue I can think of is that your piston is sticking? Or that your pads are worn too far to where the pad is floating within the caliper?? The only last thing I can think of is that the little brake pad indicator tab is broken off or that it's rolling around in there wedged between the caliper, the brake pad and rotor.. there shouldnt be ANY kind of rattling.. take it all off again and inspect it all again. Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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