DrD123 Posted April 21 Posted April 21 Curious about what you think - looks like with the combination of the stiff setting and the increased diameter, it should be 35% stiffer - how noticeable is it in terms of reducing body roll in corners, etc? (I had upgraded my old GT from 16 to 19 mm which gives a 99% increase which was very noticeable) - also, do the OEM endlinks work with the stiffer setting? (this is whiteline part no. BSR55Z) Sadly, there appear to be pretty much zero options for the front swaybar (unless the Outback OEM bar fits - it's 24mm vs 23mm in the Legacy - that only nets a 19% increase in stiffness, though...
MoleMan Posted April 27 Posted April 27 (edited) Here's what I think. Get both a Whiteline front AND rear Sway upgrade. So buy Whiteline Endlinks. The stock ones should be ok but in the end the Whiteline will perform better. Honestly I know guys that run no sway bar. It's common in the off road community. But get the set. I promise you your handling will increase 100 percent of not more. You could also add a front strut tower brace and it will even be better. For reference. I am running a Cusco front Strut bar as well as Whiteline front and rear sways and Endlinks on my 4TH Gen 3.0. The outback front should work fyi. On mine I had to get the outback option as well. @Sliverton. I do not want to be talking out of my ass here. But will a 7TH Gen Outback front sway interchange with a Leggy? I know of the 4th Gens they did. Edited April 27 by MoleMan
silverton Posted April 27 Posted April 27 (edited) 2015-2019 legacy outback received the same front and rear sway bars. the front is pretty beefy, the next one I have on my lift I'll measure if you're curious. sway bars are definitely one easy mod you can notice immediately Edited April 27 by silverton
DrD123 Posted April 29 Author Posted April 29 (edited) On 4/26/2025 at 6:46 PM, MoleMan said: Get both a Whiteline front AND rear Sway upgrade. So buy Whiteline Endlinks. The stock ones should be ok but in the end the Whiteline will perform better. There is no offering for a front swaybar from anyone for this generation - only a rear one from Whiteline. Some folks have posted they purchased it for a 2020-2025 Legacy, but I wasn't sure what was done with endlinks since the two holes are in different locations (10mm in either direction from the OEM location) - it's not a huge change in stiffness - about 35% (probably a bit more since the OEM is hollow). If the OEM endlinks will work, I'll stick with them - I was hoping to find that out before doing an install, though - hence my question. Edited April 29 by DrD123
MoleMan Posted May 7 Posted May 7 Sorry for the late response. Have been in Houston for a week for work. In the case of yours put the rear whiteline on. Now as far as the Endlinks. I am guessing they are adjustable? In your case it's a 50/50 decision. The stock links are fairly cheap if you needed to replace. I have never heard of anyone breaking a OEM link with an aftermarket sway setup unless they are really extreme and are doing some sort of track racing. So you will prob be fine. I say go for it.
silverton Posted May 12 Posted May 12 20+ is 24mm front, 18mm rear. as far as fitment from 20+ to 15-19, i can't say... but probably not.
MoleMan Posted May 12 Posted May 12 54 minutes ago, silverton said: 20+ is 24mm front, 18mm rear. as far as fitment from 20+ to 15-19, i can't say... but probably not. Agreed. Seems they got a lot of things right with the 4th Gens they got everything wrong with the newer gens. 1
DrD123 Posted May 15 Author Posted May 15 On 5/12/2025 at 4:26 PM, silverton said: 20+ is 24mm front, 18mm rear. I believe (or at least my micrometer believes...) the rear is 19mm and apparently it's a hollow bar, too.
DrD123 Posted May 15 Author Posted May 15 I almost wish it was 18 as that would make the decision to go with the 20mm bar easier... at the stiffest setting, it will yield an increase of 35% compared to a 19mm bar with the mounting points for the endlinks in the OEM position (that's assuming a solid 19mm - the OEM one is hollow, but as long as it's not too thin walled, it should be about the same as a solid one for torsional stiffness...
MoleMan Posted May 17 Posted May 17 (edited) On 5/15/2025 at 1:39 PM, DrD123 said: I almost wish it was 18 as that would make the decision to go with the 20mm bar easier... at the stiffest setting, it will yield an increase of 35% compared to a 19mm bar with the mounting points for the endlinks in the OEM position (that's assuming a solid 19mm - the OEM one is hollow, but as long as it's not too thin walled, it should be about the same as a solid one for torsional stiffness... Dude, Just do it already. You will see a tiny bit better handling. Don't expect your car to grip like a GTR or STI with a rear bar only upgrade. As far as the endlinks you won't even feel any difference for the way the car is being used. I mean you will be removing the bar from the oem links so now is the time to change them as it's easier if you want to upgrade. As far as the aftermarket bar it should be solid. At least that's what my Whiteline, Cuscos, and Stillen bars are. However I can't speak for Whiteline possibly changing manufacturing methods. You could always look up the part number and it should specify if it's solid or hollow. If I was to bet I would put my money on solid. You could always call Whiteline and ask those guys for more extensive specs. But yes just pull the trigger. Edited May 17 by MoleMan
fuzzysoul Posted May 21 Posted May 21 I'm running the Whiteline rear bar with the stock end links (cuz Whiteline sent me two different sized end links ). Not a wild difference, even in the stiff setting. It mostly stops a lot of the side-to-side wobble and makes the car turn in a bit faster. It does not stop the car from understeering (until the center diff wakes up halfway through a turn) or enable you to do donuts. This is still an Outback with a trunk, after all, and that bar does not change that fact. I'm very interested to see if someone has compared the newer Sport models to an older 7th Gen to see if those new shocks make a significant difference. Combining the newer - allegedly stiffer - sport shocks with a Whiteline bar and a shock tower brace might make this barge flatten out a bit.
DrD123 Posted May 24 Author Posted May 24 (edited) Ok - so confirmation that the OEM endlinks will work - thanks! I have a 7th gen sport and am running a Nameless front strut bar (made more of a difference than I would have thought - not a huge change, but more noticeable than I was expecting, which was good. For the Sport shocks, my only recent-ish comparisons are a 5th gen OEM struts (the 24 sport struts are much more heavily damped) and the Koni adjustables I installed on it which were stiffer than the sport shocks... I had larger swaybars front and rear which had a big impact on turn-in and keeping the car flat (which was a bigger issue for the 10-12 GT) - I also have wider tires on my current sport (245's on 8.5" wide rims) which made a big difference. I might go ahead with the rear sway - going from a hollow 19 to a solid 20 with the stiffer setting should be a 35-40% increase in torsional stiffness, so not expecting night and day, but should help a little... Edited May 25 by DrD123
Vegasdude Posted June 21 Posted June 21 Running rear swaybar, nameless front and rear strut brace. Car feels more planted with sharper turns and less understeer from high cornering. I suspect once I install my coilovers and wheels it will add more to the effect.
DrD123 Posted June 21 Author Posted June 21 Did you have to do much modification to get the rear strut brace to fit? I ended up going forward and getting the whiteline rear bar - definitely made a nice improvement (not huge, but definitely noticeable) - I am running the nameless front strut bar and now the whiteline rear swaybar on the stiff setting, and am on 18x8.5" wheels running 245/45-18 tires (did each install one at a time - most noticeable difference was definitely the wheels/tires, but that was going from the stock Avid GTs to wider Pirelli Pzero AS+ 3 tires.
Vegasdude Posted June 22 Posted June 22 Hello, Not sure if replying to me but for my rear brace I had to cut small holes on the liner to access the bolts. You can remove the panels so as to not make any cuts but I didn't mind for my car as I hardly use the trunk and the added brace acts as a stopper if you have small cargo in the back. I have the wheels and put them on before and did add noticeable improvement on handling but I didn't like the gap it created so waiting on coilovers to finish the setup. I bought some Kosic tires that came with the wheels as a discount but will most likely switch to some Continentals or Bridgestone down the road.
DrD123 Posted June 23 Author Posted June 23 (edited) 8 hours ago, Vegasdude said: You can remove the panels so as to not make any cuts but I didn't mind for my car as I hardly use the trunk and the added brace acts as a stopper if you have small cargo in the back. So the brace sticks up above the floor of the trunk, or is it beneath it (you mention being able to remove the panels to avoid cutting, but say it acts as a stopper for small cargo, so I wasn't sure) Edited June 23 by DrD123
dohturdima Posted July 27 Posted July 27 (edited) I am running the rear Whiteline sway on the stock links, but actually have the Whiteline links as well now (got them on some crazy 50% off sale) and haven't gotten around to installing them. Is there a reason I should replace the stocks with the Whiteline? Have the Nameless front strut brace as well installed, didn't realize the also had the rear... purchased Edited July 27 by dohturdima
dohturdima Posted July 27 Posted July 27 I meant, replacing stock links with Whiteline (already have the Whiteline rear sway installed on stock links)
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