dohturdima

Yes, but mostly a greater understeer reduction. With aftermarket sways, I usually go from least stiff to full to find the best setting - but decided to try it at max stiffness to see how it will behave (there was some concern about it being too stiff at the back and not absorbing bumps). There is still a decent amount of body roll - to have less, shocks/struts/springs and tires will need to be upgraded - not ready for any of that. Yet

Just got the sway this morning - didn't want to wait so went to my long time mechanic (and got an earful for installing suspension mods on what he thinks is a non-sport sedan, the guy is seriously old school). Decided to go with the stiffer setting - and after taking a few corners, definitely feel that the car is more taut at the back, and there is less understeer / body lean in turns - exactly what I was hoping for. Me like-y so far!

https://www.thedrive.com/guides-and-gear/why-sway-bars-should-be-your-first-suspension-mod

Update on the Whiteline rear sway - was able to reach a rep who told me that it should fit, so took a shot and ordered. I probably won't get around to installing it until May, as will be on vacation the last week of April - will report back.

What an awesome piece of news, if true. According to the Whiteline site, it should fit my '22 Touring XT, but yes Outback and Legacy have different sways. Emailed Whiteline for clarification.

Don't know if this will help or not in your situation, as I did not install my dash cam myself but had a shop that I used for a while install it (they said that used a mirrortap and used a wiring kit that I purchased along with my camera). My dual dash cam and the accompanying wiring kit. There is an install thread on SubaruOutback forum that may help you find the correct fuses.

Made a trip to AZP Installs (a shop in NJ that specializes in Subarus, which was recommended by someone on this forum, and I now also recommend) install spacers in the back to give a car a bit of a lift and change the angle that was creating a "butt sag". I initially said I wanted the Outback rear springs but Mike of AZP recommended spacers and it worked out very well - the rear sits higher and I expect to no longer be flashed by oncoming cars at night due to my headlights pointing too upward. They also installed the Perrin steering dampener lockdown and transmission mount, but claimed that the STi Group N pitch stop mount did not work with my car so did not end up installing it. I would say it's much easier and less expensive to put in 1/2" or 1" spacers in the rear and call it a day. They would be less expensive and provide you with the lift and subsequent squat back to stock level that you are looking for. You will have a rake in the rear when not loaded down but that's the nature of the beast. Here is what we have for you: Rallitek Rear 1" Spacers Installation Hunter Hawkeye Elite Standard 4 Wheel Alignment

Lol, wasn't aware it was a common issue in Subarus. In my prior sedan (07 Infiniti G35x) the shocks lasted 150K (but nearly every other suspension component failed prior to that, go figure). All I know is that I wouldn't have noticed this if it wasn't pointed out to me - not something I am used to checking routinely on my own when changing oil.

There is another thread which links to the Outback forum, where a user uploaded the update file on their Google Drive - can be downloaded and loaded on NTFS-formatted 64GB or larger (recommended) USB drive. The steps are described there as well (attached is the PDF with the instructions) 15-305-22R_020124 (1).pdf

I had no idea that these OTA updates were mandatory - was there an explanation in the email as to why it was (was it intended to fix any specific fault(s))? I have a '22 and haven't received anything, but mine is a pre-latest facelift model. Don't know if it possible to roll it back and prevent it from being installed again - but definitely reach out to the dealer and report this as a bug, and ask them if it is possbile to roll it back and prevent it from installing until this issue is fixed in the (hopefully) next update. In my car, just checked and it is -280 version (and it switches between SiriusXM presets just fine). and while I have the "automatically download" update checked off, when I push "check for updates" I get "not connected to internet" message. So it may be possible to prevent an OTA by just keeping your wifi off. Another thing I found on the Outback forum is that the OTA update may not be the "full" (Dealer/OTA) update but rather a "light" version. Maybe installing the full update using the USB method will correct the issue? IMO, you can also go to the dealer and have them reapply the update - the car is under warranty and if there is a feature that the OTA update broke, they should not be charging you for it.

Took my 22' Legacy XT to my mechanic for a routine oil change, and he pointed out that my LR shock was covered with hydraulic fluid (other three were dry/fine). I was a bit sceptical at first, with the car a bit over 7K on the ODO -but he noted that the strut base was also covered with fluid so I took it to a dealer earlier today. They inspected it and confirmed that the LR shock needed to be replaced, ordered a new one and it should arrive next week and will be replaced under warranty. Dealer tech told me it's not very common for a shock to go bad this early, and I am inclined to agree (did a search on the Outback forum and found just one reported instance of this, with 30K miles on the ODO). Could have been a dud part, or a pothole hit. In any case, recommend checking your shocks for leakage when you have it on a lift. "The best way to check your shock absorbers is to feel the damper (the rod) with your fingers. Your fingers should stay dry, but if they do feel slightly wet, wipe the damper down and check it again a couple of days later. If you can then feel oil or see that your shock absorbers are leaking, head to a garage straight away"

Thank you, this makes sense. I thought it may be due to the battery voltage being low due to taking too many short trips and (possibly?) the battery starting to go bad. Dropped it off at the dealer now, for a diagnostic which will include testing the battery (they are aware of the battery TSB - hope but don't expect that it will apply in my case). Will see what they say, but if the battery tests fine will make it a habit to trickle charge it periodically and may possibly look into getting an Odyssey as a replacement down the road. Update: the battery did test bad, which now explains the above. They are apparently replacing it with the same one, which makes little sense as per TSB. Will speak to the CSR about this. Update #2: CSR apologizes - they are installing the upgraded higher capacity battery as per TSB Did buy a set of Smartliner mats to replace my OEM ones.

You were right, it was dielectric grease stained with SO4 from the contact. Cleaned it up, reapplied Permatex dielectric grease, tested the battery with a Schumacher battery tester - tests fine. All the fluids seem OK as well, and after restarting the car a few times - all of the errors disappeared. Very strange... Will try to update the software on the head unit later today, don't know whether I should keep the dealership appointment but this was pretty unsettling.

I have Weathertech liners in my other car, and while they are nice and form fitting, one downside is they don't have stiff edges - so the edges fold inward with use and allow dirt to get in on the bottom and the sides. Since my WT mats are over 4 years old, don't know if WT addressed this, since that is what Smartliner is advertising. My Legacy all-weather mats are OEM, and they are just "ok", the rear mat is all bent out of shape by the drivers seat.

@Dantvballcoach - Thank you for your input, and since you haven't added much on topic here - consider taking your own advice and "lighten up".

Well, I think I spoke too soon - car died out of the blue, called AAA and this is what my positive terminal looks like: Will be heading to the dealer to ask for a replacement, if they will deny will still get rid of it and replace it with Odyssey ODP-AGM47 H5 L2, as they are doing in the Outback forum.

Very timely topic - definitely the battery. I take a lot of short trips and today the car wouldn't start after I parked it next to my kids' dentist office (of course, it had to happen on a day it was pouring rain, on a metered parking spot). Strangely, I could not jump start it with a fully charged NOCO GV40. Thankfully, it is walking disctance to my house - SO and kids went home, and I called AAA and took my other car to give it a proper jump start. The tech was already there with their jumper and it started right up - showing a RAB (Reverse Automatic Braking) error - something I haven't seen before. The battery + terminal had a lot of sulfuric gunk all around it - never seen so much of this on any of my other cars, and it is usually an indicator of a failing battery - this was discussed in another thread about a battery TSB on these cars. I had start-stop disabled over a year ago, so if anything it should have saved the battery. Will take it to the dealer for a look-see, and possibly get my battery swapped. If no other issues other than the battery, even if the dealer claims it is "OK" will change it out for a different brand/better battery. I had luck with Costco's interstate batteries, but am disappointed in Subaru - never had a battery fail in a new car after only two years.

My first thought was, "WRX has air suspension? Kewl!". Honestly, I wouldn't think about retrofitting it on the Legacy - the system was not designed for our cars, and too many things can fail even if you so ehow were able to get the install to work. I wouldn't mess with Legacy's suspension at all - it is a very good suspension setup that soaks up bumps and compares favorably with my '18 Q7 with air suspension. If granny needs a higher vehicle, consider borrowing an SUV with floorboards.

This happened to my wife recently, and I sent her this YouTube video to help unlock the steering wheel. Apparently turning the steering wheel after the car is shut off locks it, which is a security feature. To unlock it, need to turn the wheel (which will have a slight give) to the left or the right while keeping your foot on the brake simultaneously starting the car. The video is for keyed starter, but the same rule applies to the keyless. https://youtu.be/1mOM3yj-P8A?si=uyOvniZyuVmf3gQa

Well, given that there are roughly 3?Outbacks sold for every Legacy sedan, it's not surprising.

I noticed that the iPhone would get hot when using the Subaru charger, so stopped using it and instead got a Magsafe vent-attached charger which works perfectly without overheating phone.

Dude, you should know as well as anyone it's not the electronics but thought behind the bypass and the supply /demand. Some pay 1k for a set of chrome rims, others think it ridiculous waste of $. As for the rest, "an insult is only an insult if accepted". Could not agree more. The problem is, manufacturers are deliberately taking these choices away. I can still code using OBD11 in my '18 Audi Q7, but as of '23 the coding is no longer possible.

No argument from me, I am relatively new on this forum- but no one is 100% right all the time . Silverton's point was that ASS eliminator is a worthless mod, given that we can turn it off with a touch of a button - that paying $100 for it is stupid, and he wishes that he had ASS in his car and operational. My point was that not having to remember to do it every single time I start the car was worth it to me, that I find ASS (not just in this car, but in any car I've ever driven thus far) an annoying and useless feature and there are plenty of others who share this opinion (which is why the sellers of Autostop eliminator have a number of cars listed, and would have folded shop a while ago if the demand wasn't there). My point is, not every new feature is necessarily going to be a winner: ABS was and still is, ASS is not - at least, not yet. The negative impact the ASS has on your starter, the timing chain, the fact that now we need to pay extra for an AGM battery does not seem to phase the manufactures fighting for every MPG (no matter how meager the savings) to demonstrate their committment to improving gas mileage. Ethanol in gasoline, recent push towards EVs that is now being scaled back - plenty of similar examples of "great" ideas that aren't ready for prime time. The above is my opiniton, and it's OK to disagree and argue your point, but try to do so without ad hominem (calling another's choice "silly", telling them to stick to buying old tech, and posting that Youtube video certainly was). Lastly, I'm aware that Subaru owes me nothing, just as any car manufacturer - and they can add, remove features or make them more nagging - without warning. When I test drove the Legacy, I noticed the intrusive and half-baked Driver Monitoring System - the Salesperson simply shrugged his shoulders and showed me how to turn it off, and "it will stay off it you want it to". Well, it did stay off - until I installed a software update, which caused DMS to turn on with every start, with me hunting though the menus to turn it off (along with ASS). Thankfully, a piece of electrical tape solved that problem. The ASS bypass solved another.

The point seems lost on you, so you resort to absurd strawman argument about ABS. If ASS was such a similarly useful / popular feature, why does every major auto forum has a thread dedicated turning it off? Yep, you wish that you could have come up with bypass but you did not, whereas someone else did for multiple makes / models and is now raking in the $$$ from all of us rubes, who could have just pushed a button

I wouldn't be too concerned about carbon buildup and oil burn in a Japanese engine, whcih is deliberately designed to for longevity rather than performance-first (vs Germans, which burn oil and contribute to carbon buildup). Just change oil as recommended and add a Techtron or similar every other change.