Engine Refresh - Studs, gaskets, etc...

[KZJonny]

Bottom side cleaned up, sealed and torqued. Just waiting overnight for the oil pan rtv to cure before I flip it and let the little bit of remaining oil come into contact with it.

Overkill I know, but whatever. It does say to give the stuff 24 hours before putting into use.

Tonight or tomorrow I’ll start in on more. Trim the oil pan tab, install manifolds, etc.

the heat sheilding I had on order should arrive before the weekend, so I can install all of that before dropping it back in the bay….

Edited April 11 by KZJonny

[RumblyXT]

38 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

I looked great on the backside too.)

I'm sure that was a typo.. 

Good progress! 

Edited April 11 by RumblyXT

[KZJonny]

5 minutes ago, RumblyXT said:

I'm sure that was a typo.. 

Good progress! 

Typo, yes. But true on both counts. My GF confirms this, no bias there at all.

[KZJonny]

I am immediately 100% sold on soda blasting.

Before and after. Note: this took about 2 minutes, and I have never used one before in my life… crazy.

Blasting soda is on sale right now: might have to go pick up another bag. I’m going to want to blast everything sight now. Hah!

Edited April 15 by KZJonny

[RumblyXT]

4 hours ago, KZJonny said:

I am immediately 100% sold on soda blasting.

Before and after. Note: this took about 2 minutes, and I have never used one before in my life… crazy.

Blasting soda is on sale right now: might have to go pick up another bag. I’m going to want to blast everything sight now. Hah!

I had no idea that existed, all I knew was sand blasting, but it seems a lot better than blasting sand which can wear out mating surfaces much faster if not careful.

That has to be so satisfying seeing how good those greasy old parts look almost new again. Great work!

[KZJonny]

6 minutes ago, RumblyXT said:

I had no idea that existed, all I knew was sand blasting, but it seems a lot better than blasting sand which can wear out mating surfaces much faster if not careful.

That has to be so satisfying seeing how good those greasy old parts look almost new again. Great work!

Yeah. Best thing is you just rinse the part in hot water thoroughly when you are done, and there goes all the abrasive. Nothing left behind to scratch up delicate parts.

Just a slightly basic solution that rinses away when you’re done….

[RumblyXT]

Sounds great. And I'm sure is much cheaper than an expensive ultrasonic machine, plus you can also do much bigger parts.

[KZJonny]

Yup. The full story is that the TGVs had already been cleaned in the ultrasonic for a couple of baths with some very hot water and HD Simple Green, which is safe for aluminium. Normal Simple Green is not, tho is it a good cleaner in general.

I didn't take any 'before before' photos, but rest assured, they were much worse. Greasy, as you say. The US cleaner took care of most of that.

What was left was really hardened dirt and oxidation. Now the dull grey oxidation I don't mind, it is harder than plain aluminium, so it's actually kind of better to leave it alone than polish the metal to a shine, but that is a personal preference. I don't mind that part of it, but if you look close, you can see how the surface was 'textured' with a sort of very hard sandy looking grot. You could get that off with a brass wire brush, but that is relatively a pain in the ass, and time consuming. So I decided to have a go at the soda blaster.

They are pretty popular in the motorcycle world because you have so much more exposed aluminium on most bikes. So, if it isn't clean, you often see a lot of it. By comparison, the block below the intake manifold on my engine looks like crap, but you never really see it once the whole thing is assembled, so I am willing to live with it.

For those interested, I got the soda blasting canister for ~$130 CAD shipped. (Buytools.ca https://outilsquebec.com/en/air-tools-and-accessories/7318-soda-blasting-abrasive-unit-sdb07g.html) I honestly think this might be a mistake on the pricing, since normally a 15L blaster is about the same price, and I have seen the 7 gal/40lb kits on sale for ~$300 elsewhere, but that is not my problem, and I now have one, so happy days.)

A 50lb bag of blasting soda was $80, and I would guess I used maybe a couple pounds tops to do the 2 x TGVs. That said, it went on sale for $50 and I dropped in at the store with my reciept and they refunded the difference. Might go get another bag while it is on sale.

 

I was also just blasting into my back yard, so it was a total loss on media. (which again, just dissolves into the lawn and adjusts the pH slightly up, no big deal....) It would not be hard to set up a frame/backstop and some kind of plastic film/tarpaulin to catch the media and reuse it. Anything super fine can be discarded, but there was for sure a lot of the large(ish) granules remaining when I was done that would have had more life in them. I suppose you could also use it in a cabinet, but it does get dusty pretty fast, so I think I will stick to this method for now.

You'll also need a pretty good air compressor, so that is a big investment, but if you already have one, then all good. I have a 240V 60 gallon compressor with a line filter and regulator in my basement already, so easy enough for me on that one. The soda blaster comes with it's own regulator and water trap as well, helping to prevent the media from getting damp and clumping up, I presume.

 

It's an investment for sure, but from first impressions, I can certainly recommend trying it. I *really* wanted a vapour hone/blaster, but at like $2K USD for an entry level one, I decided to try this out first. That is a lot of blasting soda to make up the difference!!!

Edited April 16 by KZJonny

[KZJonny]

Took off yesterday in lieu of Easter, which I had worked. Awesome day to be in the garage and working on my things.

On top of getting my electrical signed off on, got a lot of work done on the engine. Totally forgot the 'order of operations' for how the coolant pipes and fuel lines need to be installed, so that was a little bit of install/torque, then unfasten, move and re-install... hah!

Also may  have forgot to install on of the big m10 bolts that hold a turbo support bracket to the block. Ugh. Loosen all other bolts, and use just finger tips to get it started and long crank handled wrench to tighten it, like 1/16" of a turn at a time.....

Still, happy with most of this. Plenty of rusty stuff either replaced or repaired and POR 15'd. New fuel lines, rubber hoses, seals, etc... Installing the turbo inlet is a hundred times easier with out the IM in the way of course.

I'll take more photos next time I am out there for an evening, hopefully soon. I really like the subtle bling from the SS fasteners replacing all the rusted heads on the OE stuff. Downside is that if you drop one somewhere in the bay, you're not going to be able to fish it out with a magnet. Not so much a problem as long as you don't drop it into the intake or whatever. You can push around most dropped fasteners with compressed air, etc.... I also didn't notice that the M8 x 20mm SS bolts I bought have 13mm hex heads instead of 14mm! It's fine, but the Subie purist in me chafes at that a little. I now need 4 different size sockets to disassemble the entire engine bay, instead of the 3 it used to take.... 

Edited April 16 by KZJonny

[KZJonny]

Another thought as I get closer to install and fire up.
 

Since I have had the thing apart, and done some cleaning and installation of lots of new bits, I thought it wouldn't be the worst idea to run some cheap oil through the engine first. My plan was to just get a 5L of the cheapest 5w30 available at CT, and maybe add a half cup of ATF to it for extra detergent action.

My intention with this was just to make sure the oil pressure gauge works before turning the enigne over, and to catch any tiny amounts of contamination I wasn't able to clean away or didn't see during the reassembly process.

 

So... run this while idling the engine to warm it up and burping the coolant only. No load, no road use. Once engine is hot, and the coolant is done bubbling, dump warm oil install new filter + fresh Rotell T6 5w40 and should be good to go boosting along down the road?

Edited April 16 by KZJonny

[RumblyXT]

1 hour ago, KZJonny said:

I not need 4 different size socket to dissasemble the entire engine bay.... 

Haha  

This wrench was very useful around those bolts you mentioned by the turbo.

Edited April 16 by RumblyXT

[KZJonny]

27 minutes ago, RumblyXT said:

Haha  

This wrench was very useful around those bolts you mentioned by the turbo.

Yup. That is what I used as well. Just the Canadian version. Hah!

[KZJonny]

Getting there….

[RumblyXT]

Looking good, moving right along! EL header?, what brand?

And is that an analog oil pressure sensor/sender?

Edited April 19 by RumblyXT

[KZJonny]

Killer B header + up pipe. I like the sound of efficiency more than rumble.  It helps out with spool as well.

I have blankets for the up-pipe, turbo and down pipe so it keeps a lot of heat in the system. All that going in to a JMP Custom VF40 means fully spooled by ~2700 or so. Not a fast car, but she gets off the line like a scalded cat.

The sending unit is for an analogue/electronic oil pressure gauge, yeah. I don’t know yet if it will fit with the alternator, but I certainly hope so. I moved the stock ‘replace engine light’ to the rear galley because it fits there and I don’t want to have a false oil pressure light on all the time.

I guess worst case I either install a fully manual pressure gauge with an oil line to the cabin, or get a digital one. I’d rather not do either to be fair. Ha!

Edited April 19 by KZJonny

[Max Capacity]

Not sure I'd add ATF to the oil. It might give too much cleaning during that important time. 

 

Oh, prefit the tmic to the turbo, before putting the engine back in the car. You can thank me later.

[KZJonny]

1 hour ago, Max Capacity said:

Oh, prefit the tmic to the turbo, before putting the engine back in the car. You can thank me later.

I believe you, but does it matter with the Grimmspeed TMIC?

I found it to be super easy to install because both ends are silicon pipes.

Or do you mean a little more for the OE unit. (Which I found to be a real bear to get re-attached to the turbo/throttle body…)

 

And I am good to skip the ATF as a detergent for now. I may try it in future as I do oil changes. Throw it in for just a few kilometers before doing an oil change. Really gently keep everything clean.

[RumblyXT]

On 4/16/2024 at 11:03 AM, KZJonny said:

Since I have had the thing apart, and done some cleaning and installation of lots of new bits, I thought it wouldn't be the worst idea to run some cheap oil through the engine first. My plan was to just get a 5L of the cheapest 5w30 available at CT, and maybe add a half cup of ATF to it for extra detergent action.

How about just running 5 Qts of cheap thinner oil a few times, maybe 0W-20 with the oil pan plug off and filtering the oil with a white old rag or T-shirt on a clean orange/clear bucket every time you reintroduce the oil into the motor to help it rinse/rid any unwanted bits. The color contrast should make it easy to spot little pieces with the old white T-shirt and the fresh thin oil if any at all come out the motor. I actually thought about doing this when I put things back together.

Edit: Actually not 0W-20. I’d be concerned if some of that thiner oil stays in certain areas. Best to use cheap 5W-30.

Edited April 20 by RumblyXT

[Max Capacity]

Pre-fitting, the GS tmic, may help verify that everything lines up with the brackets on the block.

[RumblyXT]

Inspiration!

 

[KZJonny]

First UOA from Oil Analizers. They do shipping within Canada and are associated with Amsoil, so easy to get your hands on and saves us Canucks from having to either ship cross-border or run over and send things in person. Easier and faster.

The only REAL thing is the water level, and since there are no accompanying elevated levels of Sodium and Potassium which would be expected with coolant getting into the oil (Head gaskets were starting to fail, but only between the combustion chamber and the coolant jacket, not into the oil galleys....)

I am going to attribute the water to a couple of cold weather starts while the car sat in the garage + condensation in the sump. This was the oil from last driving season, left in the car over winter, more so whatever oil I add in the Spring is super fresh and hasn't been kickin around for months. Turns out this was a good strategy, since the oil that was in it go dumped and thrown out.... Better that it was old and not new and fresh.

So, I'm going to run a batch of conventional 5w30 through the engine for first start up, and long enough to get the cooland burped and confirm oil pressure, etc... All the usual stuff. This will go through the 5000km old Tokyo Roki filter from last year, which should have lots of filtration capacity left in it. As soon as initial start up and warm up is done, I figure I'll collect that oil in a clean container and put it in the Yaris. Hahah! I really doubt that thing will care, and after a few minutes of running in the EJ, it should be well and truly filtered and still very fresh and good to go.

If I am wrong, then I carry on with my plans to swap a Corlla 1.8L into the Yaris and *really* get that nugget rocketing down the road. Ha!

 

I'm going to carry on using the currnet oil cooler and see what the results are at my next UOA. If there is no noticeably amount of water, and the copper levels are normal, I will chalk it up to the oil sitting too long and condensation from a couple of cold starts withough sufficient time to boil water out of the oil.

If they return, then I'll throw in a new oil cooler and try again!

[KZJonny]

13 minutes ago, RumblyXT said:

Inspiration!

 

Awesome!

I lived in BC for a while and those roads are for real. Also worked in Northern Alberta for quite a while, but generally took roads like that in my Ford F350....

Wonder if that is an H6? I couldn't see from the video... Either way. I wouldn't try in my stock height LGT, haha! But the OBW? I would 100% take mine down that kind of road.

[RumblyXT]

36 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

Wonder if that is an H6? I couldn't see from the video...

Hehe that was my first thought too.. Regardless I’ve never taken muddy roads that bad, I gotta try it down here once the rainy season comes to the Everglades.

But dang! BC has such beautiful scenery!

Edited April 22 by RumblyXT

[RumblyXT]

Don’t mean to thread jack, but I figured I’d post this since you’re a chemistry guy and you’re refreshing your motor, not sure if you need to refresh your headlights too..

I wonder if this acetone vapor method would last, might need some clear coat spray afterwards to seal it. Seems super easy and cheap, I might try it since the headlights on our Outback look like chit.

 

[KZJonny]

1 minute ago, RumblyXT said:

Don’t mean to thread jack, but I figured I’d post this since you’re a chemistry guy and you’re refreshing your motor, not sure if you need to refresh your headlights too..

I wonder if this acetone vapor method would last, might need some clear coat spray afterwards to seal it. Seems super easy and cheap, I might try it since the headlights on our Outback look like chit.

 

Yeah. I think it works well. @jaylew did that not long ago, and I think he did a bit of a DIY setup to make the acetone vapour... He might be a good guy to reach out to about it.

My feeling is that you get a great surface, but that the UV inhibitors in the plastic are still used up, and the lens needs protection again after the refresh, but maybe I'm wrong on that, and re-melting the surface to a uniform layer is enough to get back to a 'close to OE' finish.

I have a set of lenses that I've cleaned and sanded down to good plastic, and I am just going to hit them with some 2K clearcoat. It's not perfect, but for a 3 season car that I put away in the garage for the winter, that should be good for 5+ years, and already have all the eqiupment to do it. Tho, seeing neat new tools always makes me want to try them out. (Like this acetone vapour kettle)

 

I would however, suggest if you try this you use an activated charcoal respirator, not just a surgical mask. Acetone isn't the *worst* thing out there, but I try not to breath too much solvent fumes no matter what I'm doing!