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Oil burn, wet oil on BOV and near it, etc, etc


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hey guys

I had this Legacy GT for 8 months, and around the end of July my oil burning issue got significantly worse after a ~2 hour road trip.

It burns oil, a significant and noticeable amount out of the tailpipe, so much so people have stopped and asked me if I was aware.

Its gotten worse over time.

Here are some things I noticed after moving the car after it sat for about a month and some change:

* There is oil on my blow off valve, and near it, and signs that the oil is leaking from there.

* There WAS oil at one point in my intercooler pipe

* Oil leaks from the bottom of my turbo

* The oil return line from the turbo is kinked and not in place (but still connected)

* NO knocking, or even any weird sound just sounds like any subaru

* I have a CEL for MAF and Speed sensor 

* Power steering fluid likes to disappear 

 

I called TPG Tuning here in PA, told them it MIGHT be piston rings, got quoted ~8k for a new Type RA shortblock and to do the rings

Unfortunately, I would just swap the motor and restart (which I'd prefer, no clue what the previous owner has done to the car) but EJ255 engines are quite expensive lately. Could go the 2 liter route, but unsure of how much that would cost.

Overall, this thing is a pos, and has been lovingly coined by my friends, sh*tbox since I've had it. However, I had an absolute blast in this thing for a long time before the issues really showed themselves.

Give me some guidance, whether or not I should part it out, I definitely do NOT have 8k to drop (I'm in highschool still lmao)

Thanks.

 

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You can either rebuild it if you really love it, or sell it and start over. 8K is a bit high, but each shop it different when it comes to price. I understand if the price is too high, but I think you got the short end of the stick with this LGT. Mine was smoking and leaking oil so bad when i bought it, meaning i knew I was going to spend 8K plus to get it where I want it. It's all about the money you want to spend.

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Before commiting to  a rebuild or partout, I would consider a few diagnostic options.

The kinked turbo oil drain and oil leaking from the turbo raises some alarm bells. It doesn't take too much back pressure to blow out the oil seals, which would cause a number of the problems you've listed (oil in the intake tract, BOV, etc....) If this is the case, then you'd still be in for a turbo rebuild/find a used unit or what have you... Or go one better, and have it rebuilt by @JmP6889928, definitely your best option. IF this was the case, you'd still be in for some $$$, but not rebuilit engine money. A blocked oil drain putting more pressure on the oil seals may also explain why the problem got meaningfully worse over a short time.

Of course, you'd want to further diagnose the problem. A compression and/or leakdown test would give you a much better idea of the health of the engine, and whether or not the rings are to blame. I would start there. The tools are inexpensive, and a DIY test it totally within reach, as long as you have the tools and an air compressor. Cheap enough to borrow or buy, and more tools you have if you do any further work on cars in the future.

If compression/leakdown come back good, and you throw a new drain hose in, you'll still be pushing oil into the intake, but probably a lot less. Not a lot of money to figure out if it is the culprit. If so, time for a new/rebuilt turbo.

 

You don't mention the age and mileage of the car, which could play into it, but if it isn't terribly high miles, there is a reasonable chance the shortblock isn't bad....

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Also just realized this topic was familiar….

Members here are happy to help, and try to keep more of these old girls on the road, but if you ask for advice, get some, then come back 4 months later having done nothing to correct it, and the symptoms are predictably worse… sympathy begins to fade pretty quick.

Let us know what you do to diagnose and correct the problems, and we’re behind you. Being in high school probably presents some monetary challenges, but with some low cost tools and time, you can at least figure out this problem. Just gotta put in the time and elbow grease.

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1 hour ago, KZJonny said:

Also just realized this topic was familiar….

Members here are happy to help, and try to keep more of these old girls on the road, but if you ask for advice, get some, then come back 4 months later having done nothing to correct it, and the symptoms are predictably worse… sympathy begins to fade pretty quick.

Let us know what you do to diagnose and correct the problems, and we’re behind you. Being in high school probably presents some monetary challenges, but with some low cost tools and time, you can at least figure out this problem. Just gotta put in the time and elbow grease.

Some of us just won’t give you advice again with the same questions and no attempt to rectify any of the issues. Your oil drain is likely your root cause. If the drain is kinked and your motor is throwing all that oil pressure at it will find the weakest place to leak which is usually through the shaft seals and into the compressor and turbine housing causing the smoke and oil in your intercooler.

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11 hours ago, KZJonny said:

Also just realized this topic was familiar….

Members here are happy to help, and try to keep more of these old girls on the road, but if you ask for advice, get some, then come back 4 months later having done nothing to correct it, and the symptoms are predictably worse… sympathy begins to fade pretty quick.

Let us know what you do to diagnose and correct the problems, and we’re behind you. Being in high school probably presents some monetary challenges, but with some low cost tools and time, you can at least figure out this problem. Just gotta put in the time and elbow grease.

Going to do the comp/leakdown test, and since that last post haven't driven it besides if it was necessary (like the trip I mentioned in the post, nobody else could get me there) and now I am actually able to do the work, and I did look closer at a lot of things, which is why I made a new post. I apologize, but I am ready to start taking a crack at diagnosing on my own, thanks for replying again 

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Gotta start somewhere, hopefully it's the easy fix.

Don't mean to be shitty right on your first couple times being here, but better to have someone let you know how things roll on the forum. Put in the work and research a little before asking every question that comes to mind, and you'll get tons of support. On the other hand, ask questions that have been answered 18 places already, and you may get a whole lot of silence.

 

Good luck with the diagnosis and swapping that drain hose. I remember it being a real PITA to get mine attached when I swapped turbos, but some long extensions on my 1/4" ratchet eventually got it there.

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