Need some help with my 06 Legacy

[NikolaiR]

Hi, i just bought a legeacy 06 that looked real good and everything. the day after the purchace i got a check enginelight with the codes p1137 and p2441. i cant figure out whats wrong i am not a mechanic at all so when i read about this i am clueless. so i wonder if someone here could help me out and dumb it down. i asked the shop what they charged by the hour and it was 200$ so ill try to do it myself.

thank you so much for your time!

[KZJonny]

‘Simple’ walkthrough to diagnose and repair the P1224 code:

https://www.clubwrx.net/threads/p2441-cel-how-to-fix-it-yourself.134381834/

In short your secondary air pump system isn’t working properly and it’s throwing a code. I don’t know enough about them, since my car doesn’t have one, but I think they mainly work until the engine is warm, so it may not be a big deal, or threaten your engine health? Someone else will know more, but it’s probably not a critical repair.

[KZJonny]

P1137 generally seems to be the forward O2 sensor from a quick google search. I don’t know what the code reader is saying something about brakes, which would make me think ABS codes??

This is GT model?

Sensor is an easy fix, messing around ohming out circuits is tedious but not terribly hard. You just need a cheap multimeter.

If you have some basic tools, you should be able to follow those steps. If that seems to intimidating, or requires more mechanical know how than you’ve up to, you may be in for a world of hurt owning an 18 year old turbo subaru.

Good luck!

[NikolaiR]

3 hours ago, KZJonny said:

P1137 generally seems to be the forward O2 sensor from a quick google search. I don’t know what the code reader is saying something about brakes, which would make me think ABS codes??

This is GT model?

Sensor is an easy fix, messing around ohming out circuits is tedious but not terribly hard. You just need a cheap multimeter.

If you have some basic tools, you should be able to follow those steps. If that seems to intimidating, or requires more mechanical know how than you’ve up to, you may be in for a world of hurt owning an 18 year old turbo subaru.

Good luck!

It's not a gt model, and I don't believe it's the abs wouldn't it be a abs lamp lit up on the dash? 

When I tried reading about it I read a lot about the valves under the exhaust manifold and the secondary air pump should be deleted and install blanking plates. Could this be it or is that an other code? 

[silverton]

Neither of those codes are listed in your model's p-code charts, which means you shouldn't have them. the fact it's showing the description that it is for p1137; makes that scanner incredibly questionable in my eyes.

[NikolaiR]

48 minutes ago, silverton said:

Neither of those codes are listed in your model's p-code charts, which means you shouldn't have them. the fact it's showing the description that it is for p1137; makes that scanner incredibly questionable in my eyes.

Oh that's weird.. I went to a shop earlier and they scanned the car and printed out a whole sheet with codes, does this make more sense? It's all in Norwegian but the codes are the same ain't them? 

 

Edited May 16, 2023 by NikolaiR

[KZJonny]

Phew....

Okay, so I took a quick look at all those P codes (I don't have the tools to bring up DTC codes at home, nor the sotfware.)

Those show faults in all kinds of sensors, intake air, PCV, secondary air system, control modules etc...

I would assume those codes will all be the same, but there may be some differences between EDM and USDM ECM's, I don't know.
There are a few members on here from Europe who might have some insight there...

 

Before you start chasing everything down individually, I would to a general health check of your wiring harness and grounds. Probably
won't hurt to have the battery health checked as well. Those are quite a lot of sensor based codes to happen all at once, so I wonder,
if there is any chance of damage to the wiring harness somewhere (abrasion, melting, rodents chewing on it?) Bad ground connections
can cause all kinds of havoc as well, so finding, inspecting and cleaning them might help. A battery with less than full charge will prevent
you from being able to properly diagnose and asses electrical issues too, so be sure you have a healthy battery before wasting time on 
anything else. See if any connectors anywhere are loose as well. If they aren't clean and snapped securely into place, then you'll have problems.
This seems pretty obvious, but these things happen. I had hyperflash on my turn signals this weekend when I took my car out for a cruise
after it was put away for the winter and I did a little work on it. Turns out I hadn't seated the connectors for the front turn signals all the way.
When I clicked them home tightly, problem solved.

Lots of people here are happy to help, but you might find that subaruoutback.org is a good place to look as well. Most of the members here
have turbo models (hence the website name legacygt.com and while they share some similarity with the non-turbo cars, they are very
different in the engine bay, for example...) where most of the membership at subaruoutback.org have NA cars, and lots of those are 2.5i's.
You may also find it helpful to post any other thread up in the 'Naturally Aspirated Engines' folder. This one is focused on the 4th Gen LGT
for the most part.

 

[NikolaiR]

2 hours ago, KZJonny said:

Phew....

Okay, so I took a quick look at all those P codes (I don't have the tools to bring up DTC codes at home, nor the sotfware.)

Those show faults in all kinds of sensors, intake air, PCV, secondary air system, control modules etc...

I would assume those codes will all be the same, but there may be some differences between EDM and USDM ECM's, I don't know.
There are a few members on here from Europe who might have some insight there...

 

Before you start chasing everything down individually, I would to a general health check of your wiring harness and grounds. Probably
won't hurt to have the battery health checked as well. Those are quite a lot of sensor based codes to happen all at once, so I wonder,
if there is any chance of damage to the wiring harness somewhere (abrasion, melting, rodents chewing on it?) Bad ground connections
can cause all kinds of havoc as well, so finding, inspecting and cleaning them might help. A battery with less than full charge will prevent
you from being able to properly diagnose and asses electrical issues too, so be sure you have a healthy battery before wasting time on 
anything else. See if any connectors anywhere are loose as well. If they aren't clean and snapped securely into place, then you'll have problems.
This seems pretty obvious, but these things happen. I had hyperflash on my turn signals this weekend when I took my car out for a cruise
after it was put away for the winter and I did a little work on it. Turns out I hadn't seated the connectors for the front turn signals all the way.
When I clicked them home tightly, problem solved.

Lots of people here are happy to help, but you might find that subaruoutback.org is a good place to look as well. Most of the members here
have turbo models (hence the website name legacygt.com and while they share some similarity with the non-turbo cars, they are very
different in the engine bay, for example...) where most of the membership at subaruoutback.org have NA cars, and lots of those are 2.5i's.
You may also find it helpful to post any other thread up in the 'Naturally Aspirated Engines' folder. This one is focused on the 4th Gen LGT
for the most part.

 

Thank you so much, I will check out the battery and wiring around the car first then I'll go to the other website if that doesn't solve the problem. Thank you again. 

[KZJonny]

11 minutes ago, NikolaiR said:

Thank you so much, I will check out the battery and wiring around the car first then I'll go to the other website if that doesn't solve the problem. Thank you again. 

You're welcome. Hopefully you have some luck tracking down the source of those codes. I have a hard time believing that many sensors all failed at the same time, so perhaps there is some common wiring problem that is causing it.

People here remain happy to help, but asking the question on subaruoutback as well might net you some more answers.

[silverton]

I'm in agreement with @KZJonny.  Many of the 'Komfort' codes are power supply voltage errors, and as they said with that many sensors failing, it's either a faulty ground or faulty battery.

 

I would love to see a picture of the engine bay! being from the US it's wild seeing a Legacy model code preceded by JF1 instead of 4s3/4s4