Outback XT cams slipped during timing job

[Chulew]

I ordered an OEM timing kit 6 months ago and just opened her up to do the job. I ordered a cam lock tool off Amazon when I ordered the kit (I found it in the box but don't remember ordering that). I also just got another cam lock tool from Amazon since I forgot I had already ordered one. Both tools do not fit in the 10mm cam bolt heads (my 10mm allen socket driver fits perfect, 3/8 is a bit loose). 

I decided to improvise and found some hardware to make it work but it came loose and my cams both slipped (top rotated counter clockwise and bottom rotated clockwise, both about 90 degrees). My crank marks are 12 and 3 o'clock (triangle at 3).

Did I bend my valve stems? Am I screwed? How would I know?

I am going to try again with better fitting hardware or try to find the right cam lock kit but both tools I ordered say they are for my car 07 OBXT DOHC. Can anyone confirm their cam bolts take the 10mm and what tool they ordered?

Thanks in advance!

[blackobxt]

That didn’t bend them. Line everything up and count teeth or do whatever you have to do to ensure it’s lined up right and carry on.

[KZJonny]

^^^ This.

Relax. Make a coffee and calm your nerves, etc... I did the same thing timing my OBW and GT. Freaked out a bit initially, then did a little digging and realized while it is possible to bend valves doing a timing job, it's incredibly unlikely. Mainly due to piston location in timed position.

 

The Company 23 tools are generally very well regarded for this. They're also spendy, but I suppose you get what you pay for, and if you're already doing the job yourself you should easily be ahead by a lot more than the cost of the holder.... Or chop up an old 10mm allan key, and a peice of flat steel mark off location and get the keys welded to the bar stock? Super cheap, but a bunch less convenient, I suppose.

[subisubisu]

For what it's worth, I just went through this myself.  Got the Company 23 tool, and it didn't fit the cam bolt heads - tool was Allen, and bolts seemed to be T55 Torx, or at least that fit it great.  I got the belt on with a helper holding the intake cam in place with another Company 23 tool, but I caused a slip when rotating the crankshaft to confirm the cams came back around to line up.  Took the belt off, lined everything back up again, replaced the belt AND installed the corner guides and bump guard, and everything turns as it should now.  I'm still a long way from startup, but there was NO sound of any collision from the heads when I experienced the slip.  If you weren't rotating the crank, the pistons would not be in a position to interfere with the valves, I believe, and anyway the forces involved would be nothing like a firing, rotating engine.  Just do the install procedure again and go confidently on.

[Chulew]

Thanks all, I'm feeling much better already! 

[blackobxt]

I’ve never used cam locking tools on any timing belt I’ve done. Closest thing I’ve used is actually on our cars and I’ll go get those cheap plastic clamps from harbor freight and clip them on drivers side sprocket to help hold the belt to the sprocket

[subisubisu]

6 minutes ago, blackobxt said:

I’ve never used cam locking tools on any timing belt I’ve done. Closest thing I’ve used is actually on our cars and I’ll go get those cheap plastic clamps from harbor freight and clip them on drivers side sprocket to help hold the belt to the sprocket

My second time the helper wasn't available and I held the LH intake cam in place with a ratchet wrench and the T55 socket until I had the belt on.  The LH exhaust wasn't as prone to slip, and of course the RH side cams aren't loaded at all.

[Chulew]

When I did the belt on this car years ago when I got it, I think I used a vice grip with some padding but I can't recall the details and I know that puts stress on the sprockets.  This time, with 4 hands, I did the crank and driver side first and then clamped the belt guide (MT) down on the belt at the crank with as much force as I could to hold it (don't forget to correct this gap later). 

[KZJonny]

Nothing to see here folks.

[blackobxt]

10 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

Nothing to see here folks.

Lol similar to this with much smaller clips

[kzr750r1]

Haven't used a cam lock either. Using the TiC FU bolts and if this car lasts long enough to do this job again will probably buy the Company23 cam lock tool for the TiC bolts.

Last time I did seem to skip a tooth so just pulled the tensioner and did it again... Slowly.

Drivers side exhaust usually would stay in place. Intake not so much and was the final rotation into place before pulling the pin again.