Oxygen sensor question..

[RumblyXT]

So my Oxygen sensor got damaged when I tried to removing it (the one located on the exhaust manifold before the turbo up pipe).

The one installed on the car now is a 4 wire sensor..

And the one I purchased: 22641AA32A, which I selected from Subaru parts online on the same location it shows as a 2 wire sensor??

https://parts.subaruofnorthmiami.com/a/Subaru_2005_Outback-25L-TURBO-5AT-XT/_54102_6024364/EXHAUST-FRONT-JOINT-PIPE-05MY-06MY/B13-440-06.html

Did I purchase the correct one?

Edited April 1, 2023 by RumblyXT
Pics

[Infosecdad]

What makes you think it's a two wire?  That's the correct sensor.

[RumblyXT]

The pic is kind of blurry by the wires onto the sensor, look like just 2 wires. The one installed on the car now doesn’t have the big washer. Could be mine with time got rusted and destroyed..

Appreciate the clarification

If you say it is, I’ll take your word for it.

Ty

Edited April 1, 2023 by RumblyXT

[Infosecdad]

If you zoom in on the picture, you can see the white wires as well, they just are practically invisible against the white background.

You should be good to go there.

[RumblyXT]

Glad I ordered the correct one.

Since these engines are affected by vacuum, overheating and oil starvation issues, even though I plan on staying stock, I’m thinking of getting a couple of mods to keep it healthy:

A basic AOS, the so called Cylinder 4 cooling mod, and a different method for supplying oil to the turbo, probably an IAG oil line kit.

I’m also thinking the Mazda Tokyo Roku (longer oil filter can help) and of course more frequent oil changes, especially now that I removed all the banjo screen filters.

 

 

 

Edited April 1, 2023 by RumblyXT

[RumblyXT]

Since the motor is out, might as well upgrade the factory oil pickup tube, make that motor bullet proof to possible oil issues.. was thinking a Moroso or Killer B. Only thing is that 20x motor is a 2.0L and the oil pan has a different shape, not sure if the regular 2.5L oil tube will fit ok in it..

I’ll have to replace the 255 Right exhaust gear. Found 3 cracks inside upon closer inspection.

Edited April 3, 2023 by RumblyXT

[m sprank]

Cant answer the pick up question. Dont know. But I have a feeling they do not cross over. 

AOS is a joke. Save your money. Interweb bro science blown WAY out of proportion. Some designs cause more damage than anything. 

Timing compensation is all cylinder 4 needs. Let me explain as simple as possible once again as the forum upgrade deleted my posts.  Cylinder 4 is closest to the knock sensor. Subaru decided that cylinder 4 should hear knock first being closest.  So they adjusted timing via tune to make cylinder 4 the "sacrifical lamb".  The cylinder runs a slightly bit warmer with oem manifilds due to the exhaust gas flow and scavaging (along with advanced oem tune timing). Combined equals mistake by Subaru. Tune it out. Good headers help with the temp too.

Don't need to upgrade turbo oil feed line. Dont make me say it again.  Thousands of kits sold because a specific turbo manufacturrer created an interweb scare and demanded an upgrade to provide warranty.  

Edited April 3, 2023 by m sprank

[RumblyXT]

Really? Hmm, ok. I honestly thought the AOS was important in that would pick up the PCV blow by oil and return it to the engine..

Ok. Well that’s money saved right there, those units don’t come cheap. Thank you Sir.

How do you feel about the Cylinder 4 cooling mod? I read somewhere it doesn’t really “cool” piston 4, but instead distributes the heat better throughout the motor.

Thank you for your input, I appreciate it.

[silverton]

19 minutes ago, RumblyXT said:

Really? Hmm, ok. I honestly thought the AOS was important in that would pick up the PCV blow by oil and return it to the engine..

Ok. Well that’s money saved right there, those units don’t come cheap. Thank you Sir.

How do you feel about the Cylinder 4 cooling mod? I read somewhere it doesn’t really “cool” piston 4, but instead distributes the heat better throughout the motor.

Thank you for your input, I appreciate it.

While an AOS can help with blow by, if you have a healthy motor and dont track it regularly, they aren't necessary. They add a shit ton of complication and basically zero benefit to a street car.

You're right about the cylinder 4 'cooling mod', as it just helps keep things regulated better. I can't confirm the science on this one, but it's easy enough to do and relatively cheap as far as 'mods' go for the car.

[m sprank]

I built a handful of cars that benefited from an AOS.  All but one was a dedicated track car.  The one that wasn't should have been, owner was absolutely insane and had plenty of money to play with. 

Never performed a "cylinder 4 cooling mod".  I call BS. Scavenge the exhaust gasses equally.  The Subaru rumble is the sound of inefficiency and those pulses add to the retained heat.  Turbo design also affects exhaust gas temp, (small hotsides equal faster spool, but more retained heat) so....  There are better ways to deal with generated heat imho.  Maybe Silverton is on to something and I am lost in the woods.

 

[RumblyXT]

Well.. my plans were to keep the car stock, but it came with this massive 3” DP, a Grimmspeed Boost Controller and a CAI. Not really sure if those mods will affect the reliability of the 20x long block I’m swapping in.

Really wish I could put it all stock, but at this point all I just want to get it running again and make sure this thing doesn’t end up with oil starvation again.

The more I think about it, the more I want to stay away from forced induction. A regular 3.5 L V6 N/A will do in the future.

Edited April 3, 2023 by RumblyXT

[KZJonny]

4 hours ago, RumblyXT said:

The more I think about it, the more I want to stay away from forced induction. A regular 3.5 L V6 N/A will do in the future.

Shame on you! Take it back! 

 

I feel ya tho man. I had all kinds of crazy ideas for one of my other cars, including a small blow-through carberetted turbo engine, or an engine swap with a modern turbo and fuel injection, etc.... Cancelled all of that to keep the boring 2.0L NA engine it came with... Not every project needs to be a high horsepower thing.

 

As far as the cylinder 4 cooling mod goes, I tend to think it's worth the spend. The information Dom posted about it is at least collected in a scientific and repeatable fashion, and presented for what it is. It doesn't make cylinder 4 cold, just helps to eliminated the discrepancy between the four combustion chambers. I also think that fact this particular cooling route was stock on some JDM motors, right from Ma Subaru at least points in the direction that some engineers somewhere thought i was a good idea. (In Japan, that is). It's also like $1k less money than a EL header, which also helps with cylinder head temps, but especially if your keeping the twinscroll, I don't think an aftermarket EL header is gonna be cheap. (Unless the 20x is already EL?)

All the rest has already been spoken to. I was told specifically by JMP (John) to use the stock oiling pipes for his custom, uprated turbo... He says they are the best thing available as long as they are in good condition. I didn't ask twice, and the turbo is running just fine. (no banjos, oil/filer change every 5K kms.)

[RumblyXT]

The ej20x motor indeed brings an EL header, (seems that way to me anyways) same length paired manifolds all the way to the turbo.

The posterior of the Left Head already has a connector, not sure if in Japan they use it as a cooling mod though.

You guys always mention JMP. If he says to keep the stock oil pipe, good enough for me, less expenses/complications. The oil lines installed on the 20x now look practically brand new. Not sure if I should prime the line first though.. I saw a video about it once where this guy was just cranking the motor till he saw oil coming out the connecting point to the turbo, will search for it once I'm at that stage..

btw.. Is the Grimspeed boost controller considered an aftermarket part which requires the engine to get a tune? How beneficial is it really? Otherwise, I can remove the one that was installed on the 255 I/M also. As I stated, I want to keep the motor a stock as possible..

 

 

Edited April 4, 2023 by RumblyXT

[m sprank]

Tuner will like the 3 port, otherwise technically not needed. 

Crank engine with no fuel/spark until oil light goes off.  Turbo and engine now primed. Dont crank all at once, crank/stop/crank/stop.  Dont kill your battery, lol. 15-30 sec on 10 off type thing. 

[RumblyXT]

45 minutes ago, m sprank said:

Tuner will like the 3 port, otherwise technically not needed. 

Crank engine with no fuel/spark until oil light goes off.  Turbo and engine now primed. Dont crank all at once, crank/stop/crank/stop.  Dont kill your battery, lol. 15-30 sec on 10 off type thing. 

3 port?

No fuel/spark as in removing fuel pump fuse or flooring the gas pedal method? Thanks for the info on priming the motor/turbo.

[RumblyXT]

These two arrived today. Found them used from an ‘05 Legacy GT a/t, seem to be in pretty good condition and seller told me they had only 60K miles on them lol.. sure

I checked part numbers and should fit my Outback XT.

I was planning on overhauling them with the leftovers Beck & Arnley boot kits I had from my ‘01 SF Forester, but the boots are smaller than the Outback/Legacy’s..

Finally real Japanese axles. Keeping fingers crossed they’re good inside too. We’ll see..

Edited April 4, 2023 by RumblyXT

[silverton]

if your car can crank no start with the WOT switch, that's a fine method.

Hopefully they aren't clicky axles! personally not a fan of used parts, but i understand the allure of the factory CV's.

[BoozeRS05]

Grimmspeed and the other aftermarket ebcs are 3 port, compared to the oem boost controller that’s a 2 port. Gives the tuner much better boost control, and also why a tune is required.

[RumblyXT]

18 hours ago, KZJonny said:

Cancelled all of that to keep the boring 2.0L NA engine it came with... Not every project needs to be a high horsepower thing.

That’s why I love my 3rd gen 4Runner. 3.4L V6, non-interference motor, best engine Toyota ever made. It’s not a lot of fun to drive, but takes me everywhere and never leaves me stranded. Super easy to work on and doesn’t have 259 vacuum hoses unlike Subaru.. The only thing I wish it was all 4WD, but it gets the job done.

I like the name that one member gave to his car at the 4Runner forum: Lieutenant Dan

Edited April 4, 2023 by RumblyXT

[RumblyXT]

1 hour ago, silverton said:

Hopefully they aren't clicky axles! personally not a fan of used parts, but i understand the allure of the factory CV's.

I hear you.. the clamps are original too, the boots have hairline cracks from normal wear but are not torn. Hopefully they’re good inside.

[KZJonny]

Grimmspeed 3 port boost controller can also be configured to run as a 2 port. The instructions are available on the GS website. If you're already getting a tune, you might as well use the 3-port config. If not, then the GS unit is still probably an upgrade over the original one with xxxxmiles on it.

13 hours ago, RumblyXT said:

You guys always mention JMP.

Yeah. His turbos are awesome, and he rebuilds broken ones to better than new. He also just happens to be an incredibly nice guy who gives a sh** about his clients and the community here. Nothing but brotherly love for him around here.

Edited April 4, 2023 by KZJonny

[RumblyXT]

This car is soo Miami lol

 

Don’t even like rap, but this song is contagious 

Edited April 4, 2023 by RumblyXT

[m sprank]

You can pull the fuse pump fuse and disconnect the coil pack connectors.  With the engine swap there should be no fuel in the lines unless you primed the pump.  Dont prime the pump, lol. 

[RumblyXT]

Any tips fir removing the outer bearing race? I’m all ears..

[m sprank]

Is it stuck?

Subaru-Drive-Axle-Service-Drive.pdf