Power steering bleeding process

[Kilzon]

I’m about to DIY replace my power steering pump since it’s leaking. I know that once I replace it I’ll have to bleed the system from the air in it. Could you give me any tips how I should do the bleeding process? 

[m sprank]

Start the car.  While sitting stationary at idle turn the wheel left to right slowly.  Full lock to full lock.  Will need to add fluid as air dissipates.  As steering becomes smooth, the air is leaving. 

Can be done on ground, but it wears your tires. 

[Kilzon]

Are you sure it’s safe to start the car ? Won’t it damage the pump ? Since there will be some air inside. 

[silverton]

https://strongforsubaru.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/How_to_bleed_Subaru_Power_Steering_systems.pdf

[m sprank]

I assumed the wheel would be turned a few times wirh the engine off.  Never bled a system completely without the pump running. Never had an issue with premature failure of a pump.  Changed hundreds, if not thousands of pump o-rings but few complete pump failures in comparison. Don't recall a single warranty on a pump.  Did always have an assistant at the res to add fluid and check for foam.   A few shudders as air passed and thats it.  

[Kilzon]

Here is a problem, I can’t turn my steering wheel if my cars isn’t on. And I don’t understand what’s wrong. I turn the key to the first position, nothing changes, I still can’t turn the wheel, I turn the ignition on and it’s still not moving. Is it common thing for this generation ? Because I saw videos on YouTube who were working on pervious generations and they could turn the steering wheel while car is off. 

[m sprank]

Is the wheel locked?  With no power assist and the car on the ground the wheel will give more resistance to turn.  But if it is seized, is the rack air bound?  Did you replace the  o-ring, pump, rack, lines?

[Kilzon]

I haven’t replaced anything yet. And I don’t think that wheel is locked, since when engine is on, i can turn it with no problem. 

[m sprank]

If you turn the key to the "on" position so that the gauges sweep the wheel should be unlocked at that point.  You can feel when the wheel locks and unlocks.  Otherwise the you should be able to turn the wheel although it may take hand over hand and a good amount of resistance.  Ever drive a car with no power assisted steering?  Just rack and pinion?  You get Popeye forearms from driving at low speed. 

[Kilzon]

When I turn the key to the “on” position nothing changes, wheel doesn’t move anywhere. Idk what the problem is 

[KZJonny]

This is more of a home alignment thing, but it's worth a shot if you have the materials...

Per side, use a couple of old floor tiles / thin peices of plastic / ?thin cardboard if you have to?

Put a good smear of general purpose grease between the sheets/tiles, etc.... slide under tires with car lifted up a bit, or drive on to them. Whatever.

Just gives the wheels/tires something to rotate on without shredding the tires.

 

And this might be too obvious, but have you tried 'jiggling' the wheel a bit while turning to the ON position to unlock it? Mine will sometimes not want to unlock if I've moved it while it was off without messing with it a bit...

[Kilzon]

I did try that but It didn’t work out 

[m sprank]

Is the issue in the column? Something cause the lock to engage but not disengage? Cars not getting any younger. My left knee likes to lock and not bend for a few days. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Infosecdad]

If you put tension on the wheel, do you feel the lock release when you turn the key to different stages?

[Zac88]

before the initial startup, I kept the PS belt off and turned the pump by hand a for a few minutes to get air out.

[Kilzon]

No, I don’t feel that, it stays blocked not matter what. I can move the wheel only when engine is on. 

[Kilzon]

1 hour ago, Zac88 said:

before the initial startup, I kept the PS belt off and turned the pump by hand a for a few minutes to get air out.

Did it help  ? 

[Kilzon]

On 3/12/2023 at 3:24 PM, m sprank said:

Start the car.  While sitting stationary at idle turn the wheel left to right slowly.  Full lock to full lock.  Will need to add fluid as air dissipates.  As steering becomes smooth, the air is leaving. 

Can be done on ground, but it wears your tires. 

 

On 3/12/2023 at 11:14 PM, m sprank said:

I assumed the wheel would be turned a few times wirh the engine off.  Never bled a system completely without the pump running. Never had an issue with premature failure of a pump.  Changed hundreds, if not thousands of pump o-rings but few complete pump failures in comparison. Don't recall a single warranty on a pump.  Did always have an assistant at the res to add fluid and check for foam.   A few shudders as air passed and thats it.  

 

On 3/13/2023 at 8:18 AM, m sprank said:

Is the wheel locked?  With no power assist and the car on the ground the wheel will give more resistance to turn.  But if it is seized, is the rack air bound?  Did you replace the  o-ring, pump, rack, lines?

 

On 3/13/2023 at 9:52 AM, m sprank said:

If you turn the key to the "on" position so that the gauges sweep the wheel should be unlocked at that point.  You can feel when the wheel locks and unlocks.  Otherwise the you should be able to turn the wheel although it may take hand over hand and a good amount of resistance.  Ever drive a car with no power assisted steering?  Just rack and pinion?  You get Popeye forearms from driving at low speed. 

 

21 hours ago, KZJonny said:

This is more of a home alignment thing, but it's worth a shot if you have the materials...

Per side, use a couple of old floor tiles / thin peices of plastic / ?thin cardboard if you have to?

Put a good smear of general purpose grease between the sheets/tiles, etc.... slide under tires with car lifted up a bit, or drive on to them. Whatever.

Just gives the wheels/tires something to rotate on without shredding the tires.

 

And this might be too obvious, but have you tried 'jiggling' the wheel a bit while turning to the ON position to unlock it? Mine will sometimes not want to unlock if I've moved it while it was off without messing with it a bit...

 

12 hours ago, Infosecdad said:

If you put tension on the wheel, do you feel the lock release when you turn the key to different stages?

 

13 hours ago, m sprank said:

Is the issue in the column? Something cause the lock to engage but not disengage? Cars not getting any younger. My left knee likes to lock and not bend for a few days. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Possibly, but if the problem in the column I don’t know how to check it 

[KZJonny]

If you can turn the wheel with the car on, then just bleed out the pump.... If you turned it by hand that much, it should at least have fluid it, so it would be primed a little. The resevoir is above it as well, so top it *right* up and gravity will help you out.

It sounds like the wheel locking is a seperate problem. Get the PS pump working, and drive the car around a little. As mentioned above, it mike groan and shudder a little at first but I imagine you'll be fine. I did my rack + lines last summer, and it primed right up. By the time I turned the wheel lock to lock a couple of times, it was all good. Topped off the resevoir and haven't had to touch it since.

[Kilzon]

Thank you for the advice. You said to top it “right”. What did you mean ? 

[KZJonny]

Fill the reservoir up to nearly the very top. Leave a little bit of room, since you might get an air bubble or two.

Or put some rags/paper towels around it to catch what might spill over.

Go lock to lock a few times, cap it up, and go for a drive.

If everything checks out, and the PS system feels fine, let it all cool down, and remove any extra fluid.