relative4 Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 I need to lift my engine a few inches to replace the oil pan gasket. Is there a lifting eye under the intercooler so I can use a support bar across the strut towers, or do I need to use a hoist on the alternator bracket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaru-tech Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 I usually use a jack.and block of wood under the front diff. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 there should be a lifting eye under the intercooler, and then the AC bracket is the other lift point. or... you can use the top two bell housing bolts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted February 11, 2023 Author Share Posted February 11, 2023 (edited) Excellent, thanks. Making sure I know what needs to be disconnected before lifting: Intercooler, dogbone, engine mounts, intake hose Downpipe - just the support bracket, or that and disconnect from the catback, or remove entirely? Transmission mount? What else? Thanks! Edited February 11, 2023 by relative4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 (edited) That should do it. I did 2 last summer, and don’t recall even doing the DP bracket, just the pitch stop. No gasket to replace either, just rtv on the pan right on to the block. You can buy gaskets that will fit, but there isn’t one in there to start anyway. Not a lot of room no matter how you do it. I also used a jack on trans to raise everything, then put some hardwood spacers between the subframe and engine mounts to give me ~1.5” free space to get everything out and back in. Tight but totally doable. Edited February 11, 2023 by KZJonny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 the motor mounts, pitch stop, and intake. ideal to unbolt the radiator so it doesn't stress the hoses, or just remove it entirely Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackobxt Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 Under car: 2x 14mm nuts for motor mounts 2x 14 (if I remember correctly) for bottom bell housing nuts Top of car: remove radiator with hoses and fans. 2x 10mm bolts on radiator bracket, single fan plug and two hose clamps. remove air box: unplug maf, loosen hose clamp and pull lid and hose as assembly Disconnect power steering pump (not hoses) and lay it to the left side of engine bay remove alternator disconnect a/c compressor (not hoses) lay to right side of the engine bay. remove intercooler and disconnect pitch mount from motor and angle it up and out of the way. disconnect downpipe from turbo several 14mm bolts and nuts remove remaining starter and bell housing bolts 14mm remove 2 heater core hoses and vac line to brake booster disconnect 2 fuel lines and vacuum line to regulator disconnect engine harness plug start to lift motor by mounting points and get a Jack under the front of the trans and lift enough to clear motor mount studs and remove engine if you have an auto, you remove the torque converter bolts from an access port on the top of the motor on the turbo side. I may have missed one or two small steps but it’s not a hard process Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackobxt Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 9 hours ago, relative4 said: Excellent, thanks. Making sure I know what needs to be disconnected before lifting: Intercooler, dogbone, engine mounts, intake hose Downpipe - just the support bracket, or that and disconnect from the catback, or remove entirely? Transmission mount? What else? Thanks! Do not remove the trans mount. Trans will stay in place supported by jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted February 11, 2023 Author Share Posted February 11, 2023 Thanks gang. What type of RTV do you like for this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackobxt Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 Ooooffff sorry. Forgive me for posting so early in the morning, I completely forgot that you were just wanting to pull the oil pan and went off the deep end on engine removal lol. Out of curiosity…. Have you 100% verified that it’s the oil pan that’s leaking? I’m not saying it’s never the oil pan but it is pretty rare. The power steering pump can leak and run down behind the timing cover and coat the oil pan giving the illusion that it’s leaking. Seen a fellow mechanic misdiagnose this before Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 (edited) Wow. Just wow. This is like the blind leading the blind. You DO NOT HAVE TO HOIST THE ENGINE. You can simply use a block of wood on the head and jack up the engine enough to do the work. No hoses disconnected, etc. If you are very careful, you do not even need to remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust manifold, you can disconnect the wire and leave the sensor. This is a simple job that some are making FAR more complex than it needs to be. You will need to remove the manifolds. so have new gaskets for that. Rather than write a step by step off the top of my head, I simply did a quick google search and... https://subaruidiots.com/oil-pan-removal-and-install-on-subaru-stiwrx/ These instructions say WRX/STi, but its all the same. Edited February 11, 2023 by m sprank 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 6 hours ago, relative4 said: Thanks gang. What type of RTV do you like for this? I used permatex ultra grey, because I had it, and the packaging said it was suitable for the purpose. I think ultra black may also be fine, but I don’t have one in front of me. If you need to get some from the store, they describe what they can tolerate on the package pretty well. When in doubt, I use Yamabond or Threebond on everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 Oem is Subiebond. Much like Yamabond, lol. Thinking about it, if you went full ghetto, you could probably drop the pan by lifting the engine via the exhaust manifold crosspipe and a block of wood. Remove the engine mount nuts and thats it. Kick it, pry bar it, kung fu it back into its home if the damn mount studs dont line up just right coming down. ROFL. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackobxt Posted February 12, 2023 Share Posted February 12, 2023 8 hours ago, m sprank said: Wow. Just wow. This is like the blind leading the blind. You DO NOT HAVE TO HOIST THE ENGINE. You can simply use a block of wood on the head and jack up the engine enough to do the work. No hoses disconnected, etc. If you are very careful, you do not even need to remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust manifold, you can disconnect the wire and leave the sensor. This is a simple job that some are making FAR more complex than it needs to be. You will need to remove the manifolds. so have new gaskets for that. Rather than write a step by step off the top of my head, I simply did a quick google search and... https://subaruidiots.com/oil-pan-removal-and-install-on-subaru-stiwrx/ These instructions say WRX/STi, but its all the same. Yeah that was my bad, I was skimming the post in between working and somehow my train of thought went from oil pan to transmission mounts to thinking this guy was asking for advice on pulling the motor. Apparently I need to start drinking coffee. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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