My ‘05 OBXT journal

[KZJonny]

Fwiw, I don’t know what is different between Subaru branded Threebond and the other stuff you can buy from any motorcycle shop, but the $60 charged by Subaru is ridiculous, if that’s what they’re asking…

Regular Threebond is like $25 CAD a tube, and I really doubt it’s a different formula.

Already been discussed, but I figured I would throw it out there. It is still a reasonable option.

Edited March 24, 2023 by KZJonny

[RumblyXT]

Thanks. Yeah, I'll stick with Honda bond, worked great for me in the past.

[Tehnation]

I always keep two types of anti seize on deck, the 8 oz bottles are enough to last you for a long time. I use the copper when its near hot stuff like the exhaust system, and the regular for things like suspension and stuff that doesn't see much heat. 

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-09128-Copper-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B000HBM8HU

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80078-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Bottle/dp/B000FW7VGE

 

[Tehnation]

For sealant I recommend Permatex Ultra Grey/Black. Cheap and gets the job done, have never heard anyone complain about it. Ultra Grey is for high torque situations, and Ultra Black is for high oil situations. But they both work well doing either. 

[KZJonny]

I agree about the anti seize stuff, and anything is better than nothing, but I never recommend the copper anti-seize to people, personally.

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Anti-Seize-Lubricating-Compound-Lubricant/dp/B07R5491FK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=1U0QHGMRVFQWR&keywords=nickel+anti+seize&qid=1679745909&sprefix=nickel+anti%2Caps%2C114&sr=8-5

For the few extra dollars, a nickel based anti-seize is a lot better, especially if you only keep one tin around. Much higher hear tolerance, and unlike copper anti-seize it does’t react with aluminium and some other exotic metals.

I use copper on chassis parts because it’s cheaper and it does the job. It’s also mainly steel on steel connections. Anywhere there is a steel part attached to an aluminium control arm for example, I’d use nickel base….

might not really be a big thing in Florida at all, but with the number of steel bolts going through aluminium parts on these cars, I feel a little better knowing there will be less galvanic reaction happening over time to cause fasteners to seize up and strip out.

[kzr750r1]

My go to sealant at for cases, oil pan, head covers is Three bond 1211. Went there as I found it was the only one that is fuel resistant in addition to oil. Sensor safe yada yada.

Well see how well it works long term.

Looking back on a thread rebuilding the ZRX noticed I used some fugi bond on the case halfs. But probably ditched this tube right after as it's not in the tool box any more. If a tube isn't used in a timely manner it's ditched around here.

Same for a roll of tape. Heat cycles kill it out here. After a few it's time to get a new batch.

[RumblyXT]

Appreciate all the input on the sealants..

About freaking time.. the 255 is out. Motor got hung up with lower left bolt, had to work around it to disengage it from the trans bell housing. A real pita but we got it!

Edited March 26, 2023 by RumblyXT

[RumblyXT]

“Tomorrow.. we begin the Kumite”..

Haha not sure if any of you guys remember that movie quote.. one of my favorite movies from the 90s.. Good Lord.. I can’t believe it’s been close to 30 years..

- BLOODSPORT

off topic: I’m a big time martial arts movie fan. Enter the Dragon, Game of Death, pretty much all the Van Dame films, and yes: Steven Seagal lol

Got a few Criterion Collection laying around like: ‘Seven Samurai’ (the original in black and white!), Sanjuro, Yohimbo.. etc 

Toshiro Mifune was my favorite samurai actor of the 60s..

Edited March 26, 2023 by RumblyXT

[kzr750r1]

And the torque converter is in the transmission! Yes those lower studs get bound up and the fun is trying to find that sweet spot with the trans angle.

Nice to have two motor stands. That will make swapping parts a breese.

Hope your not going to reuse that belt pully. It looks a bit ragged.

Good job!

[RumblyXT]

5 hours ago, kzr750r1 said:

And the torque converter is in the transmission! Yes those lower studs get bound up and the fun is trying to find that sweet spot with the trans angle.

Nice to have two motor stands. That will make swapping parts a breese.

Hope your not going to reuse that belt pully. It looks a bit ragged.

Good job!

I was lucky the TC stayed on, I was concerned the engine was going to remove it given the amount of times I had to shake it disengage. 
I wasn’t going to get the other stand, but given the amount of work I have to do, swapping parts, turning the motors around back and forward on and off, it seemed like the right thing to do. Plus I got a great deal only $50 so it was a no brainer.

My only previous experience on these motors was a 251 (older and simpler), but I noticed this 255 brings a plate attached to the bottom by two bolts, maybe a dust cover, and it was no where on the diagrams. It too was getting dragged/hung up on the torque converter. It started coming lose when I raised the motor some.
Yes, I may need to replace the belt pulley, this engine had 215K miles!

Edited March 26, 2023 by RumblyXT

[kzr750r1]

Good times! First time we missed taking the pitch stop out. Yanked the TQ converter and botched the seal/clip that holds the pump sleeve. Luckily there was not harm or foul. Replaced both parts and reinserted the converter.

Second time I didn't even disconnect the front axels and did it all solo. But I did smooge some anti seize on the nipple for good measure.

Had a scissor jack under the trans for angle adjustment. Getting better at it each time.

 

[Infosecdad]

You looked up the process to reinsert the converter right?  The steps that we need to take beyond just sliding it on.

[RumblyXT]

5 hours ago, kzr750r1 said:

Good times! First time we missed taking the pitch stop out. Yanked the TQ converter and botched the seal/clip that holds the pump sleeve. Luckily there was not harm or foul. Replaced both parts and reinserted the converter.

Second time I didn't even disconnect the front axels and did it all solo. But I did smooge some anti seize on the nipple for good measure.

Had a scissor jack under the trans for angle adjustment. Getting better at it each time.

 

Yeah good times! Ha I didn't disconnect the axles, but swear I was just about to on the left side, that bottom nut was hell. Very difficult to remove solo.

Best way I've found is one person holding it with a wrench from under the car while another hits the wrench with a pipe from above it, and little by little loosen it, very tight space in there.

Will definitely be greasing the nipple and cleaning the bell housing holes and bolt threads to make installation better.

I might be mistaken, but I also think the TC lip was also getting hung up on the groove of this bottom plate.. hence the trans needs to be lifted a bit more and the engine shaken not only side to side, but up and down too till it's disengaged.

Edited March 27, 2023 by RumblyXT

[kzr750r1]

Yeah that bottom cover almost didn't go back on last round for me. I forgot to put it back on before installing the motor. So I lifted it again after putting the bolts and nuts on the studs. Probably for the best as it's the usual, 10lb of S#!% in a 5lb bag. I have a good assortment of 3/8 wobbly drivers and a loooooog extension.

In the end we win and that's the main thing.

[RumblyXT]

Finally the cartridge came lose from the turbine housing, tried for days with penetrant and a dead blow hammer but wouldn’t budge.

Had to resort to the torch and a stronger hammer for it to come loose. Then two of the bolts from the cartridge, stripped, and my father in law made a gap on the bolt’s head with a Dremel for the screwdriver to grab on.

Open closer inspection, it looks like I will be replacing the turbine, since the crack goes pretty deep into the housing.

A small Dremel, like this cheap harbor freight one, and a small torch can be really helpful. Should be on everyone’s list of tools.

 

 

Edited March 28, 2023 by RumblyXT

[xt2005bonbon]

Do you remember the first time you posted about your 'dead' car and were kind like "I am getting rid of it". Look what you are doing now

 

Do you have a close up picture of how far the crack spread?

[RumblyXT]

7 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

Do you remember the first time you posted about your 'dead' car and were kind like "I am getting rid of it". Look what you are doing now

 

Do you have a close up picture of how far the crack spread?

Haha yes I do..

I was not going to let her go for just $500 to the junk yard.

I was only able to determine the stent of the crack once I removed the CHRA. Really wish I could salvage the housing by welding it. But it’s made of cast iron no? Wouldn’t it need a special type of welding?

Will post a pic once I get one.

[RumblyXT]

I’m trying to get the most work done as fast as I can. Inflation is about to take a bad turn for the worst. Will need to hurry and get all those Japanese Subaru parts soon..

Not sure if you guys keep up with the news but the petro dollar is about to be dumped. Russia and China, along with Brazil, Iran, Saudi Arabia and South Africa signed an agreement last Friday to deal in BRICS. China’s own Yuan currency. Their new monetary system backed up by Gold.

No one will be dealing in dollars except for a few countries. If you think we have inflation now, wait a few months, things might get 3-4x more expensive than they are now..

We have taken a lot of things for granted. I was born and raised in a communist country, ask me how I know..

Edited March 28, 2023 by RumblyXT

[xt2005bonbon]

[RumblyXT]

I don't mean to turn this thread into a political discussion, but it infuriates me seeing how this great nation has gotten since I got here in the mid 90s till now..

For the sake of our children, I really hope things can turn for the better in a couple of years.. 

[RumblyXT]

1 hour ago, xt2005bonbon said:

Do you have a close up picture of how far the crack spread?

I’ll provide a better one of the inside later.

[RumblyXT]

Thinking of giving this a try.. Cheap, efficient ultrasonic small parts cleaner.

 

Edited March 29, 2023 by RumblyXT

[RumblyXT]

Trying out Vinegar 5% acidity + Lemon Juice to remove rust.

Ideally, I’d sandblast the parts but I don’t have one near me and they charge way too much for the little I need now.. Leaving parts soaked in for 24hrs.. we’ll see.

The turbine housing is just a test as I already ordered a new one.

Edited March 29, 2023 by RumblyXT

[RumblyXT]

Turbo parts look awesome, quite clean, not even 24 hrs and all the rust is gone $6! I didn’t dip the waste-gate to avoid liquid getting in it. But this solution really works! Not bad for only $6!

Started working on the 255, already stripped.. well it’s not really stripped but the nuts holding the T/B cover bolts are just turning in their place and 6 bolts won’t come lose..

If anyone has any ideas how to removed them without cutting them, please advise.

 

Edited March 30, 2023 by RumblyXT

[KZJonny]

Looks good dude.

Keep your eyes peeled for any product that contains a little phosphoric acid. I know vinegar is cheap, but the nice thing about (dilute!!) phosphoric acid is that is reacts more quickly with rust, then slows as it touches good iron.

It also forms a layer of iron phosphate on the outside of the object being soaked, when you pull it out and give it an air dry, or blow it off with compressed air, whatever. Iron phosphate is hard, and resists further corrosion reasonably well.

The acetic/Citric acids in vinegar, while strong and effective can lead to flash rust, which just means you have to start again if you can't paint or coat the things fast enough.

 

Just more info for the next big project!