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2.5 engine swap help


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We have a 2005 outback with a 2.5l. We bought it with a bad engine and subsequently ordered a used engine. The replacement engine is definitely a 2.5, and it's for a 2005 Subaru, but not sure which model it came out of. We had to swap the oil pump, oil pan splash shroud, and oil pan. The intake has to be swapped as well. My problem is that there are 2 different size vacuum ports on the top of the block, towards the rear passenger side of the engine. The new engine has a 1 inch pressed in (I assume) hose connector. The old engine had a smaller, possibly 3/8-1/2 inch threaded in hose connector. Is anyone aware of an adapter or a work around for this? Pictures are of the 2 different hose connectors.8701eb4d38e3cd12b4b0a3adeba36fba.jpg13d8898fe08411e800bd9ff64142bf79.jpg

 

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Can you find out which model and submodel the engine is from? The one in the picture shows thw crankcase pcv vent from a turbocharged engine.

 

A non-turbo engine has the female threads for the pcv to attach directly.

 

If you install an engine from a turbo car to a non-turbo car it will be very poor to drive.

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I think OP may have... fucked up. Do the NA engines have TGVs...?

 

To OP, I think you got an engine from a Legacy *GT* which comes with a turbo from the factory. Non-GT models do not have a turbo. You are gonna need another engine if the engine in the picture is the one from a turbo car, and I'm leaning towards it being new engine time.

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NA's do not have TGV's, and not sure why you're even thinking there are TGV's at play here, I reread the thread and all I got out of it was some possibly grammar issues. I think OP is saying the blocks have different sized ports on the top, not that the one has two ports on it. We need to see more of the 'new' block uncovered, the other block breather port would be visible if not for the cover.

 

If OP ordered a long block, it'd be pretty heckin obvious that the 'new' motor had twice as many cams as the one yarded out.

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I thought I saw TGV ports on the top of the block, hence I mentioned it. I agree that we need more pictures.

 

There are more differences than just the heads. If they ordered an EJ257/255 shortblock, then the compression ratio will be way off and it won't run right without the assumed compression it would gain with a turbo.

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@fiber_tek

Your 1st pic is of the older style PCV where the PCV is screwed into the intake manifold,

The 2nd pic is of a 2003ish+ style PCV where the PCV is screwed into the block.

 

The PCV vents can be pulled from the block but it's not necessarily easy, they are pressed in.

 

I have swapped these before. I was thinking of making a jig to pull them out but never did.

 

I am surprised you would have had to change oil pump, and pan. That's odd to me.

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@fiber_tek

Your 1st pic is of the older style PCV where the PCV is screwed into the intake manifold,

The 2nd pic is of a 2003ish+ style PCV where the PCV is screwed into the block.

 

The PCV vents can be pulled from the block but it's not necessarily easy, they are pressed in.

 

I have swapped these before. I was thinking of making a jig to pull them out but never did.

 

I am surprised you would have had to change oil pump, and pan. That's odd to me.

 

What is a good, safe way to get those vents pulled?

 

For the other people commenting about the new engine being a turbo, it was not a turbo engine. It came as a complete engine from the intake to the oil pan, no turbo on it. It had everything on it, including alternator, A/C compressor, power steering pump, etc. It was a complete NA engine. It has completely different intake, the wiring is different on the intake.

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@fiber_tek

Your 1st pic is of the older style PCV where the PCV is screwed into the intake manifold,

The 2nd pic is of a 2003ish+ style PCV where the PCV is screwed into the block.

 

The PCV vents can be pulled from the block but it's not necessarily easy, they are pressed in.

 

I have swapped these before. I was thinking of making a jig to pull them out but never did.

 

I am surprised you would have had to change oil pump, and pan. That's odd to me.

 

The second(right) pic is the 2005 engine, original to the car.

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the larger port is easily removed with the harbor freight slide hammer kit. the other one has two flat sides. use a wrench, either of proper size or adjustable, and start working it back and forth; you only get about 1/8-1/4 turn out of it, but it eventually walks itself up with your assistance.

 

installation is reverse of removal, minus the slide.

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I'd say at this point if everything else was addressed and you're confident the engine will run - just make an adapter out of hose and PCV valve that matches the rest of your setup.

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