RacerX69 Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 (edited) So I'm pulling the engine in my 05 2.5i goon. I want to leave the tranny in the car, have everything unfastened and removed that needs to be done. The tranny is hanging on a bridge from the strut towers and still connected to the rear mount. I have the engin loose, it wiggles up and down, and can measure about a 0.005" gap. I've soaked the entire mating surface with penetrating oil. The two studs at the lower attachment points appear to be free, I tried to remove them, but no room for a stud puller, and double nutting resulted in no joy. It appears that the two dowel pins about halfway up each side are where it is hanging up. When I speak the area with penetrating oil, then wiggle the engine up and down, it looks like some schmutz is working out, but I've been working on this since last Sunday. There is no place to pry the cases apart, so it has me stumped. Ideas anyone? Subaru Engine Removal by Racer, on Flickr Subaru Engine Removal by Racer, on Flickr Edited September 1, 2021 by RacerX69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 engine and tranny need to go up about an inch to clear the engine mount studs from the engine cradle. I jack the tranny up and put it on jack stands to give it the clearance for the engine to move forward. Engine can't move forward if the engine mount studs aren't clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacerX69 Posted September 1, 2021 Author Share Posted September 1, 2021 engine and tranny need to go up about an inch to clear the engine mount studs from the engine cradle. I jack the tranny up and put it on jack stands to give it the clearance for the engine to move forward. Engine can't move forward if the engine mount studs aren't clear. Thanks. As I mentioned, the front of the tranny is supported by a bridge that sits on the strut towers. Same as a jackstand, only better. I can raise or lower the car on the lift at will, and it won't fall off of the jackstand. I can wrestle the hell out of the engine and it won't fall off of the stand. I did fail to mention that I had the whole thing about 2 inches higher than it needs to be to clear the motor mount studs, sorry, eh? I just made some shims from soup cans and slipped them in above the dowel pins. Gonna try and wrestle it some more after another soak in penetrating oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 This is common, it can take a putty knife or chisel at times to get the two separated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 sometimes I just bear hug the motor and give it the beans and yank and shake the hell out of it. Usually does the job. Also, is the engine suspended by the cherry picker/engine hoist? If the tranny is raised and the engine isn't supported by anything only the tranny, it will put all the weight of that motor on the studs. Maybe raise the engine some more. Did you try using a pry bar or chisel and hammer to get in there? Ive pulled this motor so many times, i am anything but gentle when it comes to separating and connecting the engine to the tranny. Just give it some man strength! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacerX69 Posted September 1, 2021 Author Share Posted September 1, 2021 sometimes I just bear hug the motor and give it the beans and yank and shake the hell out of it. Usually does the job. Also, is the engine suspended by the cherry picker/engine hoist? If the tranny is raised and the engine isn't supported by anything only the tranny, it will put all the weight of that motor on the studs. Maybe raise the engine some more. Did you try using a pry bar or chisel and hammer to get in there? Ive pulled this motor so many times, i am anything but gentle when it comes to separating and connecting the engine to the tranny. Just give it some man strength! Yeah, all of that. I've alternated between the bear hug and rasslin' method, then pulling up on the engine with the lift, stood underneath with the engine hanging free and the tranny suspended in the sling on the bridge, and pried on the only place possible at this stage, the opening where the clutch inspection cover is. The gap I've managed to open is pretty small, and it came at a high price. I have an oak 2x4 that I've used in my shop for 30 years or more, to support stuff, form metal over, and at times to beat on things I don't want to break. I managed to beat the cases apart this tiny amount hitting the few places available, but that old oak friend has splintered to bits. Maybe I need another oak 2x4. I can't get anything thicker than about a five thou feeler gage at the moment, but when the gap is large enough I'll start trying prybars and other prying objects. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 you sure you got all the bolts and nuts out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacerX69 Posted September 1, 2021 Author Share Posted September 1, 2021 you sure you got all the bolts and nuts out? Oh yeah. The only thing holding this thing together is corrosion. Cut my oak 2x4 down past the split and got medieval on it. I'm winning. Winning . . . . by Racer, on Flickr Graduated from tin can shims to putty knives. Winning . . . . by Racer, on Flickr The right side is pretty much free. The left still has about 3/16" to go. Gonna let it soak and go fix lunch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 Yup, that's pretty much the process for better or worse... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 Make sure you put anti-seize compound on those pins for reassembly. Also put anti-seize on all bolt and nut threads. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacerX69 Posted September 1, 2021 Author Share Posted September 1, 2021 Make sure you put anti-seize compound on those pins for reassembly. Also put anti-seize on all bolt and nut threads. Some of the fasteners I have removed had red thread locker on them. They felt like the threads were pulling out with the bolt. Gonna be a lot of thread cleaning to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 I Just toss my nuts and bolts in Berryman 0996 Chem dip Carb Cleaner. Let em soak for a day or 2. https://www.berrymanproducts.com/products/eco-friendly-products/berryman-chem-dip-carburetor-and-parts-cleaner/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacerX69 Posted September 1, 2021 Author Share Posted September 1, 2021 I vanquished the Subaru Corrosion Dragon. Win! by Racer, on Flickr Win! by Racer, on Flickr The original flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate. Win! by Racer, on Flickr Win! by Racer, on Flickr 190,030 miles. Probably good for another couple hundred thousand miles, but I will grind the flywheel, and replace the disc, cover, throwout bearing and pilot bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Febreze Mee Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 This is phenomenal! I'll be replacing my clutch and resurfacing the fly wheel soon too. Were you thinking of picking up Exedy's OEM-quality replacement KSB04 kit? Or something else entirely? MILKRUN - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacerX69 Posted September 2, 2021 Author Share Posted September 2, 2021 This is phenomenal! I'll be replacing my clutch and resurfacing the fly wheel soon too. Were you thinking of picking up Exedy's OEM-quality replacement KSB04 kit? Or something else entirely? I didn't pull it apart to replace the clutch. The timing belt broke. This car is my daily driver, since I bought it new. At 100,000 miles I replaced the timing belt and spark plugs. The car was five years old. At around 110,000 one of the wheel bearings started getting noisy. I bought all four and replaced them. It has taken another 11 years to get to the second hundred thousand miles. I was gathering all the usual stuff, plugs, new accessory drive belts, coolant flush, and the timing kit. I overlooked one small detail. The belt interval is 105,000 miles, or 105 months. I was 27 months overdue. So I'll likely just get a clutch disc and pressure plate at Rock Auto, and grind the surface of the flywheel on my brake lathe. I should have the heads off in an hour or so, then I will know what needs repaired. I have a NeWay seat cutter, so if it isn't too bad I might be able to recut the seats and lap in some new valves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Febreze Mee Posted September 2, 2021 Share Posted September 2, 2021 I understood why you were doing the work from your other thread. I just like seeing engine-removal threads, progress on said engine (even maintenance), then engine-installation. It's just a bonus that I need to replace the clutch at the same time. MILKRUN - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 Would be silly not to get a whole clutch kit when rockauto sells the exedy ksb04 for $145 and the sachs KF73802 for $132, you'd spend more than that buying the pressure plate and friction disc separately. The throw out bearing is the weak point that typically wears out before the friction disc too. New pilot bearing is $10 from subaru too, or you can pick up a slightly lesser quality one at napa for $6. But then again, I'd strongly suggest just getting a whole clutch kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacerX69 Posted September 5, 2021 Author Share Posted September 5, 2021 (edited) Got the heads off stripped down and checked. I'm gonna try and get away with all new valves, clean up the seats and lap on the new valves. The heads and block deck are clean and flat, a 0.001" feeler gauge wouldn't slip under the straight edge anywhere. There are some marks where the head gasket rings work against the block deck and head, but I can't feel anything with my thumbnail, so I'll clean it all up, replace all the seals and gaskets and put it all back together. New coolant and fuel hoses, new thermostat, water pump, cam drive pulleys, etc and try for another 200,000 miles. Edited November 9, 2021 by RacerX69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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