Need help diagnosing steering wheel shake

[SubOperator]

I have experienced the steering wheel shake with 4 different set of wheels/tires - 2 winter sets and 2 summer sets. Last set is brand new Falcon Azenis RT660 balanced twice by a new independent enthusiast friendly shop.

 

 

EDIT: For the hack of it, I'll put the Falcons on my son's 05 OB with 250K miles on it on the weekend and see what happens. The OB rides fine.

Edited September 10, 2021 by SubOperator

[shralp]

Similar issue here in my 08 XT. Have pretty much replaced everything up front over the last few years and the problem is still there intermittently like always. It’s much better than it was but still there from time to time. Haven’t changed anything with the steering tho, maybe that’s next?

[SubOperator]

Similar issue here in my 08 XT. Have pretty much replaced everything up front over the last few years and the problem is still there intermittently like always. It’s much better than it was but still there from time to time. Haven’t changed anything with the steering tho, maybe that’s next?

 

 

Max even replaced the whole steering rack and the problem was still present.

[SubOperator]

Son's 05 OB had the somewhat similar issue when the non-Subaru shop replaced ball joints. Hard shake at slow speeds even. It ended up being rust under front rotors that got moved a little when tech was getting to the ball joints. Rust between rotors and wheel bearing caused the rotors to sit unevenly and cause the shake. But some things were different from what my car does - the OB then had the shake at even slow speeds, you couldn't get to 40 let alone 60+. Changing wheels of course was not helping, just changing the perception.

 

 

Once we put new rotors on the issue went away completely. It is worth noting that the OB rode fine *before* ball joints were replaced - likely because the rotors were not disturbed from the day I put them on several years before that.

 

 

My rotors are not old, Centrics. May just try new OEM...

Edited September 10, 2021 by SubOperator

[SubOperator]

Any update from OP?

[busyychild]

Any update from OP?

 

 

Nothing to report as of now.

 

In the next few weeks I plan on doing one of the following to see if either improve the shaking.

 

1. New brake pad/rotors and caliper rebuild

 

Or

 

2. Swap my STI u-joint and whiteline steering bushings back to stock

 

I don’t plan on swapping out my Group N engine mounts back to stock. Being that the steering wheel shaking isn’t influenced by engine RPM (I get shaking in neutral while coasting between 60-80). So I don’t believe it to be the engine mounts.

 

Im not certain that the Group N trans Mount is causing the shaking. If the front axles could transfer vibration to the rack from the transmission.

 

I no longer have my stock sway bars/endlinks, so that’s a no-go

 

I may also see if I can find a Subaru specialty shop in the Boston, MA area to diagnose the issue. I don’t trust the dealers anymore to diagnose.

 

The only two shops I know of in the area are Boxer Motor Works in Salem and Motive Auto Works in Woburn, MA

[SubOperator]

OP, thanks for the update.

 

Your issue looks extremely similar to how my car behaves (2005 LGT with 239K).

 

I've had this problem for a few years now. 4 different sets of wheels/tires, including new ones.

 

I have rebuilt my original calipers, the issue went away for some time but came back shortly after.

 

This is what was done to the car with the issue present before and after the work:

 

- all 4 OEM calipers - new from the dealer, not rebuilt;

- 5MT to STI 6MT swap;

- new STI engine mounts;

- new bushings for tranny cradle, new 6MT mount (OEM STI);

- new rear diff bushings (OEM STI);

- new GTSpec ball joints and tie rods, replaced similar sets from GTSpec.

 

 

I have Kartboy endlinks front and back since 2009-ish, I do not think they are causing the issue. Also, my LCA bushings are OEM STI and in good shape. There is no play in suspension or steering. FSB (Perrin) and RSB (JDM OEM) busings are tight.

 

I have not touched brake hoses and they are originals. With 16 years on they are high on suspect list. I recall when the shaking occurs, if I step real hard on the brakes (as in braking to save my life) the shaking goes away for some time, but then comes back.

 

Shocks on the car are Bilstein HDs paired with STI Pinks, and they are getting up in age. I do not feel anything wrong with them tough and as of now do not think replacing them will correct the issue.

 

I did replace front wheel bearings few years back, there is no noise from them and the suspension was checked several times by few different shops.

 

To me right now there are 2 areas I will go after:

 

- front rotors, especially check for rust between the inner surface of the rotor and wheel bearing mating surface; may replace Centrics with OEM;

- replace front brake hoses. I have stainless ones in the box, may just replace the fronts and see what happens. I did bleed the brakes several times, bleeding brakes brings some temp relief but so far did not get rid of the problem completely. Hence I suspect front brake hoses swell on the inside and cause the calipers to bite a little. I did check the front rotors temps before with IR thermometer and they were fine, not sure if they cool enough by the time I stop.

Edited September 29, 2021 by SubOperator
double spacing again...

[ttnio]

i went with moog endlinks on the front, and group N control bushings on the lower fronts... almost as tight as new... no more front end end shake/wobble while braking going 45mph plus...

[busyychild]

Was under my car today and noticed that my Front Passenger side CV Axle inner boot was ripped and had spewed (some, most, all?) of its grease out on the garage floor. The Front Driver side inner boot is also leaking. (see photos)

 

I don't know how long it's been torn, but I'm guessing it gave up the ghost within the last 100 miles as I did not seen any leaks the last time I had it up on a lift or any grease on my garage floor.

 

A few Questions:

 

1. There is a little bit of play in all directions when I move both axles by hand. Is that normal? Could the torn/leaking boots be the cause of my steering wheel shaking?

 

2. How far/long can I drive with the passenger side CV Axle boot without grease and not cause further damage. I have an appointment with the dealer to take a look at it in two weeks (I'm picking my battles with this one, not wanting to do it myself)

.

Front Passenger Side Inner CV Axel Boot:

 

Front Drivers Side Inner CV Axel Boot:

Edited November 23, 2021 by busyychild

[SoobyDoobyDoo]

FWIW when I replaced the front axle in the wife’s Tribeca (stupid….) the shop didn’t replace the bearing (according to my former mechanic neighbor) but it did shake at 55+ on the interstate. Took it back and they fixed with a new one and no shake since. Maybe an issue with the axle or bearings?

[busyychild]

Update: Had another dealer look at it and the Tech identified that the front (summer) wheels were out of balance by 1oz each, but could not rule out the axles being the issue.

 

Since the axles had to come out anyways I opted to have them replaced with OEM.

 

I can report that I now have no vibration in the steering wheel. Confirmed this now with my summer and winter wheel setups.

 

So what ultimately was the cause of the vibration, unsure.

 

As a mitigating factor for future premature passenger side CV boot failure, I have a downpipe blanket. (Passenger side failed/ripped, driver side was leaking from the seal).

Edited January 3, 2022 by busyychild

[whitexc]

So you went with new OEM axles? How spendy were they if you don't mind us asking?

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

[shralp]

So you went with new OEM axles? How spendy were they if you don't mind us asking?

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

I paid close to $340 for my front right here in Bend at the dealership last month

[busyychild]

So you went with new OEM axles? How spendy were they if you don't mind us asking?

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

 

I did, was a difference of ~$500 between rebooting or replacing. YMMV though, I’d get in contact with your local dealer/specialty shop to hone in on a price