Rotors warp every two years or so

[computersoc]

Is there any brand of rotor that I can get more than 2 years out of? I've tried more expensive ones on Amazon that are twice the price of the cheap ones and I get the same life no matter what. It seems to be the fronts that are always the problem.

 

I don't put the car under any unusual braking or load. Rust seems to be getting my current ones which are very warped when I hit the brakes.

 

OEM lasted the longest at probably 4 years, then I've since changed out my front rotors twice (three times total). Current pad life is fine but the rotors are shot.

 

Also how many mm are my fronts? I see some 292 and 293 mm on Amazon and not sure the difference.

Edited May 28, 2021 by computersoc

[DrD123]

Have you tried just surfacing the rotors? Usually pedal pulsation is from pad material accumulation rather than warping of the rotors. You can use a brake rotor hone on a drill to dress the surface

[Scubaboo]

Yup it's pretty rare that the rotor itself warps or deforms, usually it's pad deposits.

[computersoc]

I'll bring it to my normal shop to try that. I was told by the dealer when I got the state inspection that it was rust and warping causing it, but they'll tell me anything to try and get a sale. Still passed inspection, but the shaking pedal when braking is annoying and there's a tiny bit of scraping noise.

[Plastixx]

I've used Raybestos Element3 rotors exclusively on multiple vehicles for years. Never had a warped rotor and the coating holds up pretty well to NY winters. The ones on my '09 Outback are getting close to 4 years and 50k miles.

 

Have your front calipers ever been replaced? I've had to replace them on both my OB and Legacy and my Legacy only has 76k miles on it. I went with new Element3 calipers. The OEM rear calipers hold up a lot better since they're aluminum. Haven't needed to replace a rear yet, just have to keep the bracket/pins well cleaned and lubed.

Edited May 29, 2021 by Plastixx

[dgoodhue]

You can inspect the rotors, unless the rotor surface is bubbling or flaking it is likely deposits.

 

Try hard braking from 60mph to about 20mph 3 times in a row to clean off the deposits. Do not come to complete stop. Once you do that continue driving a for a little while let the brakes cool down.

[boxkita]

if oem rotors last twice as long, why wouldn't you buy them again?

 

also stop and go driving does more to your brakes than racing. dgoodhue's suggestion is a good one. its how we "fix" at the dealership. Drive it, brake heavily a couple times but not fill stop, then drive around for 10 minutes to let them cool off, repeat until better.

[computersoc]

if oem rotors last twice as long, why wouldn't you buy them again?

 

also stop and go driving does more to your brakes than racing. dgoodhue's suggestion is a good one. its how we "fix" at the dealership. Drive it, brake heavily a couple times but not fill stop, then drive around for 10 minutes to let them cool off, repeat until better.

 

Not sure the cost difference between OEM and Amazon stuff. Figured OEM would still be pricier.

 

I will try the driving and braking tonight or tomorrow night and report back.

[computersoc]

Just did five sets of the 60mph to 20mph x3, then drive for 10 minutes. During set 4, I finally felt like I had some normal stopping power. No more pedal vibration. This solved my problem, thanks guys! Silly dealership.

 

One other note, we have unlimited car washes in my area (all you can wash for $20 or so per month). Does getting a car wash 4 or 5 times a week hurt the brakes or rotors if they're hot and I've been driving a lot before getting the wash?

 

Also, are the brake dust shields replaceable? They've caused some minor noise over the years.

Edited May 30, 2021 by computersoc

[nevets27]

I've used Raybestos Element3 rotors exclusively on multiple vehicles for years. Never had a warped rotor and the coating holds up pretty well to NY winters. The ones on my '09 Outback are getting close to 4 years and 50k miles.

 

Have your front calipers ever been replaced? I've had to replace them on both my OB and Legacy and my Legacy only has 76k miles on it. I went with new Element3 calipers. The OEM rear calipers hold up a lot better since they're aluminum. Haven't needed to replace a rear yet, just have to keep the bracket/pins well cleaned and lubed.

Weird. One southern Ontario winter and my element3 rotors rusted where the coating on the hats was.

[Plastixx]

Weird. One southern Ontario winter and my element3 rotors rusted where the coating on the hats was.

 

The rotors on my Legacy have been through one winter and look dull with white oxides, no orange yet. My OB has been through four winters and those are definitely covered in surface rust, but it's nowhere near as bad as uncoated rotors would be. Usually the outer edges and the cooling vanes would be flaking off chunks by now.

 

There's no winning in places with salted roads. I've tried many different coated rotors over the years. The worse ones have the black coating that just ends up flaking off entirely after one winter.

[computersoc]

Another update, I'd say it's 80 percent better. Stop and go driving (45-0mph) has no issues. I still feel a slight but definitely less than before pedal vibration when braking if I'm going from highway speeds to a slower stop like when getting off an exit (65-0mph).

[Scubaboo]

You could try one of those brake hones you attach to an angle grinder.

 

I actually bought one but havent had the time to try it out.

 

[Max Capacity]

You can inspect the rotors, unless the rotor surface is bubbling or flaking it is likely deposits.

 

Try hard braking from 60mph to about 20mph 3 times in a row to clean off the deposits. Do not come to complete stop. Once you do that continue driving a for a little while let the brakes cool down.

 

 

That process is called "re-bedding the brakes" it's a common fix for this issue.

 

I find that if I don't drive the cars hard during braking, both my cars will need the re-bedding process from time to time. I find the build up comes from trying to drive nicely when the GF is in the car with me.

[boxkita]

You could try one of those brake hones you attach to an angle grinder.

 

I actually bought one but havent had the time to try it out.

 

 

this is a scam. re-bed your brakes. problem will go away. if you really need to clean your rotors if pad material (?), take it to a brake shop and have them turn the rotors. You'll get like new rotors with no high/low spots (infinitely worse than any original problem).

[boxkita]

Just did five sets of the 60mph to 20mph x3, then drive for 10 minutes. During set 4, I finally felt like I had some normal stopping power. No more pedal vibration. This solved my problem, thanks guys! Silly dealership.

 

One other note, we have unlimited car washes in my area (all you can wash for $20 or so per month). Does getting a car wash 4 or 5 times a week hurt the brakes or rotors if they're hot and I've been driving a lot before getting the wash?

 

Also, are the brake dust shields replaceable? They've caused some minor noise over the years

yes they are. painful process especially if rust has taking root.

.

 

if your rotors are hot and you soak them in water you can cause issues. Although hot is relative term. if steam is coming off brakes while in shower, yer having a not good experience.

 

If you need a car wash 5x a week, I'd find an alternative route that had less salt. Also if you aren't cleaning & wiping off the underside after the wash, the multiple thing is doing more damage not less.

Edited June 8, 2021 by boxkita

[wrxwhit]

Look up DBA 5000 found on tirerack.com I believe. I have brembo front and rear with the DBA’s and hawk street performance pads and have been pleased with the setup going on 6 plus years now but only about 30k miles.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Scubaboo]

^good rotors, I have these and STI Brembos too. Not immune to uneven pad deposits unfortunately, I have deposits on them I need to clean up.