darthqwo Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 This car has had some strange issues since the past year, where previously i diagnosed a no-start issue with clicking as corroded positive terminal on the starter, but the issue now is that it doesn't even click. Recent context: It has sat most of winter without being started with a dying battery connected; it was so dead it came back from the test with 0 cranking amps and a free replacement. With this said i suspect the decreasing and low resting voltage might have caused issues while it sat. Troubleshooting: I tested the starter and the bolted positive connection and ground connections on it; these are good. There is no voltage coming from the solenoid connector, however. I . Still nothing. More symptoms: I moved the shifter into netural, and it now does not want to move back up to R or P, though i can move down to D and the + and - sport shift positions. i appreciate any insights, suggestions; omg thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bax004 Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 Have you tried wiggling the battery terminal connections? I’ve had cars that “look good” on the terminals but still had just enough corrosion inside to cause an issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthqwo Posted March 16, 2021 Author Share Posted March 16, 2021 Have you tried wiggling the battery terminal connections? I’ve had cars that “look good” on the terminals but still had just enough corrosion inside to cause an issue. battery posts are good; in fact i tested the starter (unbolted) on the solenoid connector with the positive bolted in place in other suggestions from threads, corroded grounding straps between frame and bottoms of heads on each side could be a possibility; one of them is brand new since before winter, and i can double check this but i doubt this is the issue other: with key at the 'on' position, most things seem to work: fuel pump, lights interior/exterior, chimes, dash; the tactrix cable is even able to read the rom from the ecu the security light stops blinking once the key is inserted; this means there is not a fault with the immobiliser system right? thanks: omg thanx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 I have to ask, is that large copper wire in good shape ? Last summer I replaced the starter in the wagon because that wire was failing. It broke after I played with it a little. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthqwo Posted March 16, 2021 Author Share Posted March 16, 2021 the wire is more or less similar in condition, but if that were the issue i don't think it would start spinning like a champ once 12v is applied to the solenoid connector; again this is unbolted from the bell housing. is it advisable to try to start the engine with the key in the on positionby manually applying 12v to the solenoid connector? is there a chance that this might be bad in case there are other faults? (it's possile the relays i swapped were also bad; possibly everythign is bad) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyOBS Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 sound like a dying starter. Not enough amp to go to the starter (at first) but also bad solenoid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthqwo Posted April 4, 2021 Author Share Posted April 4, 2021 (edited) I started trouble shooting with the manual in the section Diagnostics for Engine Starting Failure on page EN(H4SO)(diag)-70, and it fails at step 7 to check input voltage of starter relay at bulkhead connector B225 pin 15; there is no voltage when turning the key (for reference there is 12v on pin 13), and the solution it gives is to repair open circuit or ground short of harness between starter relay and ignition switch (for reference the prior step checks the ignition switch is good). I am wondering where to repair this. Given my prior issue with a wire, corroded wires are the likely culprit, but i wonder if it would be w wire on a different harness instead, for instance the manual lists the different harness: F front, B bulkhead, E engine, T trans, D door, I instrument, R rear, AB airbag, etc. So, i wonder if the ground short is not necessarily on the bulkhead harness but instead on maybe the front harness. Anyway i shorted the solenoid on the starter with the hot and started it up manually and was able to pull a code p0600; the below is my search for this. I was hesitant to do this for fear there may be other issues that could cause damage, but it started up and came up to temperature with mosty a smooth idle but eventually stalled from what sounded like fuel shortage. So, after starting up and coming up to temperature, it does not seem to want to start up again for a period even after disconnecting the battery; maybe this is a fail safe feature. The ABS and ESC lights are also lit, so these add to the issues mentioned but suggest there is a more common ground issue that encompasses all these issues if it is a ground issue. This seems to be mostly an unresolved problem over the years, as I found a number of cases on this forum: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cel-p0600-70665.html? https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2005-legacy-gt-p0600-and-car-stalling-help-261897.html https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cel-and-cruise-flashing-p0600-and-p0700-152006.html https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/code-po600-189872.html appreciate any insight omg thanx Edited April 4, 2021 by darthqwo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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