jagoulet Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 hi! I have a 1998 2.2 Legacy Wagon. It sat from last Fall until recently due to lack of driving needs. Last Fall it ran fine. Now it runs only on 2 cylinders. No surprise. The injectors seem to be held in by 2 Phillips screws. Can I remove them and clean them? If fuel is not delivered, does the computer turn off spark to the failing cylinder? Thanks! john - MA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 The two screws are pretty tight so be careful not to strip them. Once they are out you have to pry the injectors out. It is extremely easy to break them doing this. Some rotation first helps, but everything is a danger to breaking the injector tops. You could try getting the screws out and the cover off and then lightly tap the top of the injector with a plastic mallet while it is trying to run, but that probably won't do anything. If it does then you might be able to get away with running some injector cleaner through. The in tank cleaner won't do anything if no gas is flowing through the injector. It won't choose not to spark the non fueling cylinders as far as not sending the signal, but being wasted spark it is less likely to spark in plain air compared to fuel air mix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagoulet Posted March 11, 2021 Author Share Posted March 11, 2021 valuable information! What if I removed the entire rail assembly (including both injectors) and worked on getting cleaner of some kind to the injectors ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 That may help and would be a lot safer for the injectors. You can barely get to the tips that way, but if you can figure out how to push cleaner backwards from there while pulsing them quickly with a battery.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 (edited) are you getting any codes? Which two cylinders? Are you getting signals to the injectors? Wires good? Why do you think it's the injectors? Once the 12mm bolts are out, the injector should come up with the rail attached, as the hose allows movement. You have to remove all the bolts on the side you are working on to get the flex. If you need to remove them, use an impact screwdriver if available. If not, spray screws with PB first, set the driver and tap to break the tension. Then unscrew, make sure the driver fits the screw correctly. Pry gently on the housing and they will usually start coming up. Lubricate the o ring on install. There are a total of 3 o rings. One in the intake, one at injector tip and one on the top under the cover. If you damage the one at the tip, you'll have hell trying to get one to fit properly. O. Edited March 12, 2021 by Osei spelling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagoulet Posted March 23, 2021 Author Share Posted March 23, 2021 I got the screws out with a hand held impact wrench. Came out pretty easy. I got a pair of flat blade screwdrivers in beside the plastic injectors and pried them out. Came out pretty well. Codes said #1 and #3 are not firing. (plugs and wires pretty recent.) So I will soak them in injector cleaner for a couple days and see how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Check your coil. see attached. 1 & 3 are on the same side of the coil. FSM here:http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ignition coil and ignitor assembly.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagoulet Posted March 23, 2021 Author Share Posted March 23, 2021 I swapped out the coil pack and nothing changed. Would have been nice if that was it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Ok. Just for the hell of it, swap the wires from 1 & 3 to 2 & 4. Clear codes and start engine and see if codes return to 1 and 3. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagoulet Posted March 28, 2021 Author Share Posted March 28, 2021 Been working on it little by little. Have removed and cleaned all injectors. Good experience but no results. As of today, with it running and an inductive timing light, the front cylinders (1 and 2) do not fire. The rear do fire. The codes retrieved from the OBD-II system is consistent, 301 and 302. The plug wire for #2 shows a resistance of about 8K ohms which seems reasonable Not a very old wire. I swapped back the original coil pack and got identical results. I have not bench tested either coil pack per the uploaded procedure that one of you kindly provided. Car runs pretty good for 2 cylinders. Aside from testing the coil packs I am starting to feel whatever is wrong is not immediately under the hood. Which is a problem for me as I don't have any diagnostic tools I am aware of. Any thoughts? john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 Next is to check the igniter, which is on the firewall. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagoulet Posted March 28, 2021 Author Share Posted March 28, 2021 (edited) Can it be tested, or do you just swap it out? If I find a used one, is it sufficient to match up the "GB-003" that appears on it? There seem to be numerous other numbers as well. Edited March 28, 2021 by jagoulet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 It can,google may help. Don't remember procedure. Easy to grab one from a pick and pull if you have one near. Also pull your cam sensor and make sure it's not covered in grime. Had a similar issue years ago, but rough running. Turned out that the sensor wasn't getting proper signal because of the grime on the sensor. Is the timing correct? O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagoulet Posted March 29, 2021 Author Share Posted March 29, 2021 I will check out the cam sensor for crud. Timing: I only have 3 & 4 to go by . . . would either be of any use? It runs quite well for running on only 2 cylinders so the timing would seem ok (?) Am on the hunt for a replacement igniter. Can't hurt to own a spare anyway. Don't seem expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 Timing insofar as the belt still on or close to marks. O Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagoulet Posted April 3, 2021 Author Share Posted April 3, 2021 I bought a pair of 2nd hand Igniters for $13@. Just plugged one in. Fired up, sounded great and idled smoothly for the first time in ages. Believe that was it. Will go out and drive it later. Thanks for the education, guys! john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted April 3, 2021 Share Posted April 3, 2021 Good to hear that issues are resolved. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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