jagoulet

I agree . . . would rather replace the switch than go on a wire adventure hunt. thanks for your thoughts . . .

I got the wheel well opened up and good view of the washer pumps. Bottom line: if I swap the leads (front-rear) then the front pump works fine when I rotate the control arm on the steering column. Hence it seems there is no power being provided. The wipers come on fine with either setup. Do I need a new switch on the steering column? Swapping the leads got me thru the annual inspection, so I have plenty of time now.

thank you! much appreciated. john

hi! I have a 2009 Impreza hatchback with regular 2.5 L motor. The washer pump for the front wipers does not work. Wipers work. Fuse OK. Rear pump works, rear wiper works. Where is the pump for the front? (front wheel well?) Anything I need to know . . don't be bashful! thanks! John Mass

thank you!

So . . . after lots of checking . . . it seems like the bearing in the AC clutch is shot. Intermittent but pretty clear. This caused alot of current draw which killed the fuse. That said, does anyone have a source for a clutch rebuild kit for this car? (2009 2.5i) Seems to consist of a bearing and a couple snap rings. Maybe more. thanks! john

There is, from the wiring diagram, a "blower motor diode" said to be on the right side of the dash. Does anyone know exactly where this is? If it failed and was Open, no power would be available to the switch. Should be easy to test - passes current one way, no current the other. But where is it? (Does the switch provide power to the blower or does it ground out the circuit? )

If I'm reading the subaru parts diagram right, relay #1 and relay #4 are the same part number? So you could swap the blower relay with one labeled #1? Not sure why they have different #'s then.. I took them both out to swap but they (in my case) are physically different - pins and so on.

the fuse listing on the cover (by the driver's left knee) has "blower" as the 2 lower left fuses. I took both out and checked and they pass current. How does one get the lower cover off of the dash/instruments to get at any of this? Is the "Blower Fan Relay" in the box under the hood? (left side behind battery) (Later) I found a Youtube video where the guy locates and swaps out the motor-resistor. It is behind and to the left of the glove box. Not far from the blower. So I can remove this and bench test it with a multimeter. Now the guy in the video says position "4" is full voltage - no resistance . I don't believe position 4 works either (will double check). If not then I have to wonder if there is any power at that point. But that's getting ahead of things . . . (even later) got the motor resistor out. Pretty low tech. Gold pin and 3 silver. I tried resistance between each silver and the gold and found no open circuits. No signs of burnt windings. So now back at the switch itself for the fan. It has, to the lower left,rear window defrost, and to the lower right, air recycling. Also an AC button. NONE of those, when pressed, cause the little indicator lights to come on inside them. So I have to wonder if there is a single power source for that group of controls, and right now it's dead. Perhaps the fan not working is a symptom of a more general problem. I will try swapping those 2 relays. Thank you for all your assistance!

I got into it a bit. The blower is easy to get to, behind the glove box. I unplugged it, took a spare battery and jumpers, and it blows just fine. Meanwhile, with the key On and the switch for the fan in various positions, there is no voltage at the connector to the fan. Consistent. So that seems to leave me with the switch and the resistors (3). I am dubious as how 3 resistors could all fail at the same time , so the switch seems a real possibilitly. Getting the lower cover off looks formidable. Comments? thanks! john

this is great! the blower must be running for the AC to work. That doesn't happen. With the AC off, still nothing happening (could be defrosting the windshield hypothetically) Being able to bench test the motor is a big help!

thanks! So would you just replace both components and be done with it?

hi! The blower motor has stopped entirely. I checked the fuses (2 15A) and both pass a continuity test. So there is an open circuit? Some research shows a "resistor" so could that have failed? I get the impression that the motor can be removed if the glove box is removed. Any experiences or advice appreciated! John 2009 2.5 L Impreza - - normally aspirated hatchback

I bought a pair of 2nd hand Igniters for $13@. Just plugged one in. Fired up, sounded great and idled smoothly for the first time in ages. Believe that was it. Will go out and drive it later. Thanks for the education, guys! john

I will check out the cam sensor for crud. Timing: I only have 3 & 4 to go by . . . would either be of any use? It runs quite well for running on only 2 cylinders so the timing would seem ok (?) Am on the hunt for a replacement igniter. Can't hurt to own a spare anyway. Don't seem expensive.

Can it be tested, or do you just swap it out? If I find a used one, is it sufficient to match up the "GB-003" that appears on it? There seem to be numerous other numbers as well.

Been working on it little by little. Have removed and cleaned all injectors. Good experience but no results. As of today, with it running and an inductive timing light, the front cylinders (1 and 2) do not fire. The rear do fire. The codes retrieved from the OBD-II system is consistent, 301 and 302. The plug wire for #2 shows a resistance of about 8K ohms which seems reasonable Not a very old wire. I swapped back the original coil pack and got identical results. I have not bench tested either coil pack per the uploaded procedure that one of you kindly provided. Car runs pretty good for 2 cylinders. Aside from testing the coil packs I am starting to feel whatever is wrong is not immediately under the hood. Which is a problem for me as I don't have any diagnostic tools I am aware of. Any thoughts? john

I swapped out the coil pack and nothing changed. Would have been nice if that was it!

I got the screws out with a hand held impact wrench. Came out pretty easy. I got a pair of flat blade screwdrivers in beside the plastic injectors and pried them out. Came out pretty well. Codes said #1 and #3 are not firing. (plugs and wires pretty recent.) So I will soak them in injector cleaner for a couple days and see how it goes.

valuable information! What if I removed the entire rail assembly (including both injectors) and worked on getting cleaner of some kind to the injectors ?

hi! I have a 1998 2.2 Legacy Wagon. It sat from last Fall until recently due to lack of driving needs. Last Fall it ran fine. Now it runs only on 2 cylinders. No surprise. The injectors seem to be held in by 2 Phillips screws. Can I remove them and clean them? If fuel is not delivered, does the computer turn off spark to the failing cylinder? Thanks! john - MA

I got a multimeter and looked at voltages to all 4 plugs (to headlight elements) in both Hi and Lo beam position, left and right side. Voltages measured from the wiring lead that plugs into the element, to the Neg post on battery. The oddball is the 2 Left side leads to the Outside element in Hi beam mode. Voltage from red lead to ground: 11.54 from black lead to ground 11.1 But for comparison, on the Right side in Hi beam mode (which works fine): Voltage from red to ground 11.7 and from black to ground 0.03 In Lo beam mode the left and right outside leads all show near identical numbers but if I plug the elements in, the left side is dimmer than the right. Does any of this suggest anything? Have not found any grounds anywhere to be considered. Just the main one from the Neg post to the engine. Weds 11/11: you were right! I scraped a little off one of the black leads (GND) on the left side, ran a temporary jumper to the Neg post on the battery and . . . voila! Everything works fine! So I will solder a permanent lead onto the bare spot and run it to the body and we should be fine. Thanks!

If the Low beams are on, the left side is pretty dim, relative to the right. If the High beams are on, the left side is pretty much out entirely. You speak of a ground to the headlight. This is within the harness? The light assembly is all plastic so, unlike old cars, no ground is provided. Where are we physically talking here? thank you! John ps When Subaru powers a light bulb, or anything else, do they do it by grounding it out or by providing 12 V to it?

hi! I have a base model 2009 Impreza hatchback. 2.5 motor a) if I turn the headlights on, the left (drivers) side come but are faint, high or low beam b) with the headlights Off, the left directional works correctly c) with the headlights ON, the left directional blinks very rapidly but the bulb is very faint d) the hazard lights work fine; all bulbs bright. All things on the Right side work fine. Any idea what my problem might be ? Am guessing the switch on the steering column is bad - not a bad repair and not expensive. thank you john

horrible job . . .pulled on it with all kinds of things. Top finally broke off. Still no luck. O ring came out. Basically the body of the sensor was oxidized to the engine block. I guess 11 years did that. I finally took a thin, flat blade screwdriver, ground the tip a bit thinner, and worked my way around the shell, collapsing it inward until it broke free. So I'm home free, right? Nah. No such luck. The new one the Subaru people sent looks nice but is about .070" bigger than the old one. An adventure! thanks, everyone! John