chhalter Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 Howdy Folks, So I posted awhile back (link below) because I saw some minor overheating under heavy loads. Burbed the coolant to get air out of the system and everything was good for awhile. I think I overfilled because I would get the faintest coolant smell if I popped the hood after driving, but that subsided after the coolant level in the overflow settled just below full when at temp. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/engine-getting-hot-only-uphill-284073.html?t=284073 Fast forward to this morning. Very cold in the morning and on my way to get a window replaced (break in ) I noticed a faint coolant smell and then some steam rising from driver's side of the hood. This happened just as the car was getting up to temp. The steam and smell stopped within a minute but when I checked the overflow tank (driver's side not turbo) when I arrived at safelite the level was much lower than usual when at full temp. Topped it off for good measure, but baffled by the source of the leak. I searched the forums a bit and saw two things mentioned most often: leaking water pump, or bad clamps. I'm skeptical of water pump because I would expect that to be a more consistent and slower leak. I'm doing an oil change this weekend so I'll have the car up, should I change out some clamps or hoses? How do I check to see if the water pump is the problem? BTW I did a hydrocarbon test back in Oct and it came back negative so I don't think it's the headgasket. Anything helps! You guys rock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaasaiWarrior Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 Check for small cracks on the top of the rad, it's quite common for them to go. I had a rad hose go on me one time with a pinhole leak, it only showed itself when the engine temp was over 200 08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 When your under the car, use a good flashlight to inspect the bottom of things. You may be able to get a pressure tester from the auto parts store and put some pressure into the coolant system and see where it leaks. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pleides Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 Coolant pressure test would be your answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chhalter Posted December 2, 2020 Author Share Posted December 2, 2020 Radiator was replaced right before I bought the car (8K miles ago) so I'd be surprised if it were that. I'll be sure to check all the hoses and such when I get underneath. Looks like I can rent a pressure testing kit from my local autozone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chhalter Posted December 2, 2020 Author Share Posted December 2, 2020 Sounds like pressure testing kit is the way to go, I'll rent one this weekend and see where that leaves me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted December 2, 2020 Share Posted December 2, 2020 Check the overflow reservoir to see if it has a crack in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boneskid1 Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 I would check the hoses going into the side of the water pump housing. I think there is a total of two there, but that might depend on the year of your car. Mine had a leak from the clamp there and there was dried crustys from the dried coolant on the edge of the hose, hose clamp and the heatshield on the header. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackobxt Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 It wouldn’t surprise me if it was your radiator, even if it was replaced 8k ago. The interwebz is full of cheaply made $40 radiators that someone would use instead of the $160+ variant to just sell the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chhalter Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 Good to know, looks like the lower radiator hose where it enters the block so going to replace the hose and tube. Thanks for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chato Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Rubber contracts when it's cold. I'd double check all the hose clamps when the car is cooled off. This happened to me after a radiator change, it took a few retightening to get it all set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 Nothing beats new, factory spring clamps for coolant hoses. I had the same issue with worm clamps after replacing the radiator. It only leaked in the winter and would be okay for about a month or so after retightening. I haven't had the issue since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 Thing is the factory clamps don't fit some aftermarket hoses, they didn't work on the gates(?) hoses I bought, and I think I've read the same complaint with other hose brands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 (edited) Nothing beats new, factory spring clamps for coolant hoses. I had the same issue with worm clamps after replacing the radiator. It only leaked in the winter and would be okay for about a month or so after retightening. I haven't had the issue since. Curious if you replaced with the OEM spring clamps or the bent wire type that use a bolt to tighten. I have seen cars with both from the factory. I dislike the spring clamps because the lock tab is rarely able to hold the clamp in the open position. The worm clamp on my lower hose seems to loosen up every so often, like you mentioned. Edited December 8, 2020 by Underdog The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chhalter Posted December 10, 2020 Author Share Posted December 10, 2020 Sounds like the factory spring clamps are the way to go! Appreciate all the helpful comments, don't know how beat up my wallet would be without this forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 murray constant tension clamps. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 Oh I'm a dumbass, if it could be leaking clamps at the water pump, then ignore what I said above about clamps not fitting, I was talking about the upper and lower radiator hoses. I just went out to take some measurements to try and save you a potential headache. If you know you have subaru upper and lower radiator hoses, then you should be fine. The OD of my gates hoses at the top neck where the bump is, is 2". I still have my oem spring clamps kickin around and the biggest I could make them go is 1.88", and damn near lost an eye in the process haha. So even if you're good, I figure this info might help someone in the future. Assuming turbo spring clamps are the same as non-turbo, which I bet they are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chhalter Posted December 11, 2020 Author Share Posted December 11, 2020 Oh I'm a dumbass, if it could be leaking clamps at the water pump, then ignore what I said above about clamps not fitting, I was talking about the upper and lower radiator hoses. I just went out to take some measurements to try and save you a potential headache. If you know you have subaru upper and lower radiator hoses, then you should be fine. The OD of my gates hoses at the top neck where the bump is, is 2". I still have my oem spring clamps kickin around and the biggest I could make them go is 1.88", and damn near lost an eye in the process haha. So even if you're good, I figure this info might help someone in the future. Assuming turbo spring clamps are the same as non-turbo, which I bet they are. Nah you're good! It is the lower rad hose where it enters the block. Gonna wake up and tighten the clamp tomorrow AM to see if that's all I need to do before going in on a new lower hose. Appreciate the follow up though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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